Thread: Machining RM Double Roller?

What do i need the machine shop to do exactly so that the chain sits straight?

Edit: n/m ended up finding this video.http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ears-(pics-vid)

Edit again: grr the video doesnt work but i get the idea

Do you plan on running 130lb springs or higher?

If not, use a single chain.


And found this.

Little machining on the I.D. of the crank gear of the double roller, and some surface grinding on the oil pump cover, they work flawless.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Do you plan on running 130lb springs or higher?

If not, use a single chain.


And found this.

Yes im running 140s

Its the angle on the block side of the crank gear, it needs to be the same as factory.Had mine done,lines up perfect.Same distance off the block as the cam gear.

Originally Posted by goldgp

Its the angle on the block side of the crank gear, it needs to be the same as factory.Had mine done,lines up perfect.Same distance off the block as the cam gear.

Yea i figured it out but I should be able to just bring the dr crank gear and a stock one and any machine shop should be able to match them right?

You should be able too.Thats what I did.

That's the way I always do it. And it's a shame.. I just tossed out all the gears I had laying around, or I'd send you one.

I posted a blueprint in several of my dbl roller threads

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

I posted a blueprint in several of my dbl roller threads

Nice thankyou

Edit :Cant find anything link to your posts wont show. Mind posting a link?

found it couple posts down
hey Bill you might wanna copy that over here before club GP Goes Down the hole n loses it
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...key=&language=

I hate having to repeat myself and losing my information like the DHP forum with my 80e info...grrr

James.. if work wasn't blocking... lol.

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

I hate having to repeat myself and losing my information like the DHP forum with my 80e info...grrr

Sorry if im having you repeat yourself but after reading threw that entire thread.

So do i need to machine the chambfer and the the edge of the crank gear so it fits correctly aswell as the cam gear?

Also this is interesting... Im guessing this is bull****.

"Since I made this post, we've sold hundred of rollmasters. We have not had any fail, people are not machining them. We had custom front cover gaskets thicker than normal manufactured to give needed room and they'll be sold exclusively on the ZZP site shortly."

This is the set i recieved. Does this set look as if it has been modified from the original version to you? Cus it doesnt to me.

Directly from there website
US versions

Pontiac CS6141 CS6150 CS7000 CS7040 CS7050 CS7051

Red Series Red Series Red Series Red Series Red Series Gold Series

V6 V6 V6 198-231ci V8 403ci V8 287-455ci V8 287-455ci

SR DR DR DR DR DR

L36, L37 with 7 keyways L36, L37 with 7 keyways OddFire Turbo 7 Keyways with Nitrided Sprocket

Ausi Versions

Buick CS6141 CS6150 CS7000 CS7010

Red Series Red Series Red Series Red Series

V6 V6 V6 198-231ci V6 181-252ci

SR DR DR DR

L36, L67 L36, L37 OddFire Turbo 7 Keyways EvenFire 7 Keyways

yes that keyway chamfer should be 1/32nd past the tits of the keyways, and the recess'd pocket must be squared.
o
n the sets ive measured that recess is the correct ID at 1.810/812 but the ****ers use too large of a nose radius cutting tool so the corner must be squared or you need to spend an hour with a file radiusing the crank shoulder to match...

the cam gear is only ground and deburred. if you do not change the pocket depth, ive found the zzp/comp cams like between .022-.028 and the intense/cam motions tend to be a hair more at .024-.030 depending on yer production tollerances....even if you guess at .025 at most youll have 6 thou chain/sprocket misalignment...far better than the 14-28 thou ive seen with un modified sets...

ive been testing for years but i have two motors with dbl rollers...properly machined...with an un ground pump cover...and just 1 OEM timing cover gasket and i still have .020" pin clearance at the pump cover....with the chain slid all the way over towards it

now dont that sound like the way something should be assembled? lol

sure slapping it on works....its far from ideal but it works....i just think that a few extra dollars of machine work and a few more hours of time is well worth it with a 200$ insanely critical engine part...

regards, James

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

yes that keyway chamfer should be 1/32nd past the tits of the keyways, and the recess'd pocket must be squared.
o
n the sets ive measured that recess is the correct ID at 1.810/812 but the ****ers use too large of a nose radius cutting tool so the corner must be squared or you need to spend an hour with a file radiusing the crank shoulder to match...

the cam gear is only ground and deburred. if you do not change the pocket depth, ive found the zzp/comp cams like between .022-.028 and the intense/cam motions tend to be a hair more at .024-.030 depending on yer production tollerances....even if you guess at .025 at most youll have 6 thou chain/sprocket misalignment...far better than the 14-28 thou ive seen with un modified sets...

ive been testing for years but i have two motors with dbl rollers...properly machined...with an un ground pump cover...and just 1 OEM timing cover gasket and i still have .020" pin clearance at the pump cover....with the chain slid all the way over towards it

now dont that sound like the way something should be assembled? lol

sure slapping it on works....its far from ideal but it works....i just think that a few extra dollars of machine work and a few more hours of time is well worth it with a 200$ insanely critical engine part...

regards, James

Perfect thanks James. Im going tomarrow to a very highly rep. machine shop that builds drag cars and i printed out your instructions so he should be able to figure it out. Either way when this is done ill check alignment when i do the install.
Thanks again for all your help and hardwork.