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Just got back from getting the cat removed, as well as the U bend. Now the motor is knocking in higher RPM and smokes a bit when I finally do get it to start. I went and bought some Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil for a change, so I'll be doing that in about 10 minutes.
your gonna have a o2 sensor code pop next. you should look for a local to tune that code out for ya.
Either gonna do that or the spark plug fouler trick. Draining oil now, it's 25 degrees out and this is some really thin oil. It's barely thicker than water. I poured 2 more quarts of 5w and 10w-30 through it as well, to help rinse more out. I'm letting it drain for about 20 minutes, then I'll change the filter and put Mobil 1 in.
Oil changed, still knocking. upload video.
Well your day does get worse, which sucks.
Thats a rod knock for sure.
Hold it on the floor and video the destruction :D
No thanks, lol. I'm gonna try and salvage what i can from this motor and reuse what I can (after thorough inspection of course). Talking with some friends at work, we think it's a main bearing. SInce ti didn't run all that long wiht a knock, I might be able to get away without needing the crank turned. As far as boring it out, I hope I won't have to, but we shall see. The heads will get completely redone for sure, and I will most likely get a different cam, since the motor will be out of the car. Anyone have any ideas on which cam to get? I don't want anything crazy, but a power bump would be nice. Nothing to expensive either, of course, lol.
thats a rod knock for sure, not a main. mains seem to squeal like a stuck pig, and rod bearings rap. your crank will need to be cut for sure.
but then again, once you price out all the machine shop costs and parts, a used block is a lot cheaper.
s1x. Why not buy a jy motor?
GTP's are hard to come by out here, only N\A 3800. Is the difference in the heads or the pistons?
its all different, the n/a block is high compression, the sc engine is lower.
the sc heads have the injectors in them, where the n/a engine has then in the lim.
you can do a top swap, your heads, lim sc on the n/a block. you'll need some tuning tho.
The tuning would offset the savings of the NA motor then. If I can track down a S\C 3800 that'll be my route, but I'll have to find one first.
Probably going to call this guy tomorrow if I can find out the mileage on the enigne I might pick it up and give it a little refreshing before I drop it in.
1997 Pontiac Bonneville Supercharged SSE 4 door parting out
for 450, you can have the engine and trans, thats a steal right there. if the trans is good that is, being these cars like to kill a trans sooner or later, a spare is nice to have. especially if your thinking of cam'ing it.
you could un hook the engine and trans, drop the sub frame with the engine and trans still on it, then lift the car up and over the engine and tranny and frame. cherry picker will lift the car up enough.
depending on the ground your working a dolly or two would be good to drop the frame on, so you can drag it out from under the car, or swing the cherry picker and the whole car over.
Would the transmission work with my 2000? I haven't had a chance to sit down and read all about the different years of these cars and such, but I've seen a little bit on 1997s being a plague for Grand Prix's, what about the Bonneville? I figure on the engine I'd end up just using the long block with my accessory brackets and such, but what about the transmission? Will it be a plug and play replacement or will I need to repin a harness, swap solenoids, or any other major modification?
If the mileage is right, it didn't have any major problems, and he can wait til next weekend (working 6 days this week), then I'll be at least getting the engine.
you can mix match years no problem. may have to swap some external parts in some cases, but its all doable.
Okay, cool. Problem with this ad is the fact that I can't see the mileage or know if it even ran. He has no keys.
Called him a left a message just to see what he knew about it. Maybe I can get the VIN number and see what the last known mileage is at least. I called around to a Springfield JY and they can get me a 136K engine for $900. Even with "only" 136k, I'd still be putting new bearings in, new timing chain, all new gaskets (except maybe head gasket, if I can get a compression check from the junkyard), and most likely new valve seals.
no your not touching the bottom end, thats why your buying a used engine, these blocks last a long time 90% of the time if taken care of, and can handle the cam and other mods.
you open the bottom end up and its off to a machine shop and the same cost as rebuilding your engine, plus the cost of another engine.
if i were you, id get the other engine, get a pan, timing cover, rear main seal, and rear block gaskets, reuse your lim gaskets you just put in the other engine. and a new sc gasket. maybe new elbows.
put a cam and timing chain in, if you want, change the cam bearings. and some nice new lifters for the cam, thats it.
dont even think about doing the head gaskets either, leave them alone. they pretty much never blow, its just rare.
and i say if i were you, id do this,,,because thats my plan, but i want this all bought and ready to just swap my engine. im not doing this here and then later that crap, all at once. then i got a spare engine if its still runs when the time comes up. i'll just break the old one down and swap all the gaskets, and put it back together for later on. you know there will be a later on lol boom...