Thread: L26 or L32 block?

Well, my L67 is officially shot! Time to start the build all over again!

Just looking for opinions on the block... L67, L32 or L26? L26 WILL be top swapped!


BTW: If anyone is interested in an L67 motor, complete with valves smashed into the pistons, look no further!

L32 is supercharged btw, so what would you be swapping??

L32>L67>L36>L26. L26 has weaker rods than all the rest.

I'd vote an L32 swap.

How did you manage to pull that one off Nick?

Originally Posted by brandonl2000

L32 is supercharged btw, so what would you be swapping??

L32>L67>L36>L26. L26 has weaker rods than all the rest.

I'd vote an L32 swap.

I thought the l32 was n/a. Thanks for your input.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

How did you manage to pull that one off Nick?

Very carefully lol. I'm actually still trying to figure it out myself. Driving along perfectly fine then boom.

Wow! Just found your thread and Im definitely interested on how that one happened.

Originally Posted by JerzNick

I thought the l32 was n/a. Thanks for your input.

No problem.

Series II=L36, L67
Series III=L26, L32.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

Wow! Just found your thread and Im definitely interested on how that one happened.

Have a bunch of pics to upload. It's absolutely baffling. I'll update as I figure it out. So far, the only thing I can think of is a timing jump?!

I've never ever seen timing jump. That cam key looked pretty bad though.

I've got a good lower end here L67, only 205K miles when one valve kissed a piston. Looks perfectly usable.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

I've got a good lower end here L67, only 205K miles when one valve kissed a piston. Looks perfectly usable.

lol, I'll take it. What's your block preference Bill?

Well, I've heard L26 doesn't like boost. So that's out. L36 and the potential tuning of it.. ehhh L32/L67 would definately accept it pretty well.

Hence why I'm offereing you a good bottom end. There's barely a mark on the piston.

I thought you were joking about the engine, when you said the valve kissed the piston I thought you meant it was destroyed like mine. I'm thinking of just picking up an L32 junk yard motor.

The L32 is a direct fit correct?

Nope..the valve hung and got tapped. Which meant headwork etc. Or toss in $300 50K mile L26. Which I wanted an NA to begin with. .... it made sense. Since then, Max needed a cam key, so we pulled the timing cover off, then Max potentially needed a head, so we pulled those off. It's just chilling.

205k ?! Might not have much life left


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Or it might have 200K more left.... it's a 3800.


(yeah, I wouldn't either)

If you plan to mod the motor the L32 would be the way I would go, already have the GenV on it and more power than a base L67. Should just drop in iirc.

If not, the motor Bill has would be fine, 205 is nothing if its maintained properly.

Originally Posted by TLSheff

If you plan to mod the motor the L32 would be the way I would go, already have the GenV on it and more power than a base L67. Should just drop in iirc.

If not, the motor Bill has would be fine, 205 is nothing if its maintained properly.

Definitely going to mod the motor. I will never use comp cam lifters again… Thank you for your input.


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Originally Posted by brandonl2000

L32 is supercharged btw, so what would you be swapping??

L32>L67>L36>L26. L26 has weaker rods than all the rest.

I'd vote an L32 swap.

Are L32 RODS STRONGER THAN L67 RODS?

Yes

You can probably find a used L67 in good shape for cheaper than an L32. Both would be feasible with what you're shooting to accomplish.