Thread: could i run a 3.4 pulley with these mods?

I'd say your good to go.

Originally Posted by DnaProdigy

It is after the cat. It helps a bit if you are looking for a 3.4 but not much. beleive it or not the stock cat and mufflers are quite free flowing, some say moreso then aftermarket so in essence all you are really doing is deleting the ubend and res [performance speaking].

Cheepest way to run a 3.4 safely
1) Cai = Less then $60 if you make it yourself
2) PCM = $100
3) Plog = $120
4) Colder Plugs [104's] =$10
5) 180* T-stat = $10
6)3" DP = $140 bolt in offroad [no cat]. Get a used one MUCH cheaper, with cat for emissions.

Total = $380 is a cheep price to pay for a 3.4.

It can be done with less but this is a good estimate. Access to a scanner is a good thing to have also to see you Kr. Also if you plan on modding further get headers instead of the DP and plog. And a tuner instead of the PCM.

ok, now i must rant. I preach and preach about pulley's because i don't understand why everyone thinks putting on a smaller pulley is going to unleash a huge amount of hp.

Do any of you understand WHY we put smaller pulley's on our cars? With some of the answers i've seen here i'm assuming you don't. When you put mods such as... intake, headers, rockers, plugs, on our cars it makes our engine's more efficient. Moving air through the motor more efficiently while the blower is still spinning at stock speed will cause boost loss. The exact same amount of air is still getting rammed through the motor but now it's being done so easily there is an on average loss of about 3-5psi depending on numerous things. Then we put on the appropriate pulley to spin the blower fast enough to get about stock boost maybe a little more. If you spin the blower to fast you'll start boost stacking and without an i/c you're asking for trouble.

Why? Well the m90 isn't very efficient since it pressurizes the intake charge in the intake manifold and puts out A LOT of heat. Running a pulley to small for the supporting mods is going to cause the car to boost stack, and that causes a lot of heat, which in turns leads to detonation. I know all of you guys get all your information from all the vendors and that's what they say is needed to run a 3.4 pulley. Yea, they are right, that's the minimal needed to run a 3.4 pulley. Are you going to get kr? Yep. Another thing that ticks me off is people that think its ok to have 1-4* of kr... why would that be ok? Because everyone else has it? Everyone else has it because everyone else is running a 3.4 pulley with intake, dp, plog, plugs, and a pcm. I guarantee 8-10 cars running a 3.4 pulley with those mods gets kr, which does nothing but slow the car down. Timing in these cars is everything, hence why everyone with comparable mods that i have is running mid 13's and slower.

Another reason why having your own tuner is a must, so you can tune YOUR car, and not let someone else guess what you need. mail order pcms are a waste of money imo. I'd rather save the 400 more dollars and do that **** myself. I'm acquiring another gtp soon and it's going to remain completely stock and i'm going to prove that i can take a stock gtp further than most of the 3.4 pulley guys have taken their setups. If you are running a correct 3.4 pulley setup you'll be mid 13's all day long, IF CORRECTLY DONE. I ran a 13.2@105 on a 3.4 pulley correctly tuned with absolutely no kr on 85* day. I use myself as an example because it seems like i'm the only one that understands what pulley's are for.... Boost doesn't make power without an i/c!!!

FUEL>SPARK>BOOST in that order. First you get your fuel right, then you run the correct amount of timing, all with no kr, then and only then to do you run a smaller pulley.

So to answer this question, there is no way that anyone can tell you what size pulley you can run. The only way to know is to scan your car and find out for yourself. I'll be willing to bet you have kr right now at the end of a 3rd gear pull on said mods and a stock pulley.

Take it as it is, but i'm sick and tired of seeing 3.4 cars running high 13's and still trapping in the double digits. Those same cars would probably be faster on a stock pulley and when i acquire another gtp soon i will prove a stock one correctly tuned is faster than the vendors "safe" 3.4 setups. Sorry again for the rant.

Originally Posted by DnaProdigy

As i already said, a scanner is a good thing to have to check for Kr, maybe more emphasis on the good. I have one so i guess i under emphasize the importance.

I agree 100% with what you are saying. But do you realistically, think that people asking "can i run a 3.4 with my mods and no Kr" and "is the u-bend before or after the cat" are going to spend $400+ [$600 for a HP] on a tuner just to see results after they learn how to use it flawlessly? [No offense to said posters, ya gotta learn sometime]. Learning a tuner, correctly, takes more time then people care to spend, the appeal of instant gratification is too great.

People want cheep easy mods for their car. Parts less then $100 that they have to remove/replace a few bolts to put on. You can tell people on here till you are blue in the face to buy a tuner and learn how to use it but they rarely will. Dropping pulleys sounds too appealing to reason with for some. Best you can do is list sporting mods to combat the inevitable Kr that will come with a 3.4. As i said in my first post , no way hes running 3.4 with his mods and no kr.

We i did quote you, which wasn't me attacking you (sorry if it seemed that way) but I just can't stand people that think pulley's make hp. The stuff you listed is just not enough. The vendors imo are wrong, i don't care how long they've been in the game their "safe" setups aren't safe at all. 90% of people that follow their stupid guidelines have at least one post each asking about how to get rid of their kr.

Minimal you need, intake, headers, rockers/cam, to run a 3.4 pulley efficiently. If those were the supporting mods and that car was running a 3.4 pulley the mail order tune could be way more aggressive and actually make a difference. But no the vendors refuse to change their list of "safe supporting mods" because they keep assuming that people following this stuff know what they're doing. IMO they just do that so you come back and buy more **** you don't need (i.e. headers after ordering a plog and dp because they're better, or a 3.6 pulley because the 3.4 you just bought is to small) to replace the stuff you already bought.

It's bullcrap, too many people are mislead to this and after they purchase what they think is enough to run a 3.4 pulley setup they find out now they need even more stuff to keep their car free of engine damaging kr. I just don't get it, i see it over and over and over and nobody does anything about it. I'm only 1 person, there's only so much i can do to help prevent this ya know? I also hate the tards that say its ok.... AHH!! It's not ok, if you don't have a correct answer to give someone DON'T GIVE IT. This guy is asking because he doesn't know, then you idiots tell him it's ok so he assumes its ok and does it. Sure enough he'll post up sooner or later wondering why his car is so slow. It's because of you morons, shut up if you don't know what you're talking about. If you think you know what you're talking about then you would have told him that wouldn't work instead of "sounds ok to me" yea i'm talking to you people...

yep you make the engine move the air so much more efficient now the blower has to spin even faster to keep up the same amount of boost as stock. The mods you have now might be able to support a 3.5 but you gotta scan your car first. Look for lean conditions and of course knock aka kr. lean conditions are o2's running lower than 920, and any knock is bad. The best way to scan like mentioned before on the first page is putting your car under the highest load you possibly can and gun it. 3rd gear pulls are going to be your highest load on flat surfaces, and if you can run uphill in 2nd if it's steep enough it'll work. When you do the third gear pulls let off the throttle before it shifts into 4th. Its the weakest gear in the trans and you will destroy it if you are at wot while in the gear.