Thread: TOGs installed.

I have been meaning to post these pictures and video for a little while, but work has been hectic to say the least. I want to first thank Brian (Reptile), Jay (Abrasive) and last but not least Nick (Lolo on the KC Boards and Blue something here) for their efforts last weekend when I was down in KC! They worked their arses off to help me get these puppies on.

A couple things I want to mention, TOGs are not fun to install And the position of the collector O2 Sensor position has to be one of the dumbest I have ever seen. Jay had to fashion me a new 02 Extension wire cause it was the one thing I forgot to purchase. Well needless to say after all was said done I start throwing codes on Tuesday this past week. 02 sensor codes and another one in relation to the cat. I cleared them once to see what would happen, but they came back. I am using the SLP Cat, I decided against going Catless (I wanted to be somewhat legal). I was checking all the lines and sensors and found this.



Needless to say it got to close the collector and collector kindly ate the new O2 Extension that Jay created. So yesterday I had to cut out the burnt/melted area of the line and resplice the wiring. That was a lot of fun laying under the car cause I could not get the O2 sensor out with the available tools I had. So it took some time but I got it back together and so far since then no codes have flashed since.

Here are some videos of the car. The first is without a cat at Jay's house, the other is with the SLP Cat installed and the last one is a fun one







And some other pictures of the TOGs.











The STOCK downpipe



The SLP Cat installed.



And the install would not be complete without some blood



Thanks again to the KC Crew!!!

hope they work well for you. i hated installing my TOGs when i had them and i hated how i could never get them to seal. but they were warped at the flanges from people not installing them correct before me.

i love my s&s though.

Originally Posted by Bio248

hope they work well for you. i hated installing my TOGs when i had them and i hated how i could never get them to seal. but they were warped at the flanges from people not installing them correct before me.

i love my s&s though.

Yeah the TOGs were bought used from Lowlyfe, so I know they were in good hands! And I got new ZZP Metal Doughnuts and we used RTV to help make sure they kept a good seal. I tightened up the bolts on the crossover after they had been run for about week to make sure things were good and sealed.

So far so good I think, I could smell RTV burning for a couple days, but now its not even noticeable, or I have just gotten use to it? But I dont smell much if any exhaust at all from the headers. I will probably try to tighten them up again soon to make sure they are nicely settled in.

Originally Posted by GeddyLee

Yeah the TOGs were bought used from Lowlyfe, so I know they were in good hands! And I got new ZZP Metal Doughnuts and we used RTV to help make sure they kept a good seal. I tightened up the bolts on the crossover after they had been run for about week to make sure things were good and sealed.

So far so good I think, I could smell RTV burning for a couple days, but now its not even noticeable, or I have just gotten use to it? But I dont smell much if any exhaust at all from the headers. I will probably try to tighten them up again soon to make sure they are nicely settled in.

USED RTV??!?!?!

I think if there is a "over-used" section...we could put up pics there

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

USED RTV??!?!?!

I think if there is a "over-used" section...we could put up pics there

Bite your tongue!!!

Originally Posted by GeddyLee

Bite your tongue!!!

LOL...gotcha BISH

I think we used enough RTV for at least 20 header installs on a Honda though...no joke!!

10 hour header installs FTMFL!!!! I did have to say that thing sounded BADASS when we first started it...I need to post the cell phone video I took when we first got it...sounded like 3 kids at Christmas LMAO!!

BTW...TOG DP's...F THAT!! Never again lol

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

10 hour header installs FTMFL!!!! I did have to say that thing sounded BADASS when we first started it...I need to post the cell phone video I took when we first got it...sounded like 3 kids at Christmas LMAO!!

BTW...TOG DP's...F THAT!! Never again lol

You know you want a set Nick

I think after this one, any other TOGs install will go easier

HAH...and I just noticed my car is in the background of the 1st VID

just wondering if you get them all sealed up, what you used and how you did it..

Originally Posted by blowfishRus6

just wondering if you get them all sealed up, what you used and how you did it..

When we did my Pacesetter install, we used a metal copper gasket from Slow'Reilly's so the DP could bolt up to the exhaust pipe. We also got stonger bolts and instead of using the paper gaskets they give you...we just RTV'ed the scheet out of 'em.

As of now I have a small exhaust leak right where it was welded to my 3" custom setup...but I think it is leaking from the weld...NOT from the header install

aight thanks man. so i guess rtv is gonna be my friend.

Originally Posted by blowfishRus6

aight thanks man. so i guess rtv is gonna be my friend.

The hardest part was getting the y-pipe clamped and sealed. I just bought 2 band clamps from NAPA, which we welded the bolts to the clamps so I didn't need 2 wrenches in there to tighten them. I used half a tube of RTV on both pipes, slipped the clamps over and pounded it up into the crossover and rear header. Then I busted up my hands trying to tighten them, took a lot of force for a loonnnnggg time to tighten each bolt. Then it took another 4 hours to try and put a custom exhaust in there with the resonator and cutout. It would have been nice to have the stock catback in place but the previous owner put some stupid **** in.

ahhh. sounds like i better start this on saturday just in case i have to roll over to sunday. i tried one time but on my 04 the front header hit the radiatior fan. good thing i dident get it on tho, would just have to take it back off to fix the leaks. atleast now i know

Originally Posted by silverbullet

you need to xp cam it now!

Ahemmmmmmm

No?

Why no? Well for the simple fact the car is still 3 years away from being paid off, and its my daily driver. Though the thought of running a nice XP Cam or VS cam sounds good in all, I just dont want that in a DD. Maybe in a couple of years I will change my mind or least until I can procure a beater DD, then maybe I would consider it

The only problem I am having with the new setup is that I keep getting P1133 codes. Even after fixing the melted wiring I am throwing that code, I clear it and it just comes back. From what I have looked up for the P1133 code for our cars is that due to the very high flowing SLP cat, the sensor basically cant keep up with the flow of exhaust out off the TOGs and through the cat.

Any other input would be great! I am not running it hard till I figure out that issue, besides my tune is such a mutt right now, and with the 1.9m rockers and now the TOGs, the car really has not been properly tuned to match up that configuration.

James, with a hi flo cat the code for the post cat O2 sensor may be set. It appears the one you have is for the front sensor.

Here is the info for the p1133.

The heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) is a sensor designed to create a voltage relative to the oxygen content in the engine exhaust stream. The control module supplies the HO2S with signal high and low circuits. Ignition voltage and ground are supplied to the HO2S heater by independent circuits. The oxygen content of the exhaust indicates when the engine is operating lean or rich. When the HO2S detects that the engine is operating rich, the signal voltage is high, and decreases the signal voltage as the engine runs leaner. This oscillation above and below the bias voltage, sometimes referred to as activity or switching, can be monitored with the HO2S signal voltage.

The HO2S contains a heater that is necessary in order to quickly warm the sensor to operating temperature. The heater also maintains the operating temperature during extended idle conditions. The HO2S needs to be at a high temperature in order to produce a voltage. When the HO2S reaches operating temperature, the control module monitors the HO2S bias, or reference, voltage. It also monitors the HO2S signal voltage for Closed Loop fuel control. During normal Closed Loop fuel control operation, the control module will add fuel, or enrich the mixture, when the HO2S detects a lean exhaust content. The control module will subtract fuel, or "lean-out" the mixture, when the HO2S detects a rich exhaust condition.

Certain vehicle models utilize an oxygen sensor behind the catalytic converter in order to monitor catalyst efficiency.

This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) determines if the HO2S is functioning properly. It checks for an adequate number of HO2S voltage transitions above and below the bias range of 300-600 mV. This DTC sets when the vehicle control module (VCM) fails to detect a minimum number of voltage transitions above and below the bias range during the test period. Possible causes of this DTC are:

An open or a short to voltage on either the HO2S signal or HO2S low circuits
A malfunctioning HO2S
A problem in the HO2S heater or its circuit
A faulty HO2S ground
This DTC is designed to detect an HO2S that produces too few lean to rich and rich to lean signal transitions within a calibrated time window.


Conditions for Setting the DTC

The number of lean-to-rich and rich-to-lean transitions within a 100 second sample period were less than a calibrated number.


Action Taken When the DTC Sets

The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) if a failure is detected during 2 consecutive key cycles.
The control module sets the DTC and records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic failed. The failure information is stored in the scan tool Freeze Frame/Failure Records.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL or DTC

The control module turns OFF the MIL after 3 consecutive drive trips when the test has run and passed.
A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles. A warm-up cycle occurs when the coolant temperature has risen 22°C (40°F) from the startup coolant temperature and the engine coolant reaches a temperature that is more than 70°C (158°F) during the same ignition cycle.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Common failures that can cause this is the oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1 for a v6 or the sensor 1 on a 4 cylinder or the associated wiring. Again the class2 scan tool will be needed to properly diagnose this. Feel free to contact me with any questions or if you would prefer a second opinion. Good luck!