I meant using L32 Rods with L67 pistons, thats possible right, anything else I would have to use from engines if I do go with an L36?
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I meant using L32 Rods with L67 pistons, thats possible right, anything else I would have to use from engines if I do go with an L36?
just keep your bottom end. why are you going to pour money into a FWD car? Build an LS motor. or keep your bottom end a put a M90 on it. turbo and trans comes out to 10grand or more, so not worth it in a GP. im into my car now for less than 2grand, and it goes high 13's. it can be faster with a better 60' time. you want turbo and wanna go really fast buy an EVO/STI, dont waste money on this platform
Well considering that an evo or sti is like 20 grand and I bought my car for 4 and its mint, plus I like it anyways. Add mods too a evo/sti and its way more money.
This situation all depends on preference. If you like mechanical work and have well above average mechanical experience and a ton of time on your hands then go for the rebuild. The outcome, a fast car and the feeling that you are responsible for all of your alterations. Some people have fun working their car, its a relaxing hobby sometimes. If this is you then go for the project and we will be glad to help. Just KNOW this will most likely be harder and more costly then you think.
If all your really concerned about is going fast then their are cheaper and more time efficient ways to do so. A Lancer Evolution runs 13's stock i believe the mid to high 13's if were talking about an 08. I could be wrong but i would imagine it taking more then $1500 to drop 3 seconds in the 1\4 mile.
Last edited by DnaProdigy; 08-21-2008 at 03:27 PM.
Yeah, I know. I calculated pretty much everything, and it is ALOT!!! But oh well, I might not have it done for 2 years, but thats alright. I'm in college now and just work and school. I need something to do on the side.
dont spend your money like its going out of style if you have school to pay for. ive been broke for going on three years now because of this thing.
and who knows, maybe youll move on and want something else.
Yeah, I don't think I will do the bottom end just because, maybe pick up some used heads and bring them to my friends shop to get them ported and such. I wish I could get an evo or something, too bad the insurance on them is ridiculous. When I went to Ohio Tech, there was a kid there from New Jersey, stock on the I-480 we were doing 140 with 5 people in the car, blowing away some srt-4 with mods, I hate neons but that one was really fast. Kid in a supra womped our ass though, I would get that out of all of them. But anyways...he had the last evo 9 limited edition or whatever brand new, paid like 43000 after everything. Under his mom's name, his insurance was 250 a month.
He's not saying a L26 is more reliable than a L36, just that the factory build of the bottom end is much more reliable than any rebuild. Just can't do it as good as it was the first time.
If I had the choice, I'd get a 05+ L26 (04 L26 uses the same rods as L36) long block and replace the TB/fuel rails with L36 variety so it's compatible with your car. Then do what you want with it.
Reptile is right that Series III has larger valves on the exhaust side (if memory serves).
Got a friend of mine here in Liberty building a turbo SE...he is gonna go with a GT35R for his build...since him and the guy in my sig (TT Cobra) are both doing turbo upgrades at the same time they are buying 3 from Garrett and saving money...he told me he is shooting for no less than 600 WHP...GT35R, Diamond Pistons, Forged Rods, Stage 3 Cam, Custom Heads, Custom Turbo Manifolds...25psi...just kinda itching to see what all it is gonna do when he gets done, he told me that he wants consistant 11's...seems doable![]()
thtas nice, lemme know how that turns out
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