Thread: Taz's Offical Summer/Fall build list.

Originally Posted by dmahlikGT

Its comin along good man. Isnt today your deadline lol

I extended the deadline lol even if it was done 2 days ago I would'nt want to drive it to Kc so soon and I'm tired of rushing things and not getting done all that I want to. I really don't have much to do now just put the heads on a little bit more wireing and thats it oh and vaccum line stuff.
some questions I got tho

42.5lb injectors how do they go in? do conector sides stick out towards you or towards the sc? and are they like really hard to press down in there?

then also what do I do to get coolant back into stuff I feel like just filling up the rad and resivor and waiting for the pump to suck it down isn't the best way? should I fill up the LIM from the t stat houseing and then fill up the hoses the best I can ontop of that?

also is it safe to start without the sc belt to check if it runs and if anything leaks?

and what signs should I look for for leaks and stuff? other than the obvious stuff?

Use vaseline on the inj. o-rings and pop /clip them onto the fuel rail. I would just leave the connectors facing away from the supercharger. Tuck the inj. harness behind the rail if you want it clean. You can always unclip them and rotate them while it's still bolted down, given you put some vaseline on so it doesn't rip an o ring.

The intercooler system, you want to fill that up with your T fill or fitting. Lift the hose up or at your highest point or where you put the breather cap on and start filling. Just alternate filling that and the car radiator until things seem to be full. Open the breather up on the t-stat and start the car, once it runs through the breather tighten it back up. Sometimes it helps to jack up the front of the car and do this. After a few cycles of that and topping off the IC system, it should be free of air.

x2 on the vaseline on the injector o-rings. as for coolant, i was told to fill the radiator, unscrew the bleeder screw on the t-stat housing, and start the car, adding coolant until you see a steady stream coming out of the screw. and it's fine to start without the sc belt

Originally Posted by FoSHO99

Use vaseline on the inj. o-rings and pop /clip them onto the fuel rail. I would just leave the connectors facing away from the supercharger. Tuck the inj. harness behind the rail if you want it clean. You can always unclip them and rotate them while it's still bolted down, given you put some vaseline on so it doesn't rip an o ring.

The intercooler system, you want to fill that up with your T fill or fitting. Lift the hose up or at your highest point or where you put the breather cap on and start filling. Just alternate filling that and the car radiator until things seem to be full. Open the breather up on the t-stat and start the car, once it runs through the breather tighten it back up. Sometimes it helps to jack up the front of the car and do this. After a few cycles of that and topping off the IC system, it should be free of air.

that reminds me the clips don't really hold the injectors onto the rail their on there if you tug on them they pop off

The clips aren't heavy duty by any means, you're actually just supposed to push in on them to release the injector, you can see the lip/groove on the injectors that the clip is supposed to ride against to keep from popping out. Once everything is clipped in, you can take your time putting the rail on, aligning injectors with holes, and start securing them. Once the rail is bolted down, the injectors won't really have anywhere to go. Take your time and don't force anything.

headers on, oil changed and car is off the jack stands seems so low lol... Does the alternator brace go back on? I don't reall see a way for it to go back on

No thats stage one weight reduction.

not necessray. i couldnt find a spot for it either. or all the engine pull brackets for that matter

Alternator bracket...both engine pull brackets...ABS bracket...need I go on? All those dumb things need to come off.

Got a few questions here



this sucker has always just hung out next to the alternator pluged into nothing but I think it plugs into


the little black thing on the fuel rail

and any reason I shouldn't just chop off this connector and solder the wires together? just trying to get all the extra wire and bulkiness out of there




also this thing on the fuel lines, does it stay or go?


and I forget where I unpluged this guy from I know its around the bottom on the passenger side somewhere


Heres pretty much what its going to look like I already ran all the wires except the front injectors and their running over from the passenger side now

what did you drop on your big toe?

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

what did you drop on your big toe?

a laptop fell and I stuck my foot under it to catch it and break its fall which I did but it hit it on its side and hurt a lot for something that weighs 5lbs that happend back in July lol

so vaccum lines... I think I have 1 of them and thats it...

the thing on the fuel line is part of your evap system, it stays. and the last sensor is probably a crank or cam position sensor. it acts like it won't reach, but it does. feel around down there a little bit. as for vac lines, one gets ran from the map sensor to a T on the end of the lim, and the other end of that T goes to the... evap thing i mentioned if i remember right. and after that it's supposed to go to the bbv and then to the throttle body. there's a nice diagram in my build thread

Originally Posted by Poil336

the thing on the fuel line is part of your evap system, it stays. and the last sensor is probably a crank or cam position sensor. it acts like it won't reach, but it does. feel around down there a little bit. as for vac lines, one gets ran from the map sensor to a T on the end of the lim, and the other end of that T goes to the... evap thing i mentioned if i remember right. and after that it's supposed to go to the bbv and then to the throttle body. there's a nice diagram in my build thread

yea I saw that in your thread so do I just go and buy some vac line and make my own or what?

you can yes

yeah, i think i picked up like 6 feet and some vacuum T's. it doesn't look pretty, but it works

On the alt bracket. I use the 99+. Yeah..I do.

heck..had a 2.25" IC on the Bonne and still used it. Just egged the hole out a bit.

awesome thing about moving the fuse and relay box inside is that aftermarket wiring other stuff is super easy now

Did you figure out your other plugs/vac lines then?

The one pictured by the BBV is the bbv solenoid, usually if you unplug the connector to this it limits the car to 4-5psi. I would definitely have it hooked up along with the vac lines, there will be one open vac port to free air on that, I'd have to double check which one.

The other is evap like said above, you can disconnect this an cut/plug the vac line coming from the firewall. Make sure it stays plugged. Paul will have to delete the codes from the PCM. Paul is pretty handy with this stuff as well if you have questions.

figured out all the plugs just need to do vac and fuel lines and all idlers and tensioner