Thread: Engine wont start

97 gtp is not starting, i just got done swapping my mods in with S1X and it sounds like it wants to go but doesnt. i have a video of it.


Car :: IMG_11411.mp4 video by Hixchris - Photobucket

it really dont sound like it wants to start to me. its not giving any kick that i can see or hear.

have you checked to see if the plugs are getting wet?

recheck plug wires are on the right plugs, im sure you did that 2 times already but in case you didn't, any vac lines off? and all electrical plugs are back where they belong?

all it takes is one thing not back on and, well you know.

Plugs are wet, and spark is there.. Could I have installed rockers wrong? I did 11 pouds plus 90 degrees. My brother said I had to align TDC with each rocker before I torque. Which I didn't, does it matter? I torque them all withought spinning the crank.

My coolant temp sensor wire is disconnected, does that matter? We can't find the wire on the harness to plug it in. Doesn't make sense to me

you check the crank and cam sensors? put them back on right? are they new or old, did you clean them up real good if old? and clean the HB back side?

and im not sure of the torque on the rocker bolts, 11 sounds low, but it should have still started even if the rockers were clapping all over the place.

coolant temp sensor shouldn't matter.

seems like a bad sensor or down them lines.

Confirmed that on cylinder 1 both valves are closed on TDC. I know the timing is right. It's getting spark, and it's getting plenty of gas, because plugs are wet. Compression is good. All vacuum lines are in And I double checked the wiring, seems good. Sounds like backfire from the intake like every 5 seconds of cranking.

popping through the intake is always a timing problem.

Would 1 tooth off mean no start? I've triple checked the timing before putting it back together. Because I knew how much of a pain it would be to rip apart if it wasn't. My brother also checked to. Both teeth line up, balance shaft and cam sprocket marks are lined up. I remember the cam key being in the 4 oclock position when doing this, and there is nothing bent as far as rods go. Nothing hits. We took a plug off and it was loaded with gas, and there is ignition spark, and hptuners scanner says it's commanding 11 degree timing to start it. Is there anything else I could monitor? I also replaced MAF sensor. It cranks really fast, sounds like it should.

Pull the plugs and dry them. Use a compressor if available to dry the cylinders. I'd suggest leaving the plugs out overnight. You are getting an occasional pop which makes me think of how tough it is to start a car with soaked plugs.

Tough to say from the vid w/o being there, but there's a little noise I'm not fond of. Can't put a finger on it, know what I mean.

Did you take a picture of your timing dots lining up? If so, please post it. If not, it's normal, but you can hate your self not doing that one pic.

Check to ensure the crank sensor is plugged in securely. If you have an inspection mirror, check that the pins didn't bend. Check the connector to the ICM. it should be snug. Did you unhook the pcm when doing all of this? if you did, check that connector as well.

Rocker bolts are probably to spec. I assume you used new factory bolts and not reusables?

Will check the crank sensor tonite. I'll post another vid. No I didn't take pic of dots, but we are positive they lined up. But we have the reusable rocker bolts and torqued them to 11 + 90degree, and I just found out there supposed to be 23 degrees. So would that make a difference if it's not starting. How much work is needed to take the back Valve cover off? I also tried starting fluid and also sprayed down in the LiM vacuum line below the snout to see if it would go, and it didn't. It did start for 1/2 a sec and then it stopped.

Consistency is more important that exact torque. As newbies we like to always say torque specs are the most important because ... we don't understand the feel of the right torque.

11 plus the degree probably has you at the right basic torque. FWIW reusables are supposed to be 23 or 25 ft lbs.

That's not going to cause your issue though. BTW was the valve missing out of your compression gauge because you used it for airing up the cylinders to to the springs?

Nope, I carefully did it with the TDC at each piston when I did the springs. No air. I took the front valve cover off and nothing looked damaged. I just dunno

question... what does the crank sensor use to pick up the signal on the crankshaft? is it a magnet or wheel? i only put a sensor in the sprocket hole for the camshaft.. maybee i missed the crank sensor as well?? the wires are tight, we will check that tonite.

You should have had a bolt issue if you didn't use the crank sensor.

Without sensor


With sensor


Shield in place


Balancer with interupter rings that the sensor reads

ill check this all out within 2 hours, ill post back with pics and vid!

checked the crank sensor and it looks good. i took some pics, and i have a vid of it trying to crank over. when we disconnect the crank sensor i loose spark. with the sensor plugged in, i get spark.


Car :: IMG_1147.mp4 video by Hixchris - Photobucket



i also have the ground wires on this bolt on the tranny

i didnt think it would matter if it was one bolt lower, where it is supposed to be.


Any Help?

Doubt the ground is an issue.

It's not one bolt higher though. It's one bolt further from the engine. Look down at your lowest trans to engine bolt. Should have a stud on teh end. That's where the grounds go. You should have two loops plus the battery cable. On the starter you should have two sets of wires going to single loops and the battery cable.

If any of this is wrong, you could have starting issues.

The wiring is all good. And the ground seems to be good there. Nothing makes sense, only thing I can think of is ignition timing is off

these are my plugs, photo below. they were soaked with fuel. no oil. what i did was took all the plugs out, snapped a photo, dried them all up, dried out my cylinders overnight, and put them back in. i put a tiny bit of oil in the front 3 plug holes to get a little more of compression and hope for a start but still the same thing, no start. my intake is coughing though, i dont like the way it sounds. seems to cough every 5 seconds or so or cranking. and im also using a battery charger to help it crank faster. is it possible that with the S1X cam, being 1 tooth off would cause no start? im starting to think its the only thing left to check. I have fuel, compression, and spark. maybee the spark is not timing itself right? ugh!! its my DD i need a car! these are gapped at factory. i believe .45? i wanted to open up to .51, but im waiting for a start