Need help with a no code

[2mad]

My wife and I have a 2003 GTP that we have owned since it was new. I must say that it is one of the fastest cars I personally owned. We have never had a bit of problem with with it until just lately. The wife and daughter went on a trip and that is when the troubles began. While the vehicle is in operation, wether accelarting, coasting, but it is moving, it stops running. You could say it intermitingly dies. No ryme or reason. I took it in and had them run the computer check and no faults came back in the history. The check engine light was not on so no good there. The mechanic says everthing was good and doesn't show any problem. Drove home and 4 blocks from the shop it died. Still no engine check light. I have replaced the fuel pump, the pressure regulator, clean the mass air flow and flapper system. replaced the crankshaft position sensor. And still does the same thing. The last two things I replaced I test drove it about 10 miles, starting stopping, turning off the engine and restarting. Going fast, slow, stompin on it. Good to go. Then the wife drives around the block and it dies. Both times! I told her to lower the woman voltage output and got clobbered. it has the original batter that shows good in the idiot eye, but I will take it to a shop and do a load test on it. This is getting frustrating so any help would be appreciated.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

sounds like a CPS sensor, they never throw codes when they go.

[KeithGTP03]

He said he's replace that....sounds like he needs a wife delete

[SlowNA06]

How many miles are on it?

Actually, scratch that. Part of me is thinking it's starving for air. Check the intake filter - might be a rat's nest in it. If that's clear, it might be starving for fuel. I'd either check the fuel pressure off the fuel rail or just swap in a new fuel filter, see where you get from there. If no go, maybe some fresh spark plugs and wires.

[2mad]

Has 99000 miles on it. Tied to reboot wife, no good! I was going to try a new fuel pump but were talking 270 dollars. So I called a shop to find out if I can go through the seat to get to it. He said yes but he suggested I bring it in to have it checked on his 5000 dollar machine "instead of throwing more parts at it". I really don't like to do that but he talked me into it. I will let you know how it goes.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

i doubt its a fuel pump. that would be the last thing I would look at, its an electronic fault somewhere.

[blueguy]

Well...you said you CLEANED the MAF, not replaced it. So, unplug it and see if it still does the dying trick on you. Don't go out flooring the car while the MAF is unplugged either as it is just reading off of VE tables. If it runs fine...then your MAF is the issue.

[timboku]

^^^X2 on the MAF sensor. Cleaning doesnt do anything really. Unplug it and if it runs better thats what it is. i am betting that is the problem. Common issue.

[BillBoost37]

Being an 03 does this still have a fuel pump speed resistor guys? It's not exhibiting quite the correct signs. But the testing is free and easy.

Check the ICM connector to ensure it's clean and snug on the ICM. Pretend I didn't find that one out the hard way

Remove and look at both battery cables for corrosion. While the W bodies don't seem to suffer as much from it, the H's with more electronics will stall etc randomly with loose/corroded etc cables.

[2mad]

OK, here it is guys! Timboku you were right on! Unfortunately I already had the appointment with the guys machine. I read your idea with the MAF this morning and already had the appointment when I got up. On the way to the shop the car quit completely, I was in traffic and had a heck of getting it out of the traffic. Flustered I forgot your suggestion and called a tow. 55 bucks later it's at the shop. 90 to hook up the super computer, 161 to check it out. 238 smakers for a new MAF sensor. Crap. I should of went out there and drove it like you suggested Timboku. And to top if off now the abs/tcs light is on and the code reads front sensor is bad. It was not on when we took it in. The shop said it was and we argued that for a few seconds and I gave up. Now I am home and wondering if the tow driver might have hurt the leads when he tied it down. I am not familiar with the system so don't know if that can happen. I will fix it though. Thanks for the help everyone

[BillBoost37]

Slap it up on ramps and take a look at the wheel sensors. The wiring does run down the control arms etc and could have been bumped/moved/hurt in the tow.

[timboku]

That sucks that mechanics RIP people off. I would check the wire that leads to the hub to make sure it is ok. It runs down the Lower control arms to the back of the rotor assembly. You can see a white plug on a little mount. that is where it plugs in.
If that is pluged in follow it up to where it plugs in to ensure that is ok. Also check to see if it is cut on anything. If they did not tie it down the right way and used the control arms to hook up to, they could have damaged something while in tow.
Good luck with it.

[2mad]

Thanks for the reply. I hope that it is not the wire. I already bought the part thinking that if the obd code shows the sensor is bad then that is what would be wrong. After I ordered it I also found out that there was a recall on the wiring harness. It says that the harness had faults 4-5 inches in from the sensor because it WAS NOT ATTACHED as you said. Two questions, if it shows wear marks where it was towed is the driver responsible? If it is cracked like the recall says would they still grant the recall? Thanks again for the help. Greg

[ann]

On my 98 Grand Prix V6 3.8 with 205K miles, I had been dealing with stall & no-start problems, usually after tach needle drops to 0 and stays there for the rest of the ride, continuously for four months, here in California. Like many others, also had/have ABS and Non-Trac dash lights on. Started praying a lot!, and replaced, in this order: spark plugs (also checked wires and boots) and air filter, CPS and wiring harness, 2009 recall spark plug wire channel, fuel filter, fuel relay, fuel pump, ICM - and still stalling and sometimes not starting. Checked battery connections and others. Finally, replaced fuel pressure regulator and THE PROBLEMS ARE GONE! My car is healed! The tach needle doesn't even drop anymore. I do also do a couple things differently: I use mid-grade gas instead of regular, and I turn the key to ON for about 5 seconds before I start it up. On the day the last part was replaced, we were still getting the CPS "A" and EGR out of range codes, but the CPS is new, the EGR was checked, and the car is running great now, so I'm not worrying about the codes!