running less than stock will end up running very high EGTs and youll burn valves.
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04-18-2011
running less than stock will end up running very high EGTs and youll burn valves.
04-18-2011
Not really...porting the blower lowers outlet temps and since there is less heat it kills KR a little more...some people claim to have noticed a good amount of KR drop, others not so much. My theory is that the people that noticed it more had an over ported blower...but thats just me.
93 is great...and honestly, you really don't need a Ported TB or S/C...its just a nice bonus. Also, if you port your throttle body you WILL need a retune on the MAF tables...since the ported TB will change them. A canned tune will not suffice.
04-18-2011
Will I also need a custom tune for the N*, or do Overkill, etc. use the standard MAF tables for LQ4 + N* that I see on ZZP's website?
And basically, we're stuck with a 2-3MPG hit when we go to the 180*.
04-18-2011
If your car is going to be modded enough for an aftermarket MAF you'll want an in car tune.
04-18-2011
So, to sum it up, I think I'll drop to the 3.4 after getting my 180* & canned tune in there. So it will be headers, intake, 180, 104s, overkilled. Obviously I'll be scanning.
From there I'll work on getting my genV. When I make my next drop, I'll be at gen V, full IC, 1.9RR, N*, LQ4. At that point I'll go for the in-car tune. Which reminds me, will I need a wideband for the tuner?
Sound good? Thoughts on pulley size for my second setup?
04-18-2011
Never tune on the narrowband (factory o2 readings)...at that mod level you might consider learning how to tune and getting it done yourself that way you can tune on the fly due to weather changes and it isn't just a balls out tune you'd get for a 60* day...because when its 30* out...hello knock...and you'd have no way to fix it besides either not getting in the throttle or pulley'n up.
Second setup...I say 3.2". Why not smaller on a full-size IC/rockers/headers? Because I'd run that 3.2", on pump 93...and crank the timing on stock injectors and hope your IPW's don't run static.
04-19-2011
nick, stop telling people to run 180* thermostats.
04-19-2011
Ok.
Run a drilled 160* like I do.
04-19-2011
I'll put new injectors on, no problem. I planned to, just forgot to mention them.
Bio, what's your opinion on the t-stat... I'm interested to hear as I'd like to avoid the 180 if at all possible - for mileage and the health of the engine.
Also, I really really would like to learn to tune on my own. I guess I just need to read up on what the best way to do that is...
04-19-2011
It's chewing tabacco...what do you do with it?
Chew it of course.
Also, rules don't apply to blue cars since they destroy all common knowledge and procedures and throw them out the back door.
04-19-2011
running colder only decreases mileage because the engine isn't running at true operating temperature and it increases engine wear.
it is an old school trick they used back in the day when they had no tuners. the only thing they could do to combat detonation was run the motor colder, scale their MAFs to add fuel, and run race gas. now with tuners all over the place there is no reason to even do it. i would personally just run a stock thermostat and never care.
04-19-2011
What pulley do you think I could run on the 3.4 setup sans 180? I'm willing to sacrifice some performance to stay with the 195 and combat knock in better ways.
You think I should add a wideband now and tune myself for the 3.4 setup? Otherwise, isn't Reptile in NW Indiana (I'm in SW MI)?
04-19-2011
Missouri.Originally Posted by T0pwater
And a wideband is always worth it. Narrowband sucks.
04-19-2011
Anybody running a stock t-stat w/ a 3.4 or 3.5 pulley?
04-21-2011
Probably not...and honestly...as long as the fan turn-on points are set correctly...you aren't going to really notice the difference in a cooler T-Stat. Also, the MPG's you MIGHT lose from tossing in a cooler T-Stat, your going to gain back (plus more)with headers/intake/tune
04-21-2011
I think the one way to know is to try it... I'll get a 3.5 for now and once I find a tuner near me, I'll put it on. But I'm pretty dead-set on keeping the 195 stat.... sorry, but I just feel like it matters, not only MPG's but longevity too.
As far as fan turn-on points, I'm not really into the strip and I don't live in the city, so it's not as huge for me as it is for some. If I can street my car and wax enough people there I'll be more than happy. But just in case I'll make sure when I tune to get the turn-on points lowered. Where should I set them for a 195 stat... 195?
04-21-2011
I THINK, factory settings are 210* or around there.
But...it wouldn't hurt to turn it down a bit just to keep things cool. One thing I do like about the tunes is also the fan settings after you turn off your car they will keep running for a couple minutes
04-21-2011
When I first saw the title of this thread I thought, oh no here goes another one. I've been following it and its really turned out to be a cool thread.
I decided to keep my t-stat at 195 when I did my lim as I have also heard about the slight wear issue with cooler running temps. With a high mileage(180k) near-stock engine like mine, I think 195 is the way to go.
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