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09-13-2010
im getting some SD headers off ebay and am installing myself. i know its not easy but i can still do it. i know its recommended to purchase new clamps instead of the ones they give you. but do i need anything else like any special tools? i have sockets, wrenches, etc.. what kind of penitrator should i use for the bolts? just looking for some tips from people who know this more than i do to make the process easier. any tips will help. thanks
09-13-2010
pb blaster worked for me, ratching wrenches and u-joint sockets are nice to have and will make the install go smoother but are not required, some people will recommend copper RTV to seal the joints as well
and have something to strap your engine to keep it rocked forward for the rear header to fit
09-13-2010
My bolts came right out without any oil, but I like PB blast. Id use gm manifold gaskets instead of the ones that come with it. I also used some copper rtv on the joints, if they are still the slide on type. If you can get the old off, you can get the new on.
09-13-2010
i bought the DNA headers and they came with nice gaskets so i was able to use new one but the stock ones for the head will work fine
however you will probably need a new one for the downpipe because mine was crappy and fell apart when i took it out
09-13-2010
awesome thanks. yeah i heard use alot of copper rtv to prevent leaks and to just get new GM gaskets for the best seal. i think im going to get the speed daddy headers. will that just bolt up to my stock cat back? (where the DP from the new headers meets the section before the stock resonator)
09-13-2010
yes, all bolt on
09-13-2010
what about my rear o2 sensor? im deleting my cat but want to keep the o2. is there a hole for that or do i need to modify that also? i know i have to buy an o2 extension from zzp for the front one.
09-13-2010
there's a hole, BUT, it comes out in a really crappy location. I just deleted mine in pcm. I also had/ have an issue with the downpipe hanging low. I have no idea why they built them like they did, but it hangs down really bad. Mine dented in once when I bottomed out, hasn't done it since. I would recommend some header wrap while you're at it. Help keep the engine comp temps down some.
09-13-2010
there will be 2 bungs for both O2 sensors but if theres no cat the SES will come on so it needs to be deleted from the PCMOriginally Posted by colindunn
you can buy the extension but i just took extra wire and did it myself for free
09-14-2010
A buddy to help is nice lol, new gaskets RTV
09-15-2010
X2, I always just splice in about 18" of new wire for the extension.
His rear O2 codes are already turned off in his dhp pcm, so he is good to go there.
As for the Speed Daddy headers, I have installed a few sets and the rear O2 location has never given me much trouble. There is a bung for the sensor right in front of the cat-back flange. The only issue I have had with it's location is that the big fat rubber rings that the exhaust hangs on are right there too. The one side can be hard to get on right next to the sensor.
The front O2 location is another story. Terrible location and almost always ends up so close to the floor that the sensor won't even go in without beating a dent in the floor of the car. I recommend just plugging that bung and having a new bung welded in at a better location. The top of the crossover pipe is nice, and then you don't even need an O2 extension at all.
09-15-2010
Can you really put the o2 there? I just changed mine on my headers and it was a ***** i thought i needed a new o2 bung but finally got it after tapping it with a spark plug tap\
The front O2 location is another story. Terrible location and almost always ends up so close to the floor that the sensor won't even go in without beating a dent in the floor of the car. I recommend just plugging that bung and having a new bung welded in at a better location. The top of the crossover pipe is nice, and then you don't even need an O2 extension at all.
09-15-2010
I don't think he'd say that if you couldn't put it there.
09-15-2010
as long as its in the exhaust before any other component there shouldnt be a problem right?
Last edited by CTKGP09; 09-15-2010 at 04:44 PM.
09-15-2010
Hmm, that would only read the front bank... wonder if that would give a different reading. I would want to be reading both, especially if you are tuning off of it.
09-15-2010
FYI, S&S headers only read o2's off the front bank and my car ran just fine.
besides, anyone that knows anything has a wideband in the downpipe and is tuning off of that, not the narrowband.
09-16-2010
ZZP's Stainless Headers. Note the location of the O2 bung.
09-16-2010
^^PeYaH!
09-17-2010
hmph, guess its fine then
09-17-2010
I just finished mine the other day. Its not a bad job at all. FYI make sure you test fit all pipes together first before installing them, mine and many others have had issues with them not fitting together right. Also make sure you have your O2 extension or are ready to soilder some Ladded length to yours. I added 15" and it worked out perfect. I also used the gaskets alon with the factory ones that were on the car and have had no issues at all and I acctually liked the gaskets they came with. My P/O though. Lower the rear part of the subframe, it makes life so much easier when dropping the rear header in, all you do is back off the bolts in the back section enough to drop like 2-3", dont remove them all the way though. I also used air tools so it made it even faster to do. All in all its not a bad job to due. Oh yeah another thing to note is I had to drill out the exhaust flange on my cat back to accomidate the larger bolts that the headers come with. Make sure you use copper RTV and even use it at the back flange too. Have fun.....
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