Looking for suggestions. Whats next to do?

**alkygto** · 09-02-2010

So... you are rebuilding your engine and you don't know the difference between headers and mufflers, and you don't even know if you have headers or not

?

Good luck!

**real diehl** · 09-02-2010

Originally Posted by QUICKSILVER462

While your engine is apart, adjust your top ring gaps to prevent yourself from damaging another piston. This is probably the single best mod you can do to a supercharged engine. The stock ring gaps are just too tight for the amount of power these engines are capable of producing (with the supercharger).

Originally Posted by matt5112

Isnt the issue if your cylinder temps get too high the top ring insta welds itself to the cylinder wall then it chips the piston?

larger ring gap would avoid this but result in a more leaky engine.

Pretty sure this is only an issue with aftermarket Hypereutectic pistons. I had to do this on my SBC.

The chipped pistons are usually a result of knocking or detonation IIRC.

**matt5112** · 09-02-2010

due to the gap being too tight then heat = expansion = chipping.

heat is there because of detonation.

And its not just aftermarket pistons.... many stock blocks have had this happen.... In fact most of them have been stock blocks.

**Reptile** · 09-02-2010

But stock pistons almost always chip in the same place...and I don't think it's totally ring related.

**matt5112** · 09-02-2010

around 3 o'clock right?

Could it be a defect in the casting?

**Reptile** · 09-02-2010

I've always wondered if it was just the design of the heads and where the valves are. Someone probably did the study on it, but I didn't ever take the time to look it up.

**blueguy** · 09-02-2010

Designed by GM.

Flawed by me.

**btamayo** · 09-02-2010

Originally Posted by alkygto

So... you are rebuilding your engine and you don't know the difference between headers and mufflers, and you don't even know if you have headers or not

?

Good luck!

haha yea im just a 17 year old rookie. i got my dad's help through it all but im still branching out trying to still learn a lot through forums like this and what not. its just a project so i can learn by getting my hands on it.

**real diehl** · 09-02-2010

Originally Posted by matt5112

due to the gap being too tight then heat = expansion = chipping.

heat is there because of detonation.

And its not just aftermarket pistons.... many stock blocks have had this happen.... In fact most of them have been stock blocks.

The stock pistons are a hypereutectic alloy. With hypereutectic pistons you normally have to make the ring gap bigger to compensate for the expansion of the hypereutectic piston...which expands more with heat because they contain silicon.

But I still don't think stock spec pistons and ring gap are the cause of chipping pistons in these engines.

**matt5112** · 09-02-2010

can you not buy aftermarket hypereutectic pistons?

**blueguy** · 09-02-2010

You can...in Swan Racing's stroker kit...that's one place to get them I know for sure.

**btamayo** · 09-03-2010

alright well after doing a little research relating to this jacked up setup i got going on, to compensate for the 3.4 pulley.... in addition to my cai, im going to also need a u-bend delete and a 180 stat. is there anything else im leaving out?

**blueguy** · 09-03-2010

Ummm...did anyone mention my safely modding thread? Really? Go read it.

**btamayo** · 09-04-2010

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

Ummm...did anyone mention my safely modding thread? Really? Go read it.

My bad i must have overlooked your post.

I read it and it helped A LOT, thank you. I already have the cai and ignition system. im cleaning the engine up and replacing all the fluids with the rebuild. and before i stick it on the road i already planned on getting headers, ubend and a 180 stat.

quick question tho... i saw that a new cam was more of an advanced mod but since i already have the motor down into pieces i was thinking about throwing a new one in while its convenient. would it be safe to do so?

**matt5112** · 09-04-2010

if its outta the car it'll be pretty easy but make sure you know what you're doing and you have the right valvetrain parts for the cam you select.

**blueguy** · 09-07-2010

If you aren't comfortable with messing with the heads...then either

A) Leave them alone and put 1.84 Rockers or a VS Cam in your car
B) Learn and do it right the first time
C) Take them to a machine shop and have the new springs/retainers installed...and if you have the money...have your heads done...or send them to me. PM if you want to do that.

**btamayo** · 09-07-2010

I was looking at getting a COMP cam and lifter set actually. I've just recently started doin research on rockers also.
As for the head... im going to get a shop to inspect em since a piston blew and depending how much money i have to blow getting them fixed/replaced will determine if any extra work gets done to them.

I dont mind a little patience for some spending cash for heads but im already trying to just get this stupid thing fixed, balancing the setup already equipped(previous owner did a horrible job) and trying to get a cam installed on top of that(since the old one is already out and on the floor).
running on a minimum wage job doesnt make the wait easy haha.

cars are pricey

but SO worth it

**matt5112** · 09-07-2010

which comp cam?

i think all of ZZP's cams are made by comp cams.

But if you're talking about the energy cam then DONT its not worth your time.

Their lifters suck, just get some LS7 OEM lifters.

**btamayo** · 09-07-2010

So far im favoriting the VS cam since its pretty simple but im not done lookin.
As for the LS7 lifters, can they handle the preload with everything stock or would i have to replace the push rods also?

**matt5112** · 09-07-2010

if you're replacing the lifters i'd replace the rods as well.

And the LS7 lifters are the same as the OEM 3800 lifters. Just easier and cheaper to buy them as LS7 lifters.

Should be able to get them for $120+ shipping