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So true of so many things. Everybody told me most of my life what an amazing rifle shot I was. Eventually I decided to find out and started shooting NRA highpower and found out how little i knew about marksmanship. Still working on that one too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
Dude, that worked perfectly! Thanks again. [1QUOTE=Scottydoggs;1449451] knock retard. you need to load gm pid's.
this guy has the directions listed in plain english really. http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/79239-Bluetooth-and-Torque-Pro-app-Live-KR-monitor
load up the pids, then see if kr is listed, if not add torque scan its a free add on.[/QUOTE]
Got one fault code on the drive to work: P0102. I'm guessing this may be due to either no mods to my air induction (other than a K&N filter) or related to having just cleaned and oiled the filter. Where is the MAF sensor located anyway?
I saw a KR reading of 8.4 degrees when I accelerated to almost 4k RPM while already doing about 50 MPH. Driving around normally KR is zero. The only other time I saw any KR happened while accelerating from a stop (again to near 4k RPM) and it only got to 1.2 degrees.
thats a no voltage code for your maf. check fuse # 21, replace if bad, the maf plugs wires for damage or the maf is bad.
that's a lot of kr. the maf sensor is located directly on top of the throttle body. the part you can see is squareish, but there is a leg that drops down into the airflow portion of the throttle body. if you replace it, do not buy an aftermarket. either find a used one, or you can get an oem one from amazon like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
the maf code is hopefully the cause of the kr, and nothing is learned yet for the pcm.
I'll try to clean it first. Hopefully, it's just gunked up. Apparently, there's a special cleaner for those made by CRC?Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
Also, does the high KR indicate actual knock, or is it a bad result of a calculation?
its not dirty, its got no voltage, aka its not working at all. check the things i listed. replace it is the last step.
Got it.
Replaced fuse, wiring looks fine. Goodbye $82
dont buy a aftermarket maf they suck.
your best off getting a used maf from a junk yard or off ebay. the number on the maf top is the part #.
I ordered the Hitachi one from Amazon: $99 with 2-day shipping. The dealership wants $394 for the same one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
those are supposed to be ok. like they also make oem maf's for gm. used is like 40 bucks most of the time. hell im on a used maf for the last 6 years, best 40 bucks i ever spent lol
CRC does make maf sensor cleaner. I keep a bottle of it on hand because I use the oiled K&N air filter, so after I change the filter and drive for a bit, I hit the maf with the cleaner just to make sure I clean it if I over oiled the filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Garandpa
The way these knock sensors work, is that they sense piezoelectric frequencies caused by too much pressure in the combustion chamber. so, kr isn't actually engine knock, when you hear the knock, the damage is done and you will need a new block.
the sensors pick up detonation and pulls timing in order to save the engine. 8 degrees of kr is likely due to not having a working maf. kr chips pistons too. why your goal is ZERO KR when tuned/modded.
for every degree of kr it pulls 2 degrees of timing, so 8ยบ kr takes away all your timing pretty much thats neg 16 degrees so if your set to 18 wot like most canned tunes, you were actually running on 2 degrees. and it will just fall on its face when that happens.
if you see kr, let off, save a piston.
and you need to run 93 octane if you have it where you live, no less then 91. run 87 and your causing the KR with the wrong gas.
So i looked into the P0102 fault a little more and it can be caused by a clogged/dirty MAF sensor. The fault is lower voltage than expected to the PCM. I'm getting variable MAF values on my scanner which leads me to believe it's not completely inop unless there's some other source for MAF readings.
never heard of a cleaning fixing low voltage, its either the fuse marked ign, the wires, or the maf is dead/dying.
Low Hz actually, but i have a new sensor inbound anyway. I found an excellent test procedure on easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.8L/maf-sensor-diagnostic-tests-2
the hz is how the pcm reads the maf, p0102 is a low voltage code, like its not getting voltage, or its weak.
those test would be good for testing the plugs wires too.
check your o2 harness too for the o2 sensor, its on the same fuse as the maf, the wires get burnt up on the headers sometimes, and blow the fuse for ya. the maf code always comes up first when the o2 wires are damaged.