if your resonator is blown out, you can replace it with a glass pack, have it welded in, if the whole cat back is shot ebay sells stock replacement cat backs starting at 260 shipped. what i got on my car now, nice quiet ebay cat back.
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if your resonator is blown out, you can replace it with a glass pack, have it welded in, if the whole cat back is shot ebay sells stock replacement cat backs starting at 260 shipped. what i got on my car now, nice quiet ebay cat back.
OP should just go turbo and be happy.
Yer killin me, man!Quote:
Originally Posted by ADrugDealer
Is there anything I should do to my transmission when I do the rest of the mods, like flush or??
never flush your tranny. pan drop and filter, takes about 8 qts to re fill.
add a shift kit while the pans off, its like 40 off ebay for a transgo kit.
O.K, so what about an inexpensive scanner to monitor what I've done, once I've done it?
torque app is the cheapest way to go about it. under 20 bucks. then theres scangauge and areoforce but they cost way more.
So will this get me there with an appropriate app for my android?
http://www.bafxpro.com/obdreader/
I have this exact one that I will sell you for 15 shipped plus paypal fees if you want it
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products...bluetooth+obd2
Yup. I've got a similar one, mine was off of Amazon but it's the same company.
or the elm 327. those are like 12 bucks. but they are hit or miss it seems, the mini has a bad record for sure, i got the large one, works fine for me.
Loss of torque maybe, can't see loss of HP, but back pressure is a myth, lol. I'm just old school, and simple rules apply, more air in = more air out. And depending on the mods, the 3" is well worth the effort. I.e., sub 3" pulley, ported heads, high lift cam will benefit from a more free flowing exhaust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
; )
So, did Buck dyno the engine and record numbers and then change exhaust and record the numbers again? I don't ever remember seeing anything like that posted, lol, not saying it didn't happen.
the Mandrel System Stainless is probably what I'm going to replace my CatBack with... Is good stuff! Just need someone who can weld SS and put the Vbands in for me...
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolone
thats the story. lost 15 hp iirc
Thats crazy numbers for that...Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
Crazy thng is all the HP numbers published from dyno's, few have exhaust info., lol. All have intake specs, but few indicate their headers, Catback, info., etc.
but my 3" exhaust and Hooker Mufflers still sound best GP Exhaust ever! :D :D :D
I saw the dyno sheets and it was like 15 hp. pretty much what happened was that he dynoed the car, changed the catback exhaust and then dynoed it again with 15 hp less. I thought it was crazy too, but the dyno sheets aren't lying. I don't remember what mods he had at the time.
O.K, so if we're done hijacking the thread....
I'm installing headers this Saturday. I've gathered all the tools for the job and read over the "easy way" instructions several times. Doesn't sound too bad, and well within my skill set. The only nagging thing right now is what to do with the front O2 sensor. Not keen on bending or bashing **** to make it fit. I have a MIG welder and know how to use it, although I've never welded any stainless. I ordered the weld-on bung from ZZP in case I need it and I can pick up some SS wire if I decide to go that route. I also ordered the O2 extension port and an extension harness. Anyone have experience with these?
your best bet is just to relocate the 02 sensor to the bottom of the downpipe. that's the best spot to put it and have the most clearance between the sensor and firewall.
As in weld the bung there, or is there a port already on the pipe?Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
weld in the bung. if you look at the downpipe, there is a dip where it goes down and then comes back up. this is the spot some people don't like because if you look under the car, it comes down lower than some people are comfortable with. some people just leave like it is, other people cut out the interlock flex section and weld in a shorter section. it is really just preference, as far as I know, no one has ever had ground clearance issues with that section of downpipe, but my memory isn't the best sometimes.
it seems like someone said you couldn't cut the o2 sensor wires and solder in longer ones, but that's what I did the last time, and it seems to be working just fine.
if you haven't installed a wideband sensor and plan on it, read the directions on where to locate the sensor in the exhaust because it will need to be in the downpipe pre cat converter, and you might have an easier time welding in the bung at the same time as the oem o2 sensor.
O.K. good. Let's talk coolant. I'm leaning towards flushing the system out and going with "universal" so I don't mix green with any remnants of the Dextron. What say you car guys?