Thread: 13+ degrees of KR just leaving a light?

So I have had this weird issue every once in a while where I will take off and the engine will lose power. This under normal driving conditions leaving from a stop or even while in traffic. I have noticed that the timing will drop to about 5-6* and the power falls flat, it should be up in the mid 20-30's range but it just drops. I can't watch KR and timing at the same time, so I ended up just watching KR and as I took off the KR went up and up until I was at 13* under light throttle. I stab the throttle and the KR goes away and everything is normal for a time. Then it will happen again, may be several times in a row, or may just be once, may not happen for a week.

Car is 05 GTP no real mods.

Thanks,

Jeff

Probably the easiest way to see if it's real or false, would be to put in some race fuel and watch it again.

That's the thing I would have to run race fuel all the time since this the 1st time in weeks it's happened. My initial thought was that the car was just real hot since the AC runs all the time and my IAT's would be in the 140-170* range. I have changed the way the intake is setup. It's short elbow spacer for vacuum line and MAF to filter. Now I have added an insulating material similar to the way the Wizard is setup and my IAT's are in the 5-10* above ambient and in the low 70's when it happened earlier. I don't have a readily available source for race fuel and AV gas is out because it's leaded. I am running 93 octane,

The other thing is that it will do it a couple of times and sometimes I step into it and it will completely go away, timing goes back to normal and no issues. I can then do a WOT through 2nd gear and get a couple of hits of KR in the 1-2* range 4-6 if the temp is high (90+). Other times I will let off and then try to accelerate again and it will still kill timing, but about the 3rd time I give it gas (remember I am rolling a little faster each time and this within the 0-10 mph range) it will go back to normal.

I don't see having a converter "plugged" would have anything to do with it. I say that in quotes because I am not sure what you are referring to. Plugged as in it's so full of material that the elements cannot pass one an other so it's causing some kind of extra load that is causing the engine to knock or impart noise that the sensors interpret as knock. Or are you saying that the converter is plugged and not allowing fluid to flow into and out of the converter.

Recently I installed a trans cooler. The trans ran really hot about 10 or so degrees over the coolant temp at times in 90+ temps. bypassed the internal and switched to an external and the temps are actually a little lower than they should be I barely get to 170 in 50* weather and bout 197 in 90* weather. I have an airflow issue so I am not surprised by the higher temp. This is a 1 hour 20 mile drive half and half city/highway. Earlier I installed a shift kit since the transmission was sluggish to shift. A fair amount of friction material was in the pan, and on the magnet, I would say slightly more than in the how to thread. It shifts like a factory trans should, not crisp or anything. I don't know what that tells you about a plugged converter but that's the best info I can give you without more questions.

Thanks,

Jeff

Lol, thought you were talking about the Torque converter. No it's not plugged, My exhaust is so loud that I would have noticed it. My boost pressure hasn't changed either.

Jeff