Thread: Weird feeling issue

Alright. completely shifting gears here lol.. Turns out every time I was pulling the regulator, the battery was also dead from trying to start the car while broken down. I have verified that the problem is not fuel related. The problem is electrical related. It can be fixed by removing the power from the system for a brief moment, then reconnecting it (Hence why killing the battery would solve the problem). I swapped PCMs from my GTP and put the tune on it and it seemed to help, but it still happened.



*OLD * I've been having really strange issues with the fuel system lately. I'll be driving down the road and out of nowhere the car will suddenly lose all its power, shut down and not want to start again after that. If I try to restart it, it just stumbles for a bit and doesn't ever grab and start back up.. I have 60# Injectors on the stock rail but I drove about 1,000 miles until this happened. Since, I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and now the fuel rail itself with another in case I had some issue there, but the problem still persists. If I remove the fuel pressure regulator and put it back in just right, the car will start back up, but will repeat the problem not too long after. Any suggestions?

edit

I didnt read your other post but did you try replacing the relay for the fuel pump?

The relay might be bad/going bad. But I'm not sure what happens when that happens.
That was really the only thing I could think of since you replaced pretty much everything else.

Possibly a bad battery or an alternator? What happens when the car dies?

Are you just pulling battery cable off for a couple seconds and reconnecting it? You said "wipe pcm memory". I would think you need the battery unhooked for 10-15 minutes for that.

I'm not sure, but I would definitely consider the battery. A bad cell in a battery can do all sorts of weird things to a car. Maybe at least have it tested if you don't have another to swap.

That or check the engine harness for anything grounding out. That's all my noob brain can guess. Sure someone with actual insight will be along with some more helpful advice

Yeah the reason I'm thinking a short is because you said the pcm resets so fast. I don't think cels go off so fast. Maybe something is grounding out which instantly pulls all residual power from the pcm when the battery is unplugged.

Maybe cels clear sooner. I know repair manuals always tell you to leave battery unplugged for up to 30mins. But that is probably to reset trims etc.

Edit: and because your car goes from a no start to start condition by just a quick disconnect. A cel I don't think will cause a no start like that unless its a p1626? Anti theft code.

Ok I want to regroup my thoughts here, because I am all over the place with this one. SO:

The issue: I will be driving down the road and the car will suddenly kill. Once it kills, it doesn't want to start back up.
Temporary solution: Disconnect the battery for a brief moment and reconnect it

Codes:
- P1860 TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit (Irrelevant)
- P0113 IAT Sensor 1 circuit high (Irrelevant)
- P0403 EGR Control circuit (Irrelevant)
- P0101 MAF Circuit range/performance <- I thought this was ruled out, but it wasn't.
- P0300 Random misfire (Irrelevant)
- P1554 Cruise control feedback circuit <- I thought this was ruled out, but it wasn't.

Things I have tried:
- PCM
- ICM
- Crank position sensor
- IAC
- MAF
- TPS
- Unplugging cruise control module
- Anything fuel delivery related has been ruled out

Things I plan to try:
- Searching for a shorted wire in the harness, since both P1860 and P1554 are in regards to electrical problems
- Ohming the injectors to make sure one is not low on impedance, causing the driver to overwork and overheat the ICM

Other interesting things:
- Boost/Vac gauge reads approx. 18 in.Hg and the aeroforce reads like 23?
- I have been driving it to work, and I don't know for sure if resetting the codes is the remedy (haven't been able to do a control experiment), but I can drive for an hour and so long as I reset the codes, the car will stay running. However, because I have been driving it to work, I have been disconnecting/reconnecting the battery before I head out, just to ensure I don't break down on the interstate.

Any other ideas?