Thread: SD headers

Official List:
-2 x Exhaust special clamps (like these:ZZ Performance), can be found at Napa too.
-1 x RTV Copper gasket stuff (http://www.zzperformance.com/products_img/277_2.jpg)
-1 x set of exhaust header gaskets (Felpro or OEM)
-1 x 2.5" Catback to Downpipe Gasket
-A set of nuts and bolts for the catback to downpipe attachment (Sometimes they get rusted so bad that you need to replace it)
-Bottle of Liquid wrench/Bolt loosener
-Anti-Seeze Grease (put it on the bolts for the install, so you don't break a bolt next time you break them loose)
-Block off Plates for EGR setup (2 plates, if you are removing the EGR system)
-Beer


I think thats it

They are the same.

Yes Headers take care of the ubend issue because they replace it all till you hook into the catback.

-2 x Exhaust special clamps (like these:ZZ Performance), can be found at Napa too. Torca .. you can find them much cheaper than ZZP. Amazon, ebay, local stores.
-1 x RTV Copper gasket stuff Skip RTV, unless you like a goopy lookin mess in your engine bay for no reason. I use a rubber mallet to tap things together and they seal great. (http://www.zzperformance.com/products_img/277_2.jpg)
-1 x set of exhaust header gaskets (Felpro or OEM) Reuse your stock gaskets. clean them with a little brake cleaner. Stocks are an MLS and reusable.
-1 x 2.5" Catback to Downpipe Gasket Felpro part number 31532
-A set of nuts and bolts for the catback to downpipe attachment Great to have on hand.(Sometimes they get rusted so bad that you need to replace it)
-Bottle of Liquid wrench/Bolt loosener No need to spray the bolts into the head
-Anti-Seeze Grease (put it on the bolts for the install, so you don't break a bolt next time you break them loose) I see this stuff burning off when the headers/motor gets up to temp the first time.
-Block off Plates for EGR setup (2 plates, if you are removing the EGR system) Retain the EGR if you need it for emissions, it's one bolt.
-Beer

I think thats it You forgot the most important part, TOOLS!

Tools:
Jack
Piece of wood that spans the hump in the rear of the subframe. Say a 4x4 about 2 foot long
jack stands (2)
1" extension
3" extension
18-24" extension (for downpipe bolts)
15mm wrench (pivothead ratcheting preferred)
15mm socket (Deep SnapOn ball pivot preferred)
13mm socket (Deep SnapOn ball pivot preferred)
10mm deep socket
5.5mm socket
18mm socket
Ratchets 1/4", 3/8" at minimum (pivot head locking with long handle preferred)
Plug socket
O2 socket


On SD's the front O2 will contact the tunnel. You must prepare for this, some guys beat the tunnel, some have the headers bent afterwards to make room.

Procedure:
Remove plug wires from plugs and leave them on the coils, laying on the motor.
Remove plugs (pulling dogbones and using passengerside to move/hold motor is easiest)
Remove driverside crossbrace and intake (3 x 13mm)
Remove crossover to front manifold bolts. Loosening equally is your best chance to get them off w/o snapping. (2 x 13mm)
Remove crossover to rear manifold. Loosening equally is your best chance to get them off w/o snapping. (4 x 13mm, 2 nuts, 2 bolts)
Remove nut holding oil dipstick to front head (1 x 13mm) Wiggle/pull to Remove dipstick. (Pulling actual stick out keeps top piece from breaking)
Remove nuts holding heat shield over front exhaust manifold (2 x 13mm)
Remove engine lift bracket (2 x 13mm)
Remove nuts/bolts holding front manifold to head (6 x 13mm)
Remove the two end studs from the front head (2 x 5.5mm) Gasket should come off at this point.
Jack and support car at the drip edges. (These are the thicker area of metal in front of the door that the owners manual tells you to use as jacking points.)
Go under car and remove the bolts from downpipe to catback (2 x 15mm)
Remove rubber donuts holding rear of downpipe (large screwdriver)
Unhook O2 connector to rear sensor.
Remove two studs/nuts holding the downpipe to rear manifold (2 x 13mm, possibly 15mm on some 97's) Downpipe should now be out of the way.
Unbolt EGR to rear manifold (1 x 10mm, newer years it's a 13mm)
Remove O2 sensor from rear manifold (7/8" O2 socket)
Remove nuts holding engine cover bracket to rear exhaust studs (2 x 13mm)
Remove rear engine lift bracket (2 x 13mm)
Remove rear exhaust manifold bolts/nuts (6 x 13mm) Note: one is next to the bolt from the EGR. Tough to see.
Remove studs from head (2 x 5.5mm)
Position jack with 4x4 under the rear of the subframe, in a manner that it paralells the radiator and will support both sides of the subframe. Remove the two rear subframe bolts (2 x 18mm)
Lower the rear of the subframe 3 inches.
Wiggle rear exhaust out through the bottom.
Wipe down rear exhaust gasket and have prepared.
Wiggle new rear header into place, put exhaust gasket in place and use studs to start the ends and hold the manifold with nuts started on the bolts. Do not tighten
Raise subframe and reinstall bolts (2 x 18mm)
From above tighten the studs back into head (2 x 5.5mm)
Begin tightening nuts and start all other bolts. As you start these bolts watch the EGR tube and line it up in the hole on the rear header.
Bolt the EGR tube to rear header (1 x 10mm or 13mm)
Tighten the rear header to the rear head
Put rear crossover clamp on and position in a way to make it easy to tighten the clamp.
Put crossover in place
Put front crossover clamp on and position in a way to make it easy to tighten the clamp.
Start front header into the crossover, position gasket and get one or both of the studs into head started and put nuts on them to hold them.
Tighten the studs into head (2 x 5.5mm)
Start to tighten the nuts on those studs and lightly tap the crossover with a rubber mallet to facilitate/vibrate it over the front header.
Get the remainder of the front bolts started.
Tighten the front bolts slowly while continually tapping the crossover with rubber mallet. (6 x 13mm)
Once they are all tightned down the crossover/front header should be all set.
Tighten the front and rear crossover clamps.
Reinstall spark plugs and wires being careful not to have a plug wire touching the headers.
Connect O2 extension harness and route so it will not touch headers or plug wires.
Go underneath and clean catback exhaust flange surface for the new gasket.
Put racepipe or catted pipe in place on the downpips and clamp.
Slide new catback gasket in place and bolt together (2 x 15mm)
Put O2's in place and connect them.
Lower car to ground and fire it up.

Your such a nice guy Bill

Awesome! Great timing, I just ordered a set of SDs and I'll be using this post as a guide.

Easiest way to get the rear manifold in is to unbolt the tranny dipstick and slide the manifold in from the side. I've seen people (including myself a few years back) fight with the car for hours trying to get that manifold in. I did it in about 1 minute this time.

Originally Posted by apierce1289

Maybe we should make a sticky for this?

LOL, no.

Originally Posted by mechguy

A short while back there was a newer member that concentrated the list of required/upgrade items....lol.

Band clamps and a **** load of copper RTV?

Originally Posted by benner

Easiest way to get the rear manifold in is to unbolt the tranny dipstick and slide the manifold in from the side. I've seen people (including myself a few years back) fight with the car for hours trying to get that manifold in. I did it in about 1 minute this time.

For me, the hardest part was getting that damn tranny dipstick bolted back in after removing it. Once the header was it the bolt that holds the dipstick in is right below a header pipe, the crossover IIRC. What a ***** that was getting the bolt back in.

Originally Posted by starscream5000

For me, the hardest part was getting that damn tranny dipstick bolted back in after removing it. Once the header was it the bolt that holds the dipstick in is right below a header pipe, the crossover IIRC. What a ***** that was getting the bolt back in.

Yeah I can imagine. I've got a set of midget wrenches (actual name) that are perfect for the job. Plus I bolted it up as soon as the rear was in place before anything else.

Actually about to go out to the garage and finish it all up. They just came in today.

Just wrapped it up. Sounds better but I'm pretty sure I cracked the number 4 spark plug cause it's got a solid miss in that cylinder. No heat in that primary after running (others were scaulding hot).

Also, for you guy that've been running them for a while with no cat, Are you running the O2 sensor in the rear location? cause there's no way to install it without it hitting the tunnel wall. I extended it out for now to run off the rear O2 location.

FWIW, you'll notice no RTV or unbolting of the dipstick tube for the trans in my post. Ed's was the first of three installs happening at my place this week. None will have either done to them.

If you want to say putting that rear header in from above is the easiest way, I give you kudos.. to me that's like shooting yourself in the head to cure a weak headache. Tylenol (aka dropping the subframe) would have done the job.

I've tried the various suggestions and honed it down to what works best for me. That's me. I'm a right handed average sized guy working in his home garage. No lift, not too many fancy tools.

Blue..that's how I roll.