Thread: if I can't fix this.. I'm selling

Yep, there's a leak somewhere in there, probably the piston's seal. Repairable, but you have a spare. Lube it up and test it. I wonder what all that stringy crap is...weird.

PM me on the manual

Yeah..I'd swap test the spare housing (loaded with clutches, never test empty) and if it works good.. put your clutches into that one. You can test just that one housing based on the holes in the shaft end of it.

But what about the washers? Why are they being shredded? Maybe the bearing in the 4th support is shot?
the stringy crap is the washer being shredded.

That, I'm not sure about. I'd think either something went in wrong or .. as you mention maybe a bad bearing if that rides one.

I'm actually not going to use the input and third housing from my extra trans. Because I lost third gear in that one 2..
Would you know how to replace the piston at the bottom. Compress the springs. Take the ring out? Cause I did that and it's not coming out

Are you repairing this in the vehicle or was the transmission removed? I can tell from the picture that the driven sprocket support is not sitting below the case surface so something is not engaged all the way or out of place- and that would definitely cause your plastic thrust washers to fail. The are melting because there is no end play and why they look the way they do. This is going to cause several problems and may be why 3rd has been an issue. Clutches don't often just fail, so if the old ones were bad there is a reason for it and that is what needs fixed. You can air test the input and 3rd frictions right at the drum itself which will eliminate leakage through the teflon seals between the input drum and support, then you can air test through the support. There is always going to be a small amount of leakage but it should apply and hold. This is all much easier to do with the transmission out of the vehicle and standing on end so the driveline is pointing up and down and is always the way to check for proper endplay. The sprag is a concern also. The two outer races spin and lock in opposite directions from each other and neither should ever spin the same direction as the other so you should recheck that and verify.

Yes. It is still mated to the engine. And the driven sprocket support is flush. Is it supposed to be further in? Cause when you put on the channel plate and tighten the bolts doesn't it all sit flush?
And the sprag. I kind of worded it wrong. If you have the sprag in your hand it should only turn one way and not the other right? Cause that's how it is.

There's nothing better than getting advice from a trans guy with years and years of experience.

The support should sit flush. I am sure that what Dave is saying about something not having the proper end play (Bill's translation: a little space) is why those bushings cooked. Being in the car, something may not be sitting quite right. I did clutches etc on one hanging from a hoist with motor still attached and it was much more difficult than having the tail shaft pointing down to the ground.