Thread: Help with dropping the cradle

I posted on a couple of older threads, but haven't heard anything, so here goes:

1999 with the 3.8l: I've got my engine properly supported with support bars, and I've disconnected the steering from the hubs. This may sound like a stupid question, but neither my Haynes manual or the instructions I've read on another thread mention disconnecting the strut from the hubs. Maybe it's too obvious to mention, but as a newbie at front wheel drive cars, I'd rather ask the stupid questions than do unnecessary work. It looks like the suspension comes down with the cradle, and I need to disconnect at the hub.

(part of the reason I ask this is that I had a shop take out the old tranny before they tried to pull some fast ones, and I got the car back to do an install myself. The shop didn't touch the hub connection or strut connections on top, but they doubtless have equipment I don't)

Without the struts disconnected, won't they try to hold the cradle in place? Am I missing something here, or is Haynes? thanks.

If someone would be willing to communicate directly and answer some questions about dropping the cradle, I'd be grateful. Email is nlinesk8s@yahoo.com.

regards, Sean

Disconnecting the nut below the bearing would have been easier (whoops), but I disconnected the struts and removed the whole cradle, with hubs and struts. At least I have a lot of room to work now <g>.

As I don't have a professional lift, to lower the cradle/suspension I used four jackstands, and alternated a jack front and back while ratcheting down the stands. Slow, but it allowed me to check for things not disconnected as I went.

...Like my bottom engine mount, which the $%*& shop didn't disconnect, and which is destroyed. At least it's fairly cheap to replace.

Okay, a question: Just how do I get the tranny back in place? I'm thinking of using a 1 1/2" inch thick board, with four jackstands, and alternating a jack from end to end, to slowly get the tranny back up. Finding the center of gravity and hoping it's stable with a single jack underneath looks like a recipe for an emergency room visit. Anyone have a better idea or past experience to share? thanks.

Well, I've got my transmission attached again, so I'll proceed to putting the cradle back. 18mm screw heads for the transmission and cradle bolts? In all my years of working on cars I've never used an 18; most tool kits jump from 17 to 19.

Also, the a** bolt. I left it out. There was no way I was going to remove the exhaust just for a chance at getting at that bolt.

I have a question tho'. As I just got a box of parts back from the same shop I retrieved my car from, there's one or two things I don't recognize. There are a couple of plastic bushings with slightly flanged ends. These might go to the swaybar link connection (which the shop removed), but I'm not sure.

Also, do I need to loctite the flywheel to torque converter screws?

thanks,

Sean

Thanks! I have a long extension. I'll give it a shot.

regards,

Sean.

p.s. I broke the shifter cable at the bracket by being clumsy. Happen to know where I could get new?

trannyman, thanks for the encouragement to get that final bolt in! I have a long extension and finally got it in.

Now that about everything is back together, how much fluid should I put in to start? The manual says 7qt capacity, but after five its way above the full level, FWIW.

thanks.

Are you sure? The Haynes I have lists the fluid capacity at 7 quarts. The transmission is from a salvage yard; I presume it was basically dry, as it had no plugs in the fluid ports. I don't know how much fluid might be retained in the transmission cooler loop, but not much came out when I unplugged the tube ends to put them in the transmission.

At this point the fluid is well above the "add" line on the dipstick. I'll check it as soon as the car is started, but I just want to avoid adding too little.

Thanks! Just had to be sure. I've put 5 quarts of fluid in. I'm assuming that there's still fluid in the cooling loop, as it did leak when the lines were unplugged; it just wasn't gushing out though.

I'll start the car to get things circulating, then check the fluid asap.

right you are! After adding, waiting, checking, adding....the total was right at 10 quarts. There must have been some fluid still in the tranny and cooling loop.

Here's a question: As I got this tranny from a breaking yard (cherry auto in Cleveland), should I go ahead and get the filter replaced?

I went to Jiffylube, was quoted $139 if I provided the filter, went to Autozone for a filter and gasket, and did it myself. Messy, but worth it for $100 in my pocket. It is SO nice to finally not hear whining and gears jamming.