Thread: Question here

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  1. #1 Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    I have been searching the forums and looking about no overdrive, I read several threads about it. I checked the fluid and it looks brand new with no burning odor and seemed to be particle free, the main thing is if I drive the car on the highway around 3-3.5k rpms, will that hurt the engine and what kind of gas mileage approximately do you think I'm getting? Thanks in advance! I have the grand Prix GT with the 3800 non supercharged by the way.
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  2. #2 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Wont hurt the motor, you'll get reduced MPG's do to the rpms you'll be running, maybe more around 25 freeway.

    Like I has said in your intro thread, yor are on borrowed time with the trans, either rebuild now, or just run the trans into the ground and get it rebuilt later on, but your mpgs will be worse in that time.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  3. #3 Re: Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    25 is better than 16 or 17 I was getting with my truck..lol Thanks again Fivefinger!
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  4. #4 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    It's not borrowed time because the 4th hub shaft stripped out. That's a totally normal occurence on the trans.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  5. #5 Re: Question here 
    GT Level Member addzradd's Avatar
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    My guess would be the Torque Convertor Clutch, or TCC solenoid.
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  6. #6 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addzradd View Post
    My guess would be the Torque Convertor Clutch, or TCC solenoid.
    Why guess when we know it's the 4th clutch hub that is the most common failure on a 4T65E?
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  7. #7 Re: Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    It's not borrowed time because the 4th hub shaft stripped out. That's a totally normal occurence on the trans.
    So the tranny shouldn't fail because of that you are saying? I have to drive 70 miles one way twice a week, I was making sure that I "shouldn't" have any problems then. I didn't see any flakes in the tranny fluid when I checked it, the check engine light is on and a couple tranny techs told me to get it scanned first to make sure what is the true problem. Thanks for all the replies and tips everyone, cool forum!
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  8. #8 Re: Question here 
    GTX Level Member cerick08GP's Avatar
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    Your tranny WILL fail it is just a matter of time now, typically it takes a few months to eat itself from where you are now. How lucky do you feel? Schedule a re-build now

    Ten years of continuous driving excitement and counting!
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  9. #9 Re: Question here 
    GrandPrix Junkie
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    Yes, definietly get the codes scanned, but that won't bring back OD. If the clutch hub is stripped then it's toast. I drove my 00 GT w/o overdrive for almost 2 years and the trans still worked fine when I took it out, minus the OD issue. I drive 100mi. a day (to and from work) minimum and am a telecom field tech, so I usually average about 600mi. a week and was never stranded by it.

    Will it die? Sure, at some point. When? No one knows. Just sharing my personal experience. Your results may vary.
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  10. #10 Re: Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    Thanks again for all your comments! My cousin has a connection with a guy that rebuilds transmissions for a living, he said he would charge me a $1k to take it out, rebuild it and install it.
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  11. #11 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Once you have it scanned. If there's no codes and you don't have 4th, it's likely just a 4th clutch hub. Which means. You can lower that side of the cradle and fix it. The tech buddy that could do the rebuild, could also fix this in a few hours. Once you know what is or isn't...then take a look at the post I put up about fixing a 4th clutch hub shaft.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  12. #12 Re: Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Once you have it scanned. If there's no codes and you don't have 4th, it's likely just a 4th clutch hub. Which means. You can lower that side of the cradle and fix it. The tech buddy that could do the rebuild, could also fix this in a few hours. Once you know what is or isn't...then take a look at the post I put up about fixing a 4th clutch hub shaft.
    I had it scanned today and it had no codes, except low voltage map sensor in which mine has the AFH50M-04 in my car and wonder if the AFH50M-05 would work in it. Anyway, I bought a bad tranny for 50$ and I made sure the codes matched also to make sure it's the same tranny and I'll have it rebuilt while I'm driving my car to avoid lots of down time.
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  13. #13 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Hold on there guy.

    That's a part number for a MAF sensor, which can and will effect your shifting etc. Fix the issue before teh trans and maybe your trans is fine.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  14. #14 Re: Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    Sorry, I didn't articulate this post very well. I know the maf sensor and what that consist of,that's where my only code was coming from. Now about the tranny, my car goes 1-3 decent but in overdrive the rpms drop down to 1k till i hit the gas again and then it jumps up to over 3k before it grabs to accelerate.
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  15. #15 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Torque, load, etc etc etc all play into what gear your pcm selects. I'm merely suggesting that before you swap a trans to find out it's not your issue. That you might want to rule out that maf sensor first.

    Let's pretend in Dec I swapped a perfectly fine 186K mile trans, because of a coil pack. I couldn't see any issues and changed the trans based on mileage etc. New trans did the same stuff, I shook my head and started shotgunning parts until something worked.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  16. #16 Re: Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    I had the car over 70 on the highway and drove it over 80 miles, the car accelerates great and runs great, just the no overdrive and my local transmission guy thinks the od is toast due to all the trannys like mine he worked on. I figured i might as well have a new rebuilt one anyway since ill be commuting 140 miles twice a week at least.
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  17. #17 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Ahhh I understand.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  18. #18 Re: Question here 
    SE Level Member rcman29's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Ahhh I understand.
    Thanks for all your post, it has helped me. What is the difference between a afh50m-04 and afh50m-05 maf sensor?
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  19. #19 Re: Question here 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I'm not positive. One is either the post vs postless or it's the NA vs SC. Honestly never paid that close of attention to find out.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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