Thread: 4t65e HD Rebuild (Question is for Trannyman95 or any other Tranny GURU)

For a shifting clutch, like the manual band IF pulling down for engine braking, the HE friction material is more durable. For the bands I have no preferrence though if you have to buy them they are very close in price and the HE lining is a little better. If the forward or reverse bands are burnt it was for a reason, not because the band wasnt doing its job. I have also find that HE linings generally like a little higher pressure to get the job done for shifting clutches but they will tolerate slippage or slow engagements much better than normal tan or paper linings will. HE frictions are great and I have been using them in 700R4/4L60E performance builds for a long time with great results.

Trannyman

I want to make sure I have no valve body issues down the road as I understand a lot of people seem to have issues when they get higher mileage. What would you replace in the valve body:

All 4 sensors
Upgraded Boost valve
Upgraded TC valve

Ect:


I don't have the tranny experience that you have to know what I should do and what I shouldn't do because its over kill.

I always replace all 4 solenoids during a rebuild regardless of the history of them. Its worth the small extra cost to cover your back here instead of a month after the trans is back in the car have a solenoid crap out and then look at all of the labor involved! Its just foolish in my eyes to gamble some something like solenoids. There are companies with actual valve body testing machines that will run warm trans fluid through and test the functionality of the valve body and solenoids and if that checks ok then they are probably safe to reuse. A lot of aftermarket reman valve body companies do this and it is perfectly fine. Most guys dont have a $50K machine to do this so replacing the solenoids is the best and safest option. I also upgrade the boost valve with one the comes in the Transgo kit, or if not using that one then a Sonnax boost valve goes in. The I replace both the TCC switch valve and regulated apply valves. Most 98+ valve bodies have hard anodized valves, dark in color, and they seem to hold up pretty well and not wear like the earlier ones but the valve body bores still wear and cause problems. On the 97-mid 00 valve bodies there are forward and reverse servo boost valves and I like replacing as a minimal the forward one with a Sonnax valve to make sure the forward band has good solid apply. Something else to make sure you check out is the pressure switch manifold. This can be tested with an ohm meter or one that tests continuity and half of the switches are normally open while the other half are normally closed. After that is verified and the assembly is good I replace all of the oring seals on the switches. New ones are included in the gasket kit. There are other valves that can be replaced but I just never has seen the necessitiy of them. If the valve body is in that bad of shape and cant be cleaned up then its best to replace it.

I thought the transgo shift kit just has springs and spacers that go into the accumulator. I installed the wbody shift kit about 1.5 years ago and I'm going to remove that and install the transgo in its place. So your saying that the trango kit has more than just springs and spacers in it?

I was just happy posts weren't disappearing like clubgp

LOL I feel ya on that note!

I've noticed in my trans it occasionally shudders in drive when I take off. It almost feels like wheel hop but I'm convinced its the trans. Trans has 70k on it right now and it happens probably less than 5% of the time. It occurs most often at like 30% or so of take off power. If I mash the gas it just breaks the tires loose. But if I decide to accelerate a bit quick it does this.

What are the likely areas of concern. I have a wbody shift kit with DHP 1.5 bin file which is currently not been modified. I have a snap on scanner so I can read a bunch of trans data if necessary. No trans codes as of right now.