Thread: 99 gtp trans issues

If you're pondering whether or not to dig into things, check this video out (note, he makes this look easy) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31Q8qJvBn-M

Forgot to mention to be careful with that tool I mentioned, I usually improvise with parts of "modified" steels. Basically, one the second clutch piston spring, you'll usually bend it with this tool unless you "extend" it with some metal ring (you'll see what I'm talking about on the rebuild dvd).

The biggest advice I can give though is to be EXTREMELY organized and take pictures of EVERY step. Pay special attention to the spring colors and such when removing. I wasted hours on my first rebuild because I didn't do this (so learn from my mistakes!). Clean everything as you go (a parts cleaner helps a lot, pick up the cheap desktop one at harbor freight, some brushes, and tack cloths) and label/bag it as you go too. Organization is key.

It's not a necessity, but I'd have a good set of six sided sockets because some of the bolts tend to round off (especially the ones reference in the video). Use lock-tight on everything putting it back together and use ample assembly lube and fluid where needed.

You will want to flush your transmission cooler portion of your radiator, and get a new torque converter (which is why it ended up costing me $500 total)

One thing the video didn't go over at all is what to do when starting up the new transmission. You'll want to fill the new torque converter with about a quart or two of fluid (till it's full), install everything, pour about half of what you need in, start the car and let it idle and immediately dump the rest in like mad! Slow when you're about done and periodically check levels as it warms up. Take for a short drive, re-check levels, and done!

I recommend DEX6. Makes a world of difference. Feel free to PM me with any questions!

Originally Posted by wstefan20

If you're pondering whether or not to dig into things, check this video out (note, he makes this look easy) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31Q8qJvBn-M

Forgot to mention to be careful with that tool I mentioned, I usually improvise with parts of "modified" steels. Basically, one the second clutch piston spring, you'll usually bend it with this tool unless you "extend" it with some metal ring (you'll see what I'm talking about on the rebuild dvd).

The biggest advice I can give though is to be EXTREMELY organized and take pictures of EVERY step. Pay special attention to the spring colors and such when removing. I wasted hours on my first rebuild because I didn't do this (so learn from my mistakes!). Clean everything as you go (a parts cleaner helps a lot, pick up the cheap desktop one at harbor freight, some brushes, and tack cloths) and label/bag it as you go too. Organization is key.

It's not a necessity, but I'd have a good set of six sided sockets because some of the bolts tend to round off (especially the ones reference in the video). Use lock-tight on everything putting it back together and use ample assembly lube and fluid where needed.

You will want to flush your transmission cooler portion of your radiator, and get a new torque converter (which is why it ended up costing me $500 total)

One thing the video didn't go over at all is what to do when starting up the new transmission. You'll want to fill the new torque converter with about a quart or two of fluid (till it's full), install everything, pour about half of what you need in, start the car and let it idle and immediately dump the rest in like mad! Slow when you're about done and periodically check levels as it warms up. Take for a short drive, re-check levels, and done!

I recommend DEX6. Makes a world of difference. Feel free to PM me with any questions!

I'm not new to the transmission as I'm a GM trans tech, have been in a few of them just never ran across this issue. I'm more familiar with all of the newer 6 speeds. I will be putting a new torque converter in. Any ideas where to get a good one And also rebuild kits avasilable for these?

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Originally Posted by mao1848

I'm not new to the transmission as I'm a GM trans tech

Haha well you probably know more than I do! lol So used to people on here never having touched these transmissions!

I've had good luck with ProKing, but unless you're going for performance, I doubt it matters much. I know I'm going to get a lot of flack from recommending this, but I bought all of my parts on Ebay. I went with Borg Warner solenoids and frictions. I'd recommend Sonnax Lube tube retainer, transgo shift kit, superior solutions AFL valve (because it works and you don't have to get the valve overbored and sleeved by a machine shop), and sonnax boost valve. I can't remember where I got it, but there's a company that makes an "extender" pin for the forward servo pin that reduces the risk of it breaking the forward band (you do need to file this down though because it comes way too long). I'll see if I can find it again. I also replaced all friction bands, hardened 4th, needle bearings, bushings, etc. Look on Sonnax's website under their "vacuum test" section. It will highlight troublesome valves that should be thoroughly inspected and cleaned for binding. (wish I had one of these vacuum test kits)

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Haha well you probably know more than I do! lol So used to people on here never having touched these transmissions!

I've had good luck with ProKing, but unless you're going for performance, I doubt it matters much. I know I'm going to get a lot of flack from recommending this, but I bought all of my parts on Ebay. I went with Borg Warner solenoids and frictions. I'd recommend Sonnax Lube tube retainer, transgo shift kit, superior solutions AFL valve (because it works and you don't have to get the valve overbored and sleeved by a machine shop), and sonnax boost valve. I can't remember where I got it, but there's a company that makes an "extender" pin for the forward servo pin that reduces the risk of it breaking the forward band (you do need to file this down though because it comes way too long). I'll see if I can find it again. I also replaced all friction bands, hardened 4th, needle bearings, bushings, etc. Look on Sonnax's website under their "vacuum test" section. It will highlight troublesome valves that should be thoroughly inspected and cleaned for binding. (wish I had one of these vacuum test kits)

Alright I'll have to look into that. Not planning on doing many mods, it's my daily so maybe a few little things but I'm not going to go crazy with it. Want it to still be reliable and fun. I'm used to these trans in impala and other things that dont have as much power. So I'm never worried about it. But these supercharged are a little different story.

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