Thread: first turbo build questions

No you do not need a vacuum block. It just simplifies things.
TMK they do not come in the Z7 kit. As far as where can you get one.... Any hot rod shop or google for an online store that carries them. I'm sure Summit Racing sells them as we'll as Jegs.

i got mine on ebay, search vacuum distribution block or vacuum manifold, a 6-8 port is all you need.

No.

No they don't come with a catch and you want a dual check valve one, treadstone sells one and prj recommends the one from coloradospeed. To be honest I haven't found them from anyone else. Again the catch can isn't a necessity but its nice to have, both the z7 kit and the cartuning kit mention nothing about a catch can only that you need to plug the PVC hole in the tb and run a breather. You will still need to run a breather with or without the catch can though, no way around that one.

The dual check valve can stops oil from being blown back into the system under boost. The one from Coloradospeed comes with a nice bracket that attaches to the motor mount. It's made for an fbody but works with us too.

Is the coloradospeed catch can you are referring to the RX performance one? RX Performance Oil Catch Can w/ Dual Check Valve (GM LS-Series) [RXPDVCCLS] Just curious if I am looking at the right one. Anyone have a diagram or pic of where to hook it up on our cars? (l26 manifold setup here) Thanks! Also, anyone using one of the rx performance check valve breather oil caps? Think those might work with our cars too? keep oil from blowing onto the valvecovers under boost etc.

yes thats the one! and i have mine set up exactly like this ClubGP Message Forum troubleshooting

youll still get some oil spray but not nearly as much. and you still need to run the breathers on the oil cap and the pvc nipple on the back of the l26 manifold

I know max (intrigue98) very well and he always buys top quality stuff. Plus his turbo is brand new never used so you want have to worry about possibly rebuilding it. The other kit has a liquid cooled turbo which means you need to run coolant to it, I'm not a fan of having to run extra coolant lines but its just a personal preference. Plus his kit is used, it says for 500 miles but why go through all that for 500 miles. And I think the Borg Warner is a better turbo but I'm not positive on that. You'll want bigger than 65# injectors anyways so that doesn't really matter. So you'll be able to sell off some of the extra stuff from either kit to get money for the plogs and injectors.

I personally would go with max's kit because of the new turbo, its not liquid cooled, and in good friends with him. Plus he's local to me so I'd save on not having it shipped

Ball bearing turbo is the way to go, but since you are just starting either will suffice and you can upgrade later.

I have a short one on mine. That reminds me I need to hit up Autozone and get a new one. I'll probably just go down the ricer aisle and pick one up.

Go to k&n's website and you can look up the part number by putting in the sizes you need, then look the part number up on amazon.com or eBay for the best price.

I have a manual boost controller and its mounted in the engine bay. Kinda of a PITA to turn it up then go WOT then get out and up it some more till I find the amount I'm looking for. Price wise its hard to beat the cost of a manual one. You could in theory mount it inside the cabin area though.

As far as your heads question goes. Yes for your build if wanting to maximize power then get some heads.

heads are always a good idea, cnc will be fine but if you have the extra cash a set of stage 3 heads is always nice.

I have the AEM tru boost controller, its electronic and kinda wierd to use at first. Same idea as the manual one were you set the numbers (which they dont set to psi like the more expensive ones) go for a run then adjust until you get what your looking for. I got it used on ebay but its around the same price as the greddy ones but its a gauge and blends in. Most people end up with a manual one because the electronic ones are $250-600 for a good one.

Stock head gaskets are good to about 400hp on a turbo set up, if you think youll be close to that or over then go with the mls gaskets, thickness is a personal preference really.

Originally Posted by Swiggles

Stock head gaskets are good to about 400hp on a turbo set up, if you think youll be close to that or over then go with the mls gaskets, thickness is a personal preference really.

Try more like 500

I was going by what zzp had on there site and then went a little lower to be safe.