Thread: 04 impala ss vs k24 civic si hatch

Also my car made 235 whp on a 90* day and humid on a low reading mustang dyno with stock exhaust from the headers back to the stock mufflers...must really be starving huh

when people say fwi, it just makes me think that when the engine is commanding more air flow, it has to travel through more tubing. not necessarily starving, but it does take a little longer to get the air it needs....

The only reason I say fwi in my Sig is because the filter is so dang big and long that it extends partially into the fender but not much

i run a 9" as well, but mine doesn't go into the fw at all...

http://m.facebook.com/?w2m&_rdr#!/ph..._ft=1305730180

^ link fail. that's a mobile address bud

hopefully that link works, its a pic of my intake

Originally Posted by vailskier3

^ link fail. that's a mobile address bud

Well I'm at work posting from my cell phone oh well ill do it later I guess

Originally Posted by 04boostedindyss

Also my car made 235 whp on a 90* day and humid on a low reading mustang dyno with stock exhaust from the headers back to the stock mufflers...must really be starving huh

Actually with rockers, a 3.4"...and a tune...I'd be dissapointed. My buddy's car made 240 with a basic 3.4" setup...and a couple top swap guys on 3.6" pulleys made over 250.

Mustang dyno....

The impala made 235 on the mustang dyno. Wich is the same one we have been using for years on all our other car. And it actually come out to a 265 on a dynojet. This is at 13 percent difference.

thank you for clearing that up for them jim! post the pic of my intake when you get a chance, and maybe one of yours to.

here yah go. my impala ss intake
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3562441_n.jpg

Well there's the issue...lol. The intake might not be as restrictive but the corrogated rubber tubing is where the restriction is since there is tons for turbulence created with all those interruptions in the flow...so...if you keep the same tubing...get a smoother coupler and toss it on there...I do however recommend an open cone at your mod level...you will benefit from it....especially when you go under the 3.4"

By open cone do you mean just putting the filter on the end of the silicone rubber elbow...btw I do have a 45* silicone coupler under my bed that may work...I'll take a look at it when I get home

Right...your looking for something like this...on my external MAF/LS1 TB setup...



And...on my DD...

Originally Posted by 04boostedindyss

By open cone do you mean just putting the filter on the end of the silicone rubber elbow...btw I do have a 45* silicone coupler under my bed that may work...I'll take a look at it when I get home

yes, basically. he means get rid of the corrugated tube piece with a short elbow if you can, and slap that cone right at the end of it...unless you can get the cone to fit right off of the TB...

The cone will fit right on the tb but I'd have to figure out a good place to put the iat sensor. And thanks for the pics, only thing is wouldn't that set up suck in a lot more heat being the filter is closer to the header cross over pipe?..I understand that it will flow more air ..and yes I will ditch the factory silicone coupler

I've tested it...I only run a few degrees over the temp outside...actually this morning it was 57* and my air temps were within 2* of 60* driving the highway to work. When sitting though...sure it'll run up...but your not hammering on your car in traffic

Ya thats what my car is doing now LOL, sitting in traffic/red lights sucks especially before a potential race...that's the only advantage a cold air intake/box....but not worth the money if u ask me....so what do you think put the filter right on the tb and put a small hole in the rubber part of the cone for iat sensor?