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On my second bag. Glad I'm subscribed 'cause I'll be tackling this soon...won't have to search for the info.
67goat
If this is the problem tell your brother I said thanks. LOL
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On my second bag. Glad I'm subscribed 'cause I'll be tackling this soon...won't have to search for the info.
67goat
If this is the problem tell your brother I said thanks. LOL
C'mon Rico.. just ask. You know I got pics of it all. Hell I even have pics of modded N* cable bracket etc etc etc etc.
Feel free to peruse my photobucket account
BillBoost37
Boosted
I'd suggest albums
Build up misc
Modding Visits (most of them have great stuff)
Helpful pics
Stay away from anything labeled transmission (in case the curse spreads through the cable line) lol
OK, get an extra few bags of popcorn - I got a lot coming. Multiple issues:
1) SES light triggered by ignition issue in cylinder 6. (brother replaced wire and coil) Went for test drive, new scan shows ignition issue in cylinder 1 (and hot cylinder). Tonight will be changing the rest of the coils and wires. I suspected the JY ones might have an issue in the first place;
2) SES light cleared, BUT the following code comes up -
DTC U1064 Loss of Communications with DIM
Refer to Data Link Connector (DLC) Schematics
Circuit Description
The class 2 serial data line communicates information between modules. Each module connected to the etc. etc. etc..........
Long story short, this code is in memory and he was not able to clear this message code.
3) Back to the PCV - The nipple behind the PCV on the SC is plugged. My brother found the plug to be split, so he put a new plug on it. I mentioned that this is supposed to be the clean air source for the PCV (correct???) and ported to the TB. He is a bit dubious and says there is vacuum already at the PCV because he opened the PCV cover and felt vacuum with his thumb, so he's thinking internal port like on a Gen 3, so we have Click and Clack here trying to figure out which is right?
Pictures -
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billboost has spoken, this is the word of god, believe what he says.
there are quite a few threads on this topic just search around you'll find them, one is a sticky i think.
what i believe you have there is a gen V swap using a l67 throttle body. well at least thats the way you need to deal with it.
if you look at the l32 throttle body stock set up, or in the plastic air tube ( i think, i could be wrong here) it should have the nipple on it for the line they are saying to drill and tap into the l67 tb
heres one http://www.grandprixforums.net/eaton...5-a-49039.html
the part you are looking for from that thread...
What custom work do I have to do to make this work?
Well, good thing you asked!!
1) First off, you have to decide what do with the EVAP sensor. As you can see from the pictures, the Gen V has the EVAP sensor directly on the blower, whereas on the L67, this sensor sits independently from the blower. You have three choices:
- Utilize the Gen V sensor (can only be done with L67 TB, you will need to plug the evap port on the tb. Then remove the hose that runs from the tb to the old evap. Then plug the other line onto the l32 evap)
- Utilize your Gen III sensor and block off the Gen V sensor outlet (the intake manifold block-off plate offered by ZZP is a perfect fit)
- Delete EVAP codes from PCM (requires a tuner), and not run any EVAP at all!
2) Second modification you must make is the PCV system extension. If you look at the Gen V, and locate the EVAP sensor, look to the right, and you'll see a small nipple. This is part of your PCV system, this MUST be utilized, or you WILL have a vacuum leak!! Below are your choices:
- You can run a tube from this nipple, to the air intake, this inlet must be located behind the MAF sensor, but before your throttle butterfly. In the LS1/Northstar setups, this is easily done by threading a tube into the air intake between the MAF sensor and the throttle body. On the L67 throttle body, it’s a little more involved. There is a brass plug on the bottom of the l67 tb, drill out the plug then tap it.
- You can cap this nipple off, and run a breather on the front valve cover. (***NOTE*** this allows un-metered air to enter the PCV system, and may cause problems down the road)
Give your brother a beer for helping this much. Then remind him that he put a solid TB adapter plate and therefore no "internal" pcv can exist. Get the cap off there and route that line to a location between the maf and throttle plate. Which leaves you at drilling into the bottom of your TB to make it right.
Now on that evap. There's two things you can do.
1. Remove the Gen V evap and plug the hole in the charger with a block off plate.
2. Take your evap off the SC to alt bracket, connect the hose from the fuel tank to the Gen V Evap, connect the red electrical connector to the Gen V evap and put that plug from the pcv nipple on the TB nipple. See...now it didn't go to waste.
As for the feeling like vacuum is present. You really shouldn't feel any vacuum or pressure when you pull a vc cap. Unless you get a crankcase vac pump.
Fix these two extremely small things and that may take care of a lot of problems for you. If your brother isn't convinced....tell him "BillBoost did this same thing Mon-Thur of this week and that car runs great. Bill suggested I give you beer and route a couple lines myself, here's a 30 rack for being my brother. Now please sit here and watch me struggle with a vacuum line until it hurts you too much to watch, then help me. And .....bring me bandaids." This should get him to have mercy on you and want to shut you up in order to leave him alone on this issue. The work will be done.
Thanks Much for all your help guys - this is all exactly what I was looking for. Hope you understand I originally checked about the swap on another forum and there was no where near this type of detailed information found there, nor the additional mods required. I just hope I didn't blow any seals or gaskets while driving w/o proper pcv setup. Without this info, would have not known this mod was needed - I'll stop harping on my bro as welland buy him a few this weekend
. If you guys are ever in town, I'll buy one for you as well. THANKS! ...I'll let you know how it turns out.
Goat...I've been to those other forums.. mighta been banned from one of 'em...lol Ever been banned for helping a guy? I have.
How dare you Bill?!?!
You probably would have been banned from this site like 7000 times if it had the same policies.
I can only imagine. I have seen people easily get their feathers ruffled, especially on-line when people easily mis-interpret things. Luckily my brother and I grew up needling each other so we have thick skin when it comes to cars.
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With that, we can also admit our mistakes. So what happened anyway?
Sunday morning about to head out to Mother's day festivities. Update on car - yesterday changed spark plug wire #6 (twice). Seems defective wire was the biggest culprit for ignition issues. Smoothed car out right away. We actually wound up tapping to the top of the L67 TB for the pcv breather. Used 3/8 NPT tapper there. Tapping here we only made a few threads, so used gray permatex on the threads of the brass fitting. We thought better here since bottom fitting was a bit small for breather. Ran a 5/16 hose to the SC nipple for tight fit on both ends and done. No vacuum leaks, no other issues. Drove about 15 miles total yesterday and no other issues whatsoever. Finally romped on the L32 fully after the install and the world now just seems right again when your tires break loose from a 30 mph roll. Went to take wife's 92 year old grandmother out for dinner, so having a smooth ride was nice as well. Today time for rest of family. Thanks for all your help! Hope you all have a great day!!
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I'd have to look at the top of the TB to see what you tapped into. You may have tapped into the wrong area, might not be too wrong though.
Ok, I looked. Right..cause everyone has spare parts laying around to look at. Don't tell me you don't. LOL
That hole does drop down into the TB between the maf and throttle plate. This is good. Now the potential bad: it feeds air to the IAC for idle control. Therefore if you are getting any oily residue (common with pcv) you will end up coating the IAC valve and possibly gunking it up much quicker than usual.
I'd say it's something to keep in mind. I see two ways to work with this.
1. PCV catch can between the nipple and the throttle body.
2. Know if your idle gets goofy that it's time to clean it.
OK, good to know. I'll see what the parts store has in terms of an inline filter. On the plus side, car still runs good since the fixes.![]()
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