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03-27-2016
yup, just back the nuts off some pull the pipe to make a crack 1/2 inch if you can get it that large. fire it up see if it will run longer then it has been. you can drive it, will sound like crap but can be driven some.
and there should be no smoke out your exhaust at all.
03-27-2016
Ok I got the pipe seperated a good 1/3 of an inch, sounded like a hot rod but still turned off after trying three times. I didn't mention before that smoke was coming out of the muffler in a normal way before doing this check not sure if that matters.
03-27-2016
scan to see if you got a new code or not yet. somethings up.
03-27-2016
nothing new same codes came up p0418 p0420.
03-27-2016
P0418 is your secondary air pump solenoid.
The p0420 is the o2 after the cat. It just measures the change between the frost and 2nd sensor to make sure the cat is working.
The p0420 has only tripped for me when I removed the cat or the secondary o2 sensor died.
Normally you can use a spark plug non fouler and space it out of the exhaust flow so it won't trip but you have a stock exhaust system. So there is no need to trick the ecu. You need to find out the cause for this.
Is the air pump causing your car to stall? I never dealt with one before
03-27-2016
ive not heard of the air pump or a rear o2 sensor make it stall out.
let it run till it stalls, leave the key to run and check for fuel pressure at the rail again, gas should spray out, not just dribble out.
03-27-2016
i tried this yesterday when you told me to check it and it sprayed out.Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
03-27-2016
you checked after it stalled out?
03-27-2016
No. I know. But those are your codes. I would work on that
03-27-2016
i checked yesterday when you told me too after it had been working fine and it stalled out the first time. Now after i disconnected the dp it did not spray it only flowed out with weak pressure. I hope this has something to do with it.
03-27-2016
sounding like a beat fuel pump. sadly i think your year the tank has to be dropped.
reach under the car and beat on the bottom of the gas tank, some times it shocks the pump back to life for a while.
03-27-2016
does fixing the pump require metal cutting or welding?
03-27-2016
not at all. its pretty easy really, pinch 2 or 3 hose ends and pull them off the pump top, unplug two plugs, remove a clamping ring and its comes out.
the only cutting would be if you want to cut a hole in the trunk to get to the pump, instead of dropping the gas tank.
how 97-05 iirc are, theres a panel you unbolt in the trunk floor near the back seat and the pump is under it.
03-27-2016
I was just watching a yt vid of a guy with a gp in those years who had similar symptoms i saw him working through the trunk. I guess he was losing power when accelerating at high speeds. is there anyway to be more sure this could be the culprit?
03-27-2016
typically if theres no pressure after it stalled, the pump is bad. thing is they will work sporadically.
you can get a free rental fuel pressure gauge from a parts store and hook it up and watch the pressure as its running and stalling, the engine needs a min of 32 psi to run. if its lower then that, then drops off and it stalls the pump sounds bad for sure.
and for fun, the large harness plug on the lim from the coils, unplug it and plug it back in 3 times, see if that clears it up. i just had a issue with that plug myself, it kills the fuel pump. but i had some messed up codes pop up with it. never know, worth a shot.
03-27-2016
The one with the little screw in the middle right?ill try that now.
03-27-2016
no, the fat one that lays on the lim. its got a tab that hold it together.
03-27-2016
Im not sure which one that is by lim you mean lower intake manifold right?
03-27-2016
theres a few plugs near the valve cover, the biggest one to the far left next to the coils, undo that one a few times to clear out the plug connection
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