That makes sense. Maybe just try a couple degrees of timing, some good gas, and (possibly) a pulley swap. That sound safe?Originally Posted by GTPpower
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11-04-2014
That makes sense. Maybe just try a couple degrees of timing, some good gas, and (possibly) a pulley swap. That sound safe?
11-04-2014
Yeah it does. If I were you, I'd still pump the tank out. Last time I did it, my DIC said I only had 4 miles left on that tank, but I still pumped out 2 gallons of old gas.
11-04-2014
You shouldn't have to worry about pumping the tank. It's a giant pain in the ass for just going to the track.
Put a few gallons in, and run it. If it doesn't have any KR, put a different pulley on and have a blast.
11-05-2014
I think it's pretty easy, and well worth it. Only takes about an hour at the absolute most. I don't agree with diluting expensive race fuel.
11-05-2014
It's probably going to come down to opinion here. IMO putting a high octane like 116 in is kind of a waste (not totally), it doesn't necessarily mean that it will run better on the stock settings other than not having any detonation. If you are gonna put that kind of fuel in, you'll have to just run a ridiculously small pulley setup just to see the potential gains. Been there, done that.
Higher octane doesn't instantly mean high performance. You pretty much have to have just enough to keep bad things from happening.
BUT...when I first got my car, I may have been known to put 110 in it, with a 3.25 and rockers and dip into the mid/low 13's on a cool night in October...but that was soooo 2005.
11-06-2014
Thanks for the reply. Not sure where you got 116 octane from, but it wasn't me, although I did mention a splash of 110 for MY car.
Definitely not draining the tank, but I am going to have him run it low, then put some 100 octane unleaded in the GTP...probably 5 gallons and even if it has 2 gallons of 93 in the tank, it'll still average out to 98 octane which should be golden. He gets very little KR, even in the summer, with pump 93. We just started with the "winter blend" gas, so I'm not sure what that will do???
I haven't heard anymore pulley talk, so I'll just datalog and check for KR and probably just add a couple degrees of timing....or not.
11-07-2014
I probably got it mixed up with another thread.Thanks for the reply. Not sure where you got 116 octane from, but it wasn't me, although I did mention a splash of 110 for MY car.
I literally haven't heard of the happy knob in years. That's a blast from the past. LOL
They kinda died out once DHP brought out the tuner, and from what I remember they worked good for the time. Never messed with one personally, but I do remember seeing how they tended to skew the fuel trims once you started turning the 'temperature' down.
11-20-2014
This only happens in ve mode.
11-06-2014
Installing a "happy knob" with a tune that changes your IAT tables might be just what the doctor ordered. It'll let you adjust timing on the fly without re-flashing. Food for thought.
11-06-2014
I wan't to know how to do this
11-06-2014
I'm sure there are write-ups floating around... it's actually pretty simple. You usually have an IAT sensor that changes timing slightly based on incoming air temperature. Basically, the IAT is just a resistor that naturally changes resistance with air temperature.
So, instead of using the IAT sensor, you run the wires to a potentiometer with close to the same resistance range as the IAT (this is a knob that changes resistance based on how far you turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise. So basically you're tricking the computer into thinking the temperature outside is warmer or colder based on where you have the knob turned.
Normally, the computer will only change timing a little bit based on temperature... so you change the IAT adder table for timing to be more drastic. For example, set your base tune (without IAT adder) to 15* of timing at WOT. Then scale your IAT adder table between +0 and +5 (or whatever range you need) degrees based on temperature.
So, then you go to the street/track/whatever with the knob set to give +0 timing. Do a run, and check for KR. If no KR, turn the knob enough to give you 1 more degree of timing... and so forth, until you knock, then you can turn the knob back.
I'm sure someone else can describe it more accurately and give more precise instructions, but that's the gist of it.
11-07-2014
That's essentially how mine works. Pretty good explanation.
11-19-2014
looked like a 14.89 to me, but it was blurry.
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