Thread: Anyone have a tuned pcm for sell

Reptile can.

Before he retires.

However you'd need to ship it to him. Pretty sure if you cover costs it's like a hundred bucks. It's the original DHP files; which are worlds better than anything else canned/mail order PCM wise.

*sale*

Originally Posted by blackspike2710

*sale*

lol.

Originally Posted by jay07

im sorry im new on this i own an 07 GXP and i need a little help

Quality first post.

What do you need help with?

Originally Posted by jay07

im sorry im new on this i own an 07 GXP and i need a little help

why in the world you post in some guys parts wanted thread? post in the v8 section.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

why in the world you post in some guys parts wanted thread? post in the v8 section.

I think he's new to internet forums, but he put his location as a military base, so I'll help him out...

Originally Posted by jay07

Will I want to replace the oil pan gasket on my car i need some instructions on how to, its a 2007 pontiac grand prix gxp with the 5.3L in it, because the car is leaking oil. some steps and help would really help.

I too suffered from oil consumption (2 quarts within 3000 miles) with obvious oil burning issues as seen on my spark plugs. Per the TSB I de-gunked the rings with the top end cleaner soaking method. At that point I disabled DOD with HP Tuners about 15,000 miles ago. The oil consumption has now reduced to an acceptable 1/2 quart or less every 3000 miles and I can live with that. Now for the real test, I installed the updated oil pan gasket and will re-enable DOD. Only time will tell if this will fix the oil usage while using DOD.....


1.) Obviously raise and support vehicle.
2.) Do not put the jack stands under the engine cradle because you will need to drop the cradle 8-10 inches during this procedure. You will need the jack stands further back on the actual unibody frame rail of the car.
3.) Remove front wheels

4.) Drain oil and remove oil filter
5.) Use engine support bar as shown below. There is no hook loop in the front but there is a really big lip on the water pump housing that worked fine for me. The rear has an engine support loop you can’t miss it.

6.) Once engine is supported go back under the car. Remove the plastic shield that from the front bumper and inner fender covers.
7.) We need to access the engine cradle bolts (4) and there are two support brackets covering the 2 front ones. Remove (2) 13mm bolts and (1)15mm nut from driver’s side and passenger side of the car. You can’t miss this bracket it covers the bushing for the front engine cradle bolts. See below.

8.) Remove (6) engine mount 15mm nuts from front engine mount, rear engine mount, and transmission mount.

9.) Remove (SLOWLY) the (4) 18mm bolts that hold the engine cradle to the body of the car.
10.) At this point the cradle will lower about 8-10 inches, be careful with the abs harness wiring and the steering rack (hoses) etc. You need as much room as you can safely get.
11.) Unplug the low oil sensor and unclip the wire harness from the back of the engine block and the oil pan itself.

12.) Remove torque converter plastic shield from bottom. (1) 10mm bolt and a push clip.

13.) Remove all 10mm oil pan bolts. Spill as much oil on yourself and your driveway as possible. There is (1) 10 mm right next to the serpentine belt tensioner and it makes it difficult but not impossible to remove. To drop the oil pan and you need to wiggle it out. (You will have to be patient, it didn’t just come out I had to work at it.)

14.)To quote all my favorite books…..installation is reverse of removal. Torque spec for the cradle to body bolts is 133 ft-lbs

Sauce: ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-performance/1554343-oil-pan-gasket-per-oil-burning-tsb-how.html