Anyone wanna prove me wrong? Come see me
i have beers good food and free time
|
Anyone wanna prove me wrong? Come see me
i have beers good food and free time
I never did better than 26mpg on a 4 hour drive. My timing was stock and I cruise in the high 30's to 46*. I wouldn't add timing since I already have 05' tables. I just don't get it.
Jeff
No one wants to have some beers , steaks and whisky? Bone apple tea
sorry mitch i forgot about sending you the turbo tunes, theres some others ill send you too that might help you get started with this one too.
try a 3.6 pulley to start, shouldnt need to go back to stock size and do the maf tune. Might want to consider a N* throttle body for it too with those other mods.
the maf tune alone will get rid of some knock.
I'm hoping so, it's relearning the ltfts now. I've been kicking around the idea of doing a N* TB, but I haven't made a decision yet. Don't really want to put more money into the GTP though. And I'm looking forward to seeing the bins you send, I always like to see what others have done as a general guide.
Can take 200 miles, or 10 drive cycles for them to fully settle.
I've always wondered do we have to wait that long or can we just drive around for 20 mins while they settle?
This is what I don't understand. What difference does it make which program is used, if the fuel trims are wiped out when using either program the PCM is doing the relearning not the program, at that point it's not attached. Can someone explain the logic behind tuning with HPT allowing the the trims learn faster? When you disconnect the battery for an extended period of time it is going to have to learn the trims as well what makes any of these things any different?
Jeff
While DHP does take an annoyingly long time, you can use it on just about any w body or similar gm car...pretty sure there's some GA bins in the drop box. Lol
Ok, so quick question, when you are trying to dial in the ltfts, does that include when the car is in Deceleration, or is that allowed to go negative?
Also, if I want to use to use the A/C RPM/TPS disable available in tiny tuner, is there anything in particular I need to do or is it as simple as loading my bin, making the changes, and then flashing it with DHP?
I'm getting ready to do my first log for a MAF table adjustment.
you dont want pos long term trims, you want them on the neg side.
as ass backwards as it is, pos is lean, neg is rich.
id never touch those settings...whats the point? and yes, you make changes then flash it, tt saves it as a bin file. rename it and use that file a your new one.
Ok, I'm confused. Just took my real first scan, and I have KR showing up at 80 kpa?! That's not even into boost. I think my prior scan was in open loop. My O2 readings are also all over the place. I have from 30 all the way to 907, in some cases making 700 point swings between frames! I'm thinking that shouldn't be normal... Would this be a bad O2 or an exhaust leak somewhere? LTFTs still solidly negative -20 to -10 mostly.
o2 sensor are suppose to swing over and under 450mv. That is how they work, they swing lean or rich of stoich making corrections quickly.
Under heavy throttle the bank 1 o2 sensor should jump up to around 900mv as you are pushing alot more air and fuel into the cylinders, thus becoming much richer than 14.7:1 afr.
Well, that makes me feel better, but what would cause KR @ 80 kpa? Is my timing that far off? or would something else cause that?
your reading things wrong, the kpa has nothing to do with the kr. check your timing and ltft. if the fuel trim is a large pos # your lean.
as far as timing, you look at the rpm its starting at, and lower it accordingly, say you had 4º kr starting at 3200 rpm and it dont go away while wot. id pull 3º timing out of wot timing from 3200 to 6400.
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