Thread: Project LQ4 - V8 S10 - Sold.

Harumph.

Primered...



And painted...



Hoping to start reassembly tomorrow.

Begin...

almost looks like you know what your doing at this point lol finish up already, we need new vids........

Ha! Yeah. Very selective photo taking. I can fake it pretty good.

Well, the rear end is in place.



I worked just long enough to take the old one out and get the new(er) one in. I just wanted to be able to connect the brake hose to keep it from dripping. Also put in 1" blocks. Still going to be riding high, but that should bring it closer to level.

Rear end is fully installed. PCM is calibrated. Still need to top off the gear oil and adjust the track bars, but it's essentially ready to go.



Should be back to doing burnouts in the very near future.

Looks like rear end V2.0 is a success. No issues. Now that that's done, it's time to address the parking brake. I figure I can use the factory Ford 8.8 cable assembly and attach it to the S10 cable assembly under the cab. It's just braided cable after all. (Pictures when I get there). Just have to re-use the Ford cable bracket, after some modifications...



It will get welded to the S10 frame in the appropriate location for the geometry to work out.

Also, sold the 4:10 rear.



For $170.



That's going to fund the next step of the build... Trans cooler. More on that later. Thinking under bed with thermostatically controlled fan.

https://www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-H7B-.../dp/B003TQ3BG2

I tack welded the Explorer brake cable bracket to the frame. Should be just enough to hold permanently, or remove easily if needed.



Splash a little paint to make it look professional





This may or may not work, but for the 15 minutes it took to burn the bracket on to the frame, I'm willing to give it a shot. It's a zero dollar solution if it does work.

Originally Posted by BillBooost37

Couldn't you swap the gears from the new rear into the old and save the cutting/welding?

For sure. Certainly an option. Like I've seen you say many times before, anything is possible. I chose to modify a completely different rear end for a couple reasons;

To buy just the ring and pinion gear (even a used set) would be nearly half the cost of a complete junkyard rear
Installing a gear set requires tools I don't currently own (dial type inch lb torque wrench for the pinion pre-load), dial indicator with mag base...
I would also need an instal kit (crush sleeve and assorted shims to locate the carrier) There's about another $100. Give or take.
Probably the biggest reason is, I didn't want the hassle of setting up a new ring and pinion set. Backlash, tooth pattern, pre-load... Forget all that noise. Cut the tube twice, clamp on some angle iron and burn it in. It's a gamble, but it's a pretty safe gamble. Like hitting on 11.

Plus, I was able to sell (at full disclosure of it's condition) the 4:10 rear for $170. That's close to what I paid for the "new" 3:73 rear. I call that a wash.

Well I did end up moving the bracket back a couple inches. Looks like bracket placement is what determines/balances the timing between the right and left brake. I tried to get it as close as possible, but the spring should compensate for any error. Clamped a vise grip to the cable and gave it a tug. Stopped both wheels from spinning while in the air. So far, so good...



Just need to figure out what to do with the extra length.



My options:
1.) Try to find a pre-made 26" intermediate parking brake cable
2.) Try to find someone locally to swage (?) a new end on the existing cable
3.) Put a loop in the existing cable and secure with a cable clamp to "use up" the slack

I'm leaning toward #3 just for proof of concept. If the cable gets damaged, I can get another section at the yard.

id be all over #3 too, cut the cable in a clear area and use two cable clamps.

Yup. That's what I did. Too much effort to cut the cable though. Just make a loop and call it.



The concept proves good. The brakes hold........mostly. Enough to keep it from moving while idling in gear, but nothing more than that. I'm betting once I adjust the pads, the hold will be greatly improved. I'll do that next time I have the wheels off.

Up next will probably be the power steering pump rebuild. I'm like 99% sure my leak is from the seal between the pump and reservoir. Not sure you can get just that seal, but a complete rebuild kit is only $15. If you're going to take the time to pull the pump, might as well do a full rebuild.



And the part number



Seems to fit a ton of different GM vehicles. They put that Saginaw pump in a BUNCH of different vehicles. FWIW, Autozone had the best price I could find. (Top number)

Bought a new tool. No more borrowing the clapped out loaner from the parts store. I had to find one with a pretty decent reach. The pulley that I use has to be pressed on way beyond the end of the shaft to get the belt to line up. Best $25 I've ever spent. Ebay is great for lightly used specialty tools.



Power steering pump is rebuilt.





Set it up for a bench test to insure it worked. Full disclosure... I had to do it twice. First time I didn't get the snap ring fully seated in it's groove and the back cover popped off as soon as I started bleeding the system. Hence the bench test. I don't want to do it a 3rd time. Anyhow, a hand drill proves it works. I'll let it sit overnight to make sure there's no drips from the case.

Not in a hurry to get it done. Won't be able to (easily) pull it out of the garage for a couple days anyway. Waiting on a part...

work trailer has the same spring set up on the door, we had to replace the whole damn bar and both springs, but changing just one is not all that hard, only tricky part is the pre load on the spring.

Based on the dust, you know the preload is around 8 turns. The door guys that come to my work paint a stripe down the spring before preload.

yup, 7-8 seems to be the magic number, this set we just installed had a painted line down both springs, made life easy.

Something like 30-32 1/4 turns for a 7' door. I'll cross that bridge when I get there...

So the truck is back together. Pump seems to be working. No apparent leaks. Nothing major yet at least. Now that that is done, I can start on the next piece of low hanging fruit. Trans temps. After about 30 minutes of steady cruising, it'll get up to 220°. I'd prefer it to stay under 200° at all times. Considering I live in the desert and my driving style, that's going to be a tall order. However, I think I have a plan...

A tru-cool H7B 11"x11" 29,200 btu stacked plate oil cooler with a 1600 cfm fan.



Remember that hole I cut in the bed to access the fuel pump...? I'm thinking I can make that functional. There should be some airflow through when cruising, then when the fan kicks on, it will draw through from underneath.







All controlled with a 190° Derale fan switch relay kit.

https://derale.com/products/electric...ing-kit-detail



Originally, I had planned on putting it entirely under the bed at an angle, but there's just not enough room for an 11" square cooler down there. This one's going to take some time. Got fab work, plumbing and wiring. Plus I gotta make it look good.

you are the new master round here...wheres the bowing icon?