Subs came with the car so I never looked... But it was installed by geek squad so I hope it's set up right... And no I didn't grind... I thought I could get away with not.... Do you think that's why?
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Subs came with the car so I never looked... But it was installed by geek squad so I hope it's set up right... And no I didn't grind... I thought I could get away with not.... Do you think that's why?
Very well could be the problem.
First time with my DDM HIDs I had a flicker on the passenger side, so I scraped with a utility blade and sanded with some 220....over and over.
You mosdef want to sand that metal bare, then coat with dielectric grease after everything is tightened down.
What ballast brand are you using? and where did you ground them
OK they are going off again... It's gotta be the ground... They are morimoto ballast. The ones that came with my retro kit. And I was going to use the ground that came with the car but it was rusted so bad when I tried getting it off it broke the bolt so I used a whole above it
There is a correlation to when my lights don't work and my subs don't work because they both aren't right now... Calling it a day and get back at it tomorrow...
The BLACK is the snapped bolt, I got lucky and was able to use that spot. I did have to get some new bolts because it was rusted enough to eat the threads and strip the bolts.
Sand the silver behind the BLUE area of the screw AND the connectors bare + the support. Should have some nice shiny copper on the rings.
Tuck your ballast where the X is next to the battery and hang it with zip ties off the frame.
If possible get a hex bolt , they are easier to torque. That phillips will strip out the head waaayyy to easy.
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Thanks you so so much... I will definitely do this today. The only reason why I used that is that that was the only bold and nut I had laying around. But yea I will sand it downnto Baur metal. Is the other site coming out to the left some how connected to my subs?
I am not one of those audio gurus,,,but don't they use a capacitor to prevent parasitic draw.
You have the classic 'lights dim when sub hits'. the ballasts need a constant even flow of juice. they probably both went into protect mode.
I heard that is the horn and whatever. You would probably have to track down a harness diagram,,,,I have seen it but can't remember where.
Either way your SUB is more than likely breaking the weak links. Nothing takes more juice(sound wise) than anything say below the honk of a 250hz note,,,let alone 80hz and down
If you have an EQ, roll off some of the lows......get rid of most of the 50 and down,,,,maybe you can get by with a more tuned low end end.
Most people crank the 100 and down, just because. you really can't hear it as much as feel it(and piss off the neighbors).
Ha Ha what did you use a wood chisel? just giving flak.
It looks ok, but I try and go smooth for better surface contact. What did you use a bolt and nut? def get a hex so you can tighten it so it squeals.
And that other side needs some help. SAND + new bolt and spray out the female threads with some PB or WD.
Yea that was a result of working on my car last night at 12:30 pissed off and tired haha but I got the right tool on the dremel now haha... I will keep going at it until it's smooth. And yea I will rummige through the garage for a different bolt. What is this electrical glue you speak of?
Unhook the hid ballasts and plug in the good ol halogen and see if your getting power.
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