My granddaughter and I tackled the knock sensor code. First I put my 06 GP up on ramps and measured the ohms and voltage. I used a probed that has a little hook on it and you can screw down and it mechanically holds the wire while making a small puncture electricity.
Here is a picture of the tool: 20130727_072515_zpsc5b9d8aa.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
Here is a picture of the tool in action, also shows the location of the "Bank 2 Knock Sensor":
20130727_072949_zps46cef3d1.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
So for my base line Ohms I had 4.75 and DC voltage was about .3, then when the key was on it went up to about .7.
Here is the meter, if you want to see the settings: 20130727_073036_zps5cd6eff7.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
When I looked at the bad car, I had "open" on the ohms. When I went to the parts store and ohm out a good sensor, it showed "open". This made me think that I was reading the ohms through the computer. To test this theory, I measured the front KS and it read the same (4.78), then I disconnected it from the KS, and read the same (4.78) Ohms. So then I concluded maybe a broken wire,(good call Bill) so as I started pulling on the wire to see where it went, it came down. Then I tried to move the PS pump to see if I could find the other end and the connector fell on the ground. It looked like it broke on both ends of the connector. Here is my fix...
In this picture you can see where I added some wire, solder, and heatshrink. The bottom connector is the one that goes on the wire from the KS. In this picture you can see where I stripped the wire and was going to solder and heatshrink it back.
20130727_102322_zps64c5ae29.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
Then as I was winding the wire to put it back, it pulled out. I am glad it did because if it was weak, I rather find it now. : 20130727_102717_zpsa3379469.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
So to fix it, I had to cut back the plastic. There was a clip where the wire goes in, then a rubber plug around the wire. I assume it is to keep moisture out. So I cut a small slot and pry the metal clip up and out so I could solder a small piece on to attach the wire. Also I cut it 90 degrees to the prongs where the back clip is held on. The picture is kind of fuzzy but you get the idea. : 20130727_104539_zpsb3f28299.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
After pushing the clip back in and reassembling the plug, I added some heat shrink, silicon, the back clip. I think this will keep it from corroding. :20130727_105919_zpscd643c82.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
Solder and heat shrink it all back and now I had ohms. Cleared the code and so far so good.
Since it was a broken wire, I still can't help with a "Bad" KS. I feel this is a good quick test for a broken wire, especially since it can be broken in hidden places. Some post I read said if you have "open" then it could be a bad computer, although I guess this could be possible, definitely check for bad wire. I bet (although I can not be sure) it was done when the plastic elbows were replaced. Someone did not know there was a clip on the PS pump and pulled it loose. I bet I have done half dozed water pumps and dropped the PS pump to get at that bolt and did not know about the connector. Just been lucky I guess. :-)
Which brings me to a question, where and how is the wire routed? Where is it attached to the PS pump bracket? Any pictures? For now I connected them under the trans away from the CV axle, but I know the wire went up and over somewhere, not below, just not sure where. I don't think it going to catch on anything unless she goes 4 wheeling somewhere.
Also, I have to brag on the granddaughter, not only did she help and I had to explain everything. Heres what a socket looks like kind of stuff. It was a hot day in Oklahoma.
She stabbed the PS pump totally by herself. Both bolts!!!! I gave her a new name, from Whitney to Manual Dexterity. 20130727_130204_zpse0776765.jpg Photo by penright | Photobucket
