Thread: 2000 GTP: Still Alive! New Trans?

Sun roof OTC is in and works great. Replacement wheel bearing is postponed until next weekend, and thats about it...unless I can think of something to get on the JY trip on Friday.

Okay, so this ABS\TCS thing is really starting to piss me off. All 4 bearings are new, passenger side front harness is new, all 4 wheel bearing show the same resistance AT the EBTCM connector, and I still have the ABS\TCS light problem. I went ahead and disconnected the battery for awhile and I'm letting it sit now, I'll connect it again in about an hour or so. Next step is the EBTCM replacement, right?

Holy crap, I hate wiring sometimes. I'm having some weird problems, so I decided to tear some of the dash apart and check wiring out. I found out that the BTSI fuse is not getting 12 volts. I checked the wiring continuity from the Battery to the IGN fuse, and from the fuse to the Ignition switch, then checked the white wire's continuity to the BTSI fuse, and checked the pink wire's continuity from the BTSI fuse to the Shift interlock connector, everything was perfect. So, it looks like I have a bad ignition switch, and I'll be getting a new one tomorrow. I'll install it, and see what all problems get fixed.

My speedometer stops working in neutral, my ABS\TCS is showing no codes, but both lights are on, all kinds of weird fun things.

Haven't done much to the car lately, mainly a combination of the weather and I've been working 60 hours a week. BTSI is repaired and works fine had no impact on anything else though. I broke a piece of my driver side tail light off, it was already cracked so it just needed a push in the right direction. I just got some new tail lights in the mail that are already tinted, and they looks GREAT as far as I can tell. I'm going to wait to put them on because the weather is supposed to get WAY worst in a week or so, so these are gonna stay inside until there is no snow on the ground....for at least 1 week straight. I am polishing them up and waxing them, so they'll be ready to go. Here's some pics:
Out of the box:

After polish\wax:

Not much of a difference, but it is noticeable in person. These were in fantastic shape to begin with, and packed VERY well:

I'm still working on the other tail light, it'll get wax in here in a minute. Not my glasses...:

Also, I hope to be buying a remote start alarm system for the car, I'm think of going with a 6 channel Autopage since I have one on the truck and love it. I'll have 3 extra channels to play with on the alarm, and I'm going to try and set one up to roll down\up the front windows, one to roll down\up the back windows, and one to turn on the automatic climate control. I've talked to 3 engineers for work and they're not familiar with the circuit I'd need to roll the windows up AND down on the say ground trigger, so I'll be talking to a few other guys I know on the subject.

I went junkyarding today and bought some sway bars. I was hunting for GMPP bars, and when I went to measure a stock GP for reference, it had a Dorman bar. It was all pulled and everything, no work needed. I got the bar and bushings for $22, and I'll be buying some endlinks for the install.

While I was at another JY, I bumped into another member on here who said that I could install a rear sway bar from a 95 Z34 Monte Carlo on my GP, and it was 22mm. We went ahead and pulled it, and I'll be trying to mock it up once it warms up a bit in a few days. Here's hoping it all works out, who knows. Here's some pics of the stuff:
Front bar:

Rear bar, I have the rest of the hardware as well, just gotta clean it up:

No worries man, I'm gonna try to get it on there one way or another, just wondering if anyone else has tried it before and has any pointers, etc. I'm mainly trying to find some sort of metal insert that I can use to bolt the bracket to the tub\subframe. Once I have that, it should be a pretty easy install from there.

New rear struts, new Moog endlinks all around, Dorman Front Sway, I'm STILL hunting for a damned GMPP rear. Either way, car drives MUCH better and handles 100x better. Everything was stock with 230k, so yea...it was bad. All thats left now is new control arms and an alignment...and that DAMN GMPP rear bar. I'm about to break down and just buy one new from Jeg's for $55.99 with free shipping. I'm thinking of picking up another STB to put in the rear, but we'll see how cold it is tomorrow...

Nope, I ended up using the black ones. The Regal springs are rated for 200 pounds less than the GP springs.

Yep. They were gas charged anyways, the blue ones were fluid. I'm probably going to grab the rear (and maybe front) door panels off of that same car tomorrow when I go. Might grab something else if I feel like it, and depending on how cold it is tomorrow.

Completed the CS144 swap today, well almost did. I have it put back together to the point where I could do a test run, and it works great! I turned my rear defrost on, A\C on, and heated seat on high and my voltage didn't move. Still a solid 14.1v, so I'm a happy camper. Tomorrow I'll put it back together completely, and run some more tests on it. So far, I'm happy with the swap. Only speedbump I hit was the nipple adapters for the heater core hoses bolted on different, so I had to make some extensions for them and bend them a bit. My main digital camera battery died, so I only have one pic for now, more to come tomorrow:


Its a beast, thats for sure!

Everything is back together and working GREAT! For some reason, my torque app is showing 13.7v when my multimeter shows 14.1 on every connection (Battery POS, Alt stud, distribution stud). The lights almost never dim, only when I have a song turned up louder than I'd every listen to it, lol. I also hardwired in my old Droid X with Torque installed, there's no service anymore so it's basically a mini-tablet. While I was up in Springfield the other day I picked up some new (brighter) 42mm LED bulbs for the map lights and I threw them in today as well. Interior is BRIGHT now, and all exactly the same color. Oh yea, the ripped Supercharger idler pulley went out today so it got replaced as well. I don't have a finished pic of the Alternator set up, I'll grab one in the morning, but here's a few other pics:
Gauges with Torque Pro, the Cell phone gets charged when the ignition is on, and goes to sleep when the power is lost:

LED Interior, no flash is used at all:



Here's some pics of the CS144 stuff, a before picture and a pic of the label on the CS144:


Just filed taxes today so some BIG changes are coming soon. It's nice to have the electrical system stronger than ever, because a lot of stereo\entertainment stuff is coming, along with complete exhaust (headers to tailpipe). I think the CS144 is one of the best things I have done to my car, I'm really surprised it's not a more popular upgrade.

OK I lied, now the CS144 swap is done. The belt I had on was too loose and squeaked a bit so I went and bought a smaller belt, a 93.985 inch Model K060935. I had a spare K060942 left over from my truck so I originally tried to fit that belt on, but it was a hair too long and made it sound like I had mice under my hood. While I was freezing my ass off, I snapped a few pics, but nothing fantastic. When I was at the JY I wasn't paying attention on the alternator bracket I bought had the wrong heater core nipples on them (90* instead of 180*), so I had to rig something up to get me by. Is it pretty? No. Does it work? Yep, no leaks. Anyways, you can kind of see what I did to fix it in the background. I also installed a sense wire, which did absolutely nothing that I noticed, and you can see what I used for a grounding location, and my stronger charge wire as well. When it warms up for longer than 1 day I'll clean everything up more. It was 65 degrees yesterday and is 13 today with a -5 windchill. W.T.F.



So far this CS144 thing is one of the most noticeable upgrades I've done to the car, everything has power, all the time.

Man, talk about a dead thread, lol.

Nice work and out in this cold it must have been horrible lol, keep up the work I haven't followed your thread in a little but I'll have to go back tonight and read it

So now I have belt squeak that will not go away, after 3 belts. I just discovered that my idler pulley is making a bit of noise, and my water pump has VERY VERY little play in it, and is still damn near silent when I spin the pulley. I think I'm going to start by replacing the idler pulley and see if the squeak goes away. I don't think that it's the tensioner itself, because when I turn the A\C on and\or crank the steering wheel over all the way the squeak doesn't change. Anyone have any other input on the matter?

I've tried 3 different sizes, the smallest possible is on it now. I tried the next size smallest and it doesn't fit. The tensioner's pulley does make some pretty good noise, but it still rolls smooth...that could change with the belt's tension on it though.