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Awesome! If I could kill the final noise from the exhaust(the glasspack helped) I will only be hearing the sweet whine of the blower. :) Have any pics of the trunk or doors when you did the PnS? How did things fit afterwards? Any issues?
Edit: you beat me. Thanks for the link!
I still hear my exhaust, but it did get better. We'll see if this does anything else. Just make sure you don't press too hard around door clips and such before you cut them out. Just pay attention to what holes you need and where before you put it down.
That's good stuff there Booba Fett, man 80's that must be what heaven is like. Thanks for the link to the page I haven't gotten to yet I've enjoyed seeing the build.
Jeff
Yep it is still workin, too. I decided to pull the interior inside for the night so i can install the relays for the windows to roll up and down with the alarm. For now it'll be roll down or up, that's it. Eventually I'll rig together more relays to switch between:
A.) Sending the negative pulse straight through to the other relays and crack the windows (since the one touch modules require the negative pulse to be less than 0.4 seconds)
B.) Sending the negative pulse through a capacitor\resistor to speed the negative pulse up to 0.2 seconds so the one touch module will take over and roll the window all the way down.
I gotta figure out the schematic on how to do that and possibly get more relays...again.
if your going to have 1 output then it will have to be a toggle circuit first time up second time down or vice versa. Don't think you will be able to pick unless you can combine another output to allow you to pick.
Jeff
The lock pulse will roll them up, I'm just talking about rolling them down. I swear I've seen some relay configuration where it'll toggle between 2 outputs.
Now for the interior....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKc26L3ubS4
Pretty slick I must say.
i need/ really want that. nice work. as always. :th_thumb-up::th_thumb-up:
Hard part is done. Door pane fit back on without much of a fight, now I just need to put a few pieces back on the dash and carpet\seats and I should be done.
Thats trick, nice work man! Let us know how the deadener affects road noise.
Woohoo. All done. I've been wanting to get this knocked out for 6 months. The plus side is everything went smooth, just a lot of soldering in some interesting places. The only unexpected thing wasn't really all that unexpected. I knew I'd have to use a relay to trigger all the other relays since the alarm couldn't handle the load of all the different relays, i just had another reason to add to the "why" list for it. The capacitor\resistor combo also didn't have the juice to trigger all the relays, only one. So, total for all of this minus the alarm: 13 relays, 9 one touch modules, about 30 feet of power wire, 3 capacitors and 3 resistors. I think that's it. Maybe more. here' the finished pics and a video:
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...psjpuvke2k.jpg
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...psktqsfm4x.jpg
Hard to tell so much **** is behind this panel, lol:
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5qoo51gi.jpg
This is the first time I've ever taken a video before testing something, I'm surprised it didn't fail:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvuTtsRK6KY
Success, YAY...:) lol
Good job.
Cool! Just remember that setup is for a single relay every one you add drops the total impedance so basically double the capacitance for every relay you add. Hey finally a use for stiffening capacitors!
if you have any places that won't stick use gorilla snot (aka contact cement). We used it for putting down dynamat in dirty cars even after they were "clean" to make it stay and any time we did a roof.
Jeff
Fantastic job man!
Sweet you got it didn't see the second video!
Thanks guys, and thanks to Jeff, who helped with the original capacitor\resistor idea. Everything still works great. I think I'll have to get a new rear driver window regulator, but it's always been a little slow. It works, it's just slower than the rest. Now onto this 0-10 second delay timer, which is somewhat less important now (although I'll still finish it) since the headlights are disabled during remote start. Then it's back to the rain sensor.
Oh and I'm going to my first car meet with this car. It's next the Saturday after the 4th of July up in Springfield. We'll see how it goes. I hope my car is all I crack it up to be, lolol.
I was testing the whole window setup very thoroughly last night and discovered a few things that I fixed today. First thing was kinda funny. During my previous testing I never rolled the windows down while the alarm was armed. Appartently all 4 windows rolling down and stopping at the same time was enough to jolt the car enough to "prewarn" the system. This send a message to the keys, honks the horn 3 times and locks the doors. Whatelse happens when the alarm locks the doors? The windows go up. That's right, the windows would roll down, the car would honk thre times, and the windows would go back up. That was an easy fix, I just turned the sensitivity down on the shock sensor.
The somewhat frustrating part was the up function (locking) on the windows worked 2 or 3 times then not at all. After a few hours of troubleshooting this morning I ended up increasing the capacitor's value to 2200uF with 2x10k resistors in parrallel (which is the same as a 5k resistor). This fixed the problem. I think the capacitor shortened the pulse too much, since it had to travel through 2 relays before triggering a one touch module. The higher value capacitor made the pulse a bit longer, so a 0.2 second pulse still made it to the one touch module. Basically the original pulse was 0.8 seconds, the first capacitor setup reduced that to 0.2 seconds, but each relay took 0.05 seconds to "activate" so by the time the one touch module got the trigger there was 0.1 seconds or less of the pulse left so the one touch module only did something sometimes (when it was 0.1 seconds or above). The larger capacitor made the alarm's pulse 0.3 (or more) seconds, so the relays could activate and the one touch modules still got a ~0.2 second pulse.
With the 5k in parallel with the cap it discharges faster, could that also have been a factor in 2 out of 3 times working? I never calculated the time constant to full discharge, but you got it work it working and your theory is sound. Good going. Should get your package Friday wish I found the 555 book I had. I think I actually wore it out.
PS the digital circuit one can help you eliminate some relays.
Jeff