Lifters aren't that hard to do. It only takes a few hours.
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06-19-2013
Lifters aren't that hard to do. It only takes a few hours.
06-19-2013
Probs a rusty resonator. They tend to split apart at the seem. Stock ones anyways.
06-28-2013
UPDATE ON CURRENT REPAIRS
- Have the aluminum coolant elbows I purchased installed for preventative maintenance *fixed*
- Serpentine belt needs to be replaced *fixed*
- Power steering needs to be flushed completely or the pump replaced *fixed*
- Ticking noise around 1.5 to 3k RPM but fades when accelerating further. Ticks become louder and sound like clacking/rattling when the car shifts in 4th gear. Once in 4th gear this issue occurs upon acceleration but not enough for the car to downshift around 1.5k RPM. (This has been going on since November and gradually has gotten worse)
- Have my oil changed with synthetic (Has not been changed since last august as I have put on little mileage milage, DIC says 25% left currently) *fixed*
- Drivers side rear window does not completely close and has a slight opening towards the top collects water vapor and sometimes water during washing or when it rains. *fixed*
- Windshield washer fluid is either clogged or the pump lost juice with my drivers side wiper. The drivers side wiper does not spray fluid only in spurts well but the passenger side wiper is fine (already tried unclogging the fluid line and checked the spray outlet, but still has a poor spray as I think the line might need replacing or it could be the pump) *fixed*
- I have two dents that came with the car. One dent is my rear passenger side quarter panel and the other dent is on the the lower portion of my front passenger side door.
- Have the ****ty touch up paint and clearcoat job I did after Hurricane Sandy flung a heavy grit shingle at my car and scratched the front portion of my hood and created a 1 to 2 inch scratch all the way through the metal taken care of. (whether that be through sanding or repainting that portion of the hood)
- Have both of my rear interior lights replaced/repaired. One is broken and the other plastic clip snapped off and won't snap back in despite multiple tries. *fixed*
- Have my moonroof plastic trim panel replaced as it is hanging and is cracked. (Won't Snap back in already tried numerous times and cracked it even further) *fixed*
- Replace my passenger side windshield cowl piece as its really deformed and leaves/water is getting in. Currently the running water water is blocked my OEM rubber deflector so it does not get into the interior but the large gaps are creating a more than normal excess water amount which could possibly weaken the rubber deflector gasket and cause it to fall off which cause serious damage to the blower motor and create mold on my brand new cabin air filter. With the cowl I might replace the rubber deflector with the improved plastic one from GM. *fixed*
Since arriving back from upstate, I was able to have my car repaired at my families dealership. All broken plastic panels and lights have been repaired along with the other stuff mentioned above. I am very happy.
However, the ticking noise is still there. The mechanic at my families dealership could not pinpoint the issue but told me upon checking, it was not my exhaust or lifters and there should be no harm to the engine. Furthermore, he said that the rest of the engine is fine and if the noise does not get worse there is nothing to worry about. If there is a problem and the noise gets louder or I lose performance, then I should deal with it when it arrives but the noise itself is nothing major. I was abit disappointed, but was relived knowing it was not anything major such as lifters or my exhaust. He told me since my car has so many miles and due to its age, it could just be some plastic part or something flapping around, but he could not find it. Although he reorganized and tightened anything he believed was loose.
06-29-2013
Could be something very simple that has been overlooked like your mechanic said a plastic part or something like that.
07-17-2013
This Just In from our GPF journalists in New York. It seems that two wild leaks have appeared in SpeedGrids GP
From what we gather its turns out that yet again this man’s car is not letting up on its owner. We can now confirm that SpeedGrids GP have a broken power steering pump which the owner just replaced 4 months ago and is leaking fluid. If that was not enough, the main crankcase seal has failed. Ouch that got to leave a mark Jim have we heard from the Owner? Yes and we can confirm here exclusively at GPF News that the crankcase seal has failed along with the Power steering pump that the owner recently replaced but luckily the pump will be replaced at no charge to the owner as its under warranty, and the crankcase rear main seal is relatively inexpensive.
That must be some good news for the owner Jim despite the setbacks. Not really Todd as we further investigated the owners GP issues it turns out that although the crankcase seal is inexpensive, the actual labor will cost a good sum. The actual process entails removing the engine or dropping the transmission to replace the seal which is at least 6 hours of labor which averages out to $500.
WOW!!, Jim the owner must be pissed. Yes Todd, the owner has had constant problems since he has owned the car for only a year. Much of his leaky gaskets and other issues were covered under warranty, but that has expired for the owner and he is really pissed off.
Oh well I hope things work out for the owner. Yes Todd we can all hope for the best for SpeedGrid. We will all keep you posted right here on GPF regarding SpeedGrids Money Pit GP. Keep Checking our website and threads for all the developing news.
Following that comedic news story that I thought of to address my current issues My GP Power Steering Pump is leaking which i just changed 4 months ago. It’s covered under warranty for 12 months 12k miles when I originally purchased it so that is a plus. But as I was having my PS pump checked by my mechanic, he found another leak which turns out to be the crankcase seal. My oil pan was covered with oil but never actually hit the floor. The clear fluid that originally brought me there was my pump but my car is also leaking oil on the left rear side of my oil pan.
Keep in mind that all gaskets including my oil pan were changed back when all hell broke loose for the first 2 months of owning the car. My mechanic took me under the car and showed me where the leak was coming from. He told me that it’s a labor intensive job and although the part is very inexpensive, getting to the crankcase seal entails removing my transmission or dropping the engine which brings the price up to $500 in labor alone. He told me that I can still drive the car and the leak small. If anything gets low, I just add oil. But it will get worse over time. He did not pressure me and even encouraged me to get another opinion and quote from any other mechanic.
I am bringing the car to my other mechanic soon to check out the leak. I cleaned out the engine bay and underneath to car around the lines and pump so when I drive a can pinpoint the leak. I really hope it’s not the crankcase seal as I don't have the funds right now to pay for it.
I can still drive the car as it’s a gradual leak but it will get worse if not fixed eventually.
Last edited by SpeedGrid; 07-17-2013 at 04:38 PM.
07-17-2013
07-18-2013
Okay I just got back from my second mechanic. He told me that the Power steering Pump is indeed leaking but could not spot any other leaks. I mentioned the slow leak I had possibly by the rear main seal. He could not spot the leak initially but I told him I cleaned up all around the engine and oil pan. He wanted to save me some money and told me to use Bars Rear Main Seal Leak. I then went to auto zone and purchased the product and put it in my oil as directed.
But even after I cleaned my engine, pump and chassis around the Power Steering Pump Bone Dry, It got soaked with fluid again and my mechanic confirmed that he spotted the leak in the reservoir itself. Furthermore the reason why my PS pump kept making noise after so long is because the crack brought air into the pump thus making the noise. Once I get the new pump as it is covered under warranty, I will bring it to my mechanic and he will install it for me. Regarding the rear main seal leak, he told me that most likely the Bars Product will seal up the leak as it is very small.
07-18-2013
Okay I just got back from my second mechanic. He told me that the Power steering Pump is indeed leaking but could not spot any other leaks. I mentioned the slow leak I had possibly by the rear main seal. He could not spot the leak initially but I told him I cleaned up all around the engine and oil pan. He wanted to save me some money and told me to use Bars Rear Main Seal Leak. I then went to auto zone and purchased the product and put it in my oil as directed.
But even after I cleaned my engine, pump and chassis around the Power Steering Pump Bone Dry, It got soaked with fluid again and my mechanic confirmed that he spotted the leak in the reservoir itself. Furthermore the reason why my PS pump kept making noise after so long is because the crack brought air into the pump thus making the noise. Once I get the new pump as it is covered under warranty, I will bring it to my mechanic and he will install it for me. Regarding the rear main seal leak, he told me that most likely the Bars Product will seal up the leak as it is very small.
07-19-2013
Hey guys should I get a new line in the process while I wait for the new PS pump to be shipped?
07-19-2013
If the one u got nows find id just reuse it
07-20-2013
I ordered a Power Steering Pressure Line as well because it looks like line is soaked with PS fluid as well. I currently have the replacement pump as it came in the mail under warranty on Friday. Now I have to wait for the pressure line which should be here by next Thursday-Friday
Last edited by SpeedGrid; 07-20-2013 at 11:44 PM.
09-21-2013
At times I think of selling my car. Although I most likely will not. Its just a thought that goes through my head when I have problems with the car or I just want some extra cash.
I wonder how much I would get for it. Its has 78.4k miles and is stock besides the CAI, Double Din Pioneer Radio, and LED Taillights
09-23-2013
Well my brakes are on their way out, Will need to have a set installed by early next year.
I am really liking these.
04-14-2014
I just fixed my A/C. It seemed to have ran out of A/C coolant.
Went and bought some of this stuff. A/C Pro with leak sealer.
Now the A/C blows cold and its awesome. So glad it was not something more serious like a broken compressor. Also it was an easy process to refill the coolant which is nice.
Last edited by SpeedGrid; 04-14-2014 at 04:29 PM.
04-14-2014
It doesn't just run out of R134a. You have a leak somewhere.
04-14-2014
Yes I know, that is why I got it with the leak repair. Its not like a professional job, but I dont have that kind of money right now.Originally Posted by dsmuts
It should last me at least a year or two. It only cost me $30 as it was on sale and it fixed my problem for now.
04-14-2014
If it leaks out in a few days it's likely the compressor
04-18-2014
Alright so since my car is clunking away lately I have decided to do a nearly full revamp of the suspension. The only think not getting changed are the struts as they are still working fine. What I plan on changing are my control arms, trailing arm's, tie rod ends, and both front and rear sway bar links. All parts below are Moog. Installation will have to wait until I go upstate for the summer as my uncle will have his mechanics at the dealership install them for free. I wont have a shop do it as the labor alone will cost more than all of the parts I order combined. I will likely place the order in a month or two before I head upstate.
Here is a screenshot of what I got along with the links to the parts so you can check them out yourself and tell me what you think.
Tie Rod Ends- http://www.ebay.com/itm/181312449057
Trailing Arms- http://www.ebay.com/itm/181373072051
Rear Sway Bar Link- http://www.ebay.com/itm/131156236804
Front Sway Bar Link- http://www.ebay.com/itm/130467772131
UPDATE, gonna update the control arms , those MAVOTECH's are crap, the have horrible reviews and are made in china.
Last edited by SpeedGrid; 04-18-2014 at 10:51 PM.
04-18-2014
Originally Posted by The Sunfire Guy
04-18-2014
Looks like all rk parts are bad, they are not made by moog but a third party. The Ck parts are the good ones but are way too expensive. Gonna keep looking for other brands.
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