Just gut the cat and tune the code out
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Just gut the cat and tune the code out
Clunking?
Subframe bushings.
Are you sure about that? I don't want to change parts I do not have to.
I have been hearing tons of things cause clunks. So far I have my done my LCA's sway bear links both front and rear, both motor mounts, tie rod ends, and front sway bar bushings thinking they could be the culprit and I am still having this issue.
From what I have been hearing it can either be my struts, strut mounts, sub frame bushings, and even the steering shaft.
I am ruling out the steering shaft because I don't hear any clunking when turning. I also don't feel any clunks through the steering wheel either.
The clunking sound comes from the passenger side of the car towards the glove box. Only happens if the car has been sitting for awhile and when I accelerate from time to time especially on an incline. Also it will clunk when going in reverse again especially on an incline. The clunking is not constant and happens at random, but I at least hear it twice every time I get in my car.
If it is the sub frame bushings? is that a large job or can be done rather easily on jack stand or a lift. How much labor is involved?
As soon as you accelerate it clunks? I would point to Subframe bushings, They are cheap and can be done pretty easily. Just put the car on jacks, put a jack on the subframe in the middlish area (front, back or side to side), drop the bolts, slowly lower and swap the bushings, put the bolts back in.
I should replace the struts too along with the mounts. They are original and have 80k on them. Although that will have to hold off as it is quite pricey for FE3 struts. I just want to eliminate the clunking first and if its subframe bushings thats a much cheaper fix. I just want to make sure thats them. Clunking upon acceleration could have been many things and I have eliminated most of them. I am hoping its the subframe bushings as you said if its an easy job. I will get to them eventually but I need to save up on some cash first as I already spend a bunch on parts in the last month. Would you say a subframe busing replacement take more time that a strut replacement?
What do you think caused my P0420 code. I cleared the code two days ago and it has not come back. I find it hard to believe its my cat as it only has 80k miles on it and my exhaust has not foul smell or white smoke. Also not sure if it is the O2 sensors either because my gas mileage has been consistent 10-16 city and 25-30 highway. Also th car does not hesitate or has had any loss of performance.
The code came on on the highway on the 240+ mile trip back home two days ago.
Why Fe3 struts? You can get KYB Excel-G's for cheaper and they are just as good, if not better. Not everything has to be OEM.
P0420 is Cat or rear o2 sensor, couldn't tell you more than that, one of the two is failing...or nothing, it just decided to be dumb for a minute and threw the code and maybe you won't see it again for ages.
The only thing I heard is that they are less performance oriented than the stock fe3's
I would not mind purchasing them and saving some money. Saw a set of 4 of them on ebay for $260 with free shipping. If the handling and overall suspension performance that the comp g package and fe3 struts is not that noticeable and offers very similar performance, I might get a set of those KYBs. Since you know way more about the grand prix than me, how much different performance wise are the fe3's to the KYB excel struts?
Not enough of a difference that you would notice it on a day to day driving...or even on an autoX cross if you were to do such a thing.
Thats good to know. I also still would have the Comp G sway bar with new bushings. Probably would handle way better than my stock ones with 80k miles since I dont know exactly how well the stock fe3's would handle as I owned the car since it had 74k on them. Probably the KYB's would be a huge difference in terms of handling from the old stockers. When time comes I will look at the KYB's with new strut mounts as well.
Recently installed Brakemotive brakes and I must say they look awesome and so far performing well.
But to surprise you guys who have been telling me to do it some work on my car myself, I finally got my hands dirty at least partially.
Had a friend who happens to work on cars help me out and to be honest the job was not too bad. Took us about two hours but I really enjoyed the experience. Only thing I paid my friend with was after the job was done we went out to eat and I took care of the bill. $40 for the both of us including tip.
I went to his house as he had the tools as I do not.
The only pain in the ass was the rear brakes as I had to go to the auto parts store and rent for a special tool for the rear piston as a c clamp would not spin with the rear piston.
In the end it was a great experience to finally getting my hands dirty and I learned a few things.
I finished the brake in procedure and so far they brake fine.
Only issue I am having is my passenger side front wheel squeals periodically in reverse even if the brake is not applied. This does not happen when driving forward.
We greased up everything and replaced it with new mounting hardware that came with the pads, I am hoping it fades away as the brakes break in even more but if they don't what do you think is causing the squealing in reverse?
Besides that issue the brakes are perming very well and they look great. Here is a picture of what it currently looks like.
http://s1.postimg.org/bd0maak6n/IMAG0076.jpg
Recently installed Brakemotive brakes on all four wheels and I must say they look awesome and so far performing well.
But to surprise you guys who have been telling me to do it some work on my car myself, I finally got my hands dirty at least partially.
Had a friend who happens to work on cars help me out and to be honest the job was not too bad. Took us about two hours but I really enjoyed the experience. Only thing I paid my friend with was after the job was done we went out to eat and I took care of the bill. $40 for the both of us including tip.
I went to his house as he had the tools as I do not.
The only pain in the ass was the rear brakes as I had to go to the auto parts store and rent for a special tool for the rear piston as a c clamp would not spin with the rear piston.
In the end it was a great experience to finally getting my hands dirty and I learned a few things.
I finished the brake in procedure and so far they brake fine.
Only issue I am having is my passenger side front wheel squeals periodically in reverse even if the brake is not applied. This does not happen when driving forward.
We greased up everything and replaced it with new mounting hardware that came with the pads, I am hoping it fades away as the brakes break in even more but if they don't what do you think is causing the squealing in reverse?
Besides that issue the brakes are performing very well and they look great. Here is a picture of what it currently looks like.
http://s1.postimg.org/bd0maak6n/IMAG0076.jpg
it took you 2 hours? takes about 20 mins for a brake job dude
I did all four wheels including rotors, pads and mounting hardware and its my first job ever working on a car. I did most of the work and my friend helped me out abit. I was getting a ton of directions. Sure it took long but I can finally say I did something to my car for once and it feels great knowing I did.
I did all four wheels including rotors, pads and mounting hardware and its my first job ever working on a car. I did most of the work and my friend helped me out abit. I was getting a ton of directions. Sure it took long but I can finally say I did something to my car for once and it feels great knowing I did.
Did you grease the slides and where the pad sits in the bracket?