98 GTP progress/build thread PIC HEAVY!!!! Updated 02-29-12 E85 idle an run vids

Very nice ride sir! Cant wait for the vids when its. Done.. I see you had a short ram intake.. Do you throw codes since it looks like you dont have the MAF anymore?

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Originally Posted by TABSGTP23

Very nice ride sir! Cant wait for the vids when its. Done.. I see you had a short ram intake.. Do you throw codes since it looks like you dont have the MAF anymore?

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Wut... There is a MAF right next to the filter, its the part literally next to the cone with the white sticker on it. The filter is bolted on to IT!!!
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/54be60af.jpg

It is just a coupler going between the TB and the MAF, with the Filter clamped onto the MAF

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TABSGTP23

Very nice ride sir! Cant wait for the vids when its. Done.. I see you had a short ram intake.. Do you throw codes since it looks like you dont have the MAF anymore?

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It's a N* throttle body, that's why it looks like there is no maf. and yeah that's the LQ4 maf with that white barcode sticker

I have a HUGE fender well intake now... 4" ID with a 9" cone:

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/..._3671302_n.jpg

Had the springs tested today and... Guy said they measured a tad over 100# at 1.8" so they have to be the 105's. I'm actually fine with that, Intense says the S2 cam can run 105 or 130 and my S3 cam says 130's but S3 is barley bigger than the S2 and the S3 makes power to 7krpm which I won't ever go above 6400ish, I'll prolly set shift points at 61/200. So I think 105's will do, shouldn't have any valve float at those rpms and the titanium retainers will help that too.

UPDATE TIME!

Motor is chained up an ready to drop in. Will be dropping it in Friday and maybe saturday too, depends how many problems I run into and how picky I wanna be cleaning the engine bay.

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/b5df0d22.jpg


New rack&pinion, new pump, new feed, new return... Ended up after discounts and cores are all returned and the guy lettin me return a wheel bearin with an expired warrenty, it was around $200+ tax and I get a coupon for $50 off a $100 order soon too.

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/bc8aa962.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice Kevin I sent you some pics of mine too I tried to start a thread but I am having a hard time getting the pics to post the site keeps locking up. Good luck with it man give me a call if you get a minute

hell ya man just in time for new years too haha. man its looking good, now we just need a small meet so you have somewhere to show it off at haha

GTP IS3 cam untuned startup - YouTube

Took nearly two days to get it that far... The r&p and pump and lines took a lot longer than expected, those hoses are hard to mount when you don't know the routing. That and cleaning all the brackets one by one and most of the bolt heads before putting it back together. Making a few little pieces here and there. Was out in under 4 hours LOL Anyways, it's not tuned at all minus raising the idle to 1000 just to keep her running.


Left to do before she drives:

halfass align the wheels so I can at least drive it to get the alignment
buy all new pins for the front bumper to go back on
hook up intercooler tubing and wire the pump to a switched 12+
dogbones
make new or modify the intake
top off and bleed coolant
go down to pullapart to find an oil dipstick tube

Sure there's lots more to do that I will find, but I'll get some driving vids up ASAP

looks like fun. hate to admit it but im disappointed with the idle, however 1000 rpm is probably the reason.

blower whine will more than make up for it i'm sure.

ltft's were just -15.6(it was a pretty accurate tune before the swap) when I ran it for a while it learned the trims a little bit and isn't surging much anymore. And yeah the 1000rpm kills most of the lope, I'll probably put it around 8-900ish when it's tuned. This thing does rumble a lot more now even at 1000

Didn't get much of anything done today with my hangover and sleeping in til 11. But the dogbones are in, I welded some studs for my dual tranny coolers and mounted them, coolant overflow is in and all topped off, rerouted a few wires, think I have it aligned good enough to drive 4-5 miles to the alignment place I use.

Think 32,000lbs GVW is too much? lol

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2777.jpg

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2776.jpg

are you going to run a t-stat for the trans coolers?

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Originally Posted by matt5112

are you going to run a t-stat for the trans coolers?

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Not this winter but will have one by next winter if I stay auto. I don't hardly ever take it on the highway, just 4.5 miles(one way) to work mostly and its got 7 stop lights so I think it'll be okay. If the weather stays like it's been too, it was 71 here yesterday

i like this thread.

Update:

Car has been running smoothly, mainly because darkhorizon talked me into running open loop. I think I need to go back and do another good maf tune and then see how it runs in open loop then and decide if I wanna stick with open loop or go back to tuning all the time. Got my alignment done after I put the stock wheels back on for the winter. Now I've got it in the garage tore up a bit...



First I installed my dyode dynamics led kit

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2876.jpg


Came with led plate light too:

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2886.jpg

Then I had to solder wires onto my chinese led bulbs for my gauges cause they would never stay lit for more than a day or two cause of a crappy connection. Testing them...

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2866.jpg


Then I had to rip all this crap out to install new speakers to replace my blown fronts(GPF calender in the background)

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2874.jpg


Then I dug my SE panels outta the attic and finally cleaned them up to go back on. I put the rears on a while back but was waiting to do speakers to do the fronts. Not bad for $5 a piece from pullapart and maybe $20 in glue and cleaners to fix them up.

During cleaning:

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2865.jpg


Both cleaned and ready to go in. Then I gotta go find a nice clear set of marker lights from pullapart...

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2873.jpg


Then I installed my door speakers. The screw holes in the plastic piece was striped out ,and then cracked when I tried a bigger screw. So I made a mounting plate outta stainless scrap I had. Also used boom mat speaker cups on front and back.

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2872.jpg




I started on the rears but my wife decided I had spent enough time in the garage, even though my 3yo daughter was out there with me most of the time. I'm gonna sneak back out there after everyone is in bed and finish installing the rears and put the seats and crap back in. Then pickup my door panel push pins which should be here in the morning and put them on hopefully before work...

Got some rear door handles to get rid of the keyholes in my fronts. $15 for the pair then a few trim pieces I needed.

Gonna have to buy a couple extra FOBs just in case now...lol


http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/61b50f25.jpg

IF It were me, and I prolly will at some point this summer, I'd just replace the passenger side that way if there ever happened to be a problem with my fobs, or the reciever, or a dead battery due to stupidity, I'd still be able to get inside to pop the hood. I never use the keys but I'm sure if I didn't have the ability to use the keys both fobs and/or the reciever would break. Passenger side NEVER gets used, i don't even know if the key works for the passenger side lol... so I would just keep the drivers... but to each his own

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Originally Posted by TLSheff

IF It were me, and I prolly will at some point this summer, I'd just replace the passenger side that way if there ever happened to be a problem with my fobs, or the reciever, or a dead battery due to stupidity, I'd still be able to get inside to pop the hood. I never use the keys but I'm sure if I didn't have the ability to use the keys both fobs and/or the reciever would break. Passenger side NEVER gets used, i don't even know if the key works for the passenger side lol... so I would just keep the drivers... but to each his own

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I plan to relocate my battery to the trunk sometime soon, and I will probably run a post or something underneath the car for the +12v and then if ever need be I can hook a charge to it enough to at least unlock the doors with my remote. Maybe even run a hidden button to unlock a one of the rear doors only or pop the trunk to access battery. I'm not worried about the FOBs or any of that part failing nearly as much as me loosing my one and only fob I have now(already lost one), so I will order a couple more before I install the handles.

My mechanical oil pressure gauge has been scaring me a bit lately the way I have the line ran so I decided to get one with a sending unit from Brandon(thanks!) on here and before I knew it I had ordered all new gauges(-wideband) Picked up the aeroforce brand new on ebay for like 130 shipped, not my ideal color choice as I woulda probably picked blue but its the black and white which I can for sure live with and probably even see better for the price I picked it up at. Just gotta order a hud pod and I'll get them all installed.

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...s/17433683.jpg

Ha stupid speakers are so fun to replace huh?
More pics of the trans coolers and how the lines are ran!