Thread: cant seem to find the problem!!!!!!

What was causing the low compression? ICMs have been known to test good and still be bad (sorry to complicate things even more) is the misfire all the time? Are you getting a SES light? Please add more info. so we can help

yes. Please list everything you have done/tried so far so we know what's left. I know what you're going through. It took me 2 months to finally nail down my misfire. Hopefully, yours isn't as bad as mine was

do a leakdown test on #3 and go from there

I assume you are running premium gas?

Since you just worked on the heads, check for possible vaccuum leaks. Also clean the MAF if you haven't already. What codes have come up?

i leak test shows you if something is wrong or where the compresson is going. did you do a compresson test on #3 again?

A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine's cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.
A leak down test requires the removal of all the spark plugs. The crankshaft is then turned so that each piston is at top dead center (both valves closed) when each cylinder is tested. Most people start with cylinder number one and follow the engine's firing order.
A threaded coupling attached to a leakage gauge is screwed into a spark plug hole. Compressed air (80 to 90 psi) is then fed into the cylinder.
An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that's still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.
The neat thing about a leakage test (as opposed to a compression test) is that it's faster and easier to figure out where the pressure is going. If you hear air coming out of the tailpipe, it indicates a leaky exhaust valve. Air coming out of the throttle body or carburetor would point to a leaky intake valve. Air coming out of the breather vent or PCV valve fitting would tell you the rings and/or cylinders are worn.
A leakage test can also be used in conjunction with a compression test to diagnose other kinds of problems.
A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.
If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.
If compression is good and leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it indicates a fuel delivery (bad injector) or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire).

yea what he said^^^^ good info
im to lazy to type all that

so am I. Google search to the rescue LOL

i would have just copied the link or a vid from youtube

wait the light is flashing and you cant get any codes?

The SES light flashing is telling you that there are multiple missfires, its really weird that you're not getting a code...

Since you've already checked your electrical system, start looking into your fuel system. Since it sounds like you have had this problem since you got the car, I would start at the tank and see if you see any impurities in a sample from it. Then check your fuel filter to make sure its not clogged. Then check your injectors and run some injector cleaner or seafoam in the tank.

If you do all that and it doesn't check out, it could be an issue with the crank position sensor, or tune. I say tune because if no codes are coming up, they could have been set to not report.

FWIW an ICM test at a parts store is often a poor test. Pick one oup at a JY and swap, swap your coils around if needed. Nail it.

i have a coil pack and the ICM if needed, will ship