Quote Originally Posted by Hippo Machine View Post
The sway bar is common to rust out and break on these cars, I recommend replacing it with a dorman sway bar, which is solid, and using moog or energy suspension end links. I wouldn't worry about the exhaust yet unless you have a leak. New plugs coils and wires are a good idea, get iridium plugs if you dont wanna have to do them again, and make sure to get stock coils. Struts and coils all around should help with the suspension and maybe upgrading the trailing arms would help with the sway as well.

How's the engine run?
Wrong gen, 3rd gen W-body don't have the Sway problems like the 2nd gen w-body does.

Quote Originally Posted by WRBSTi View Post
As for the R1 E-Line, they're already dirt cheap for D%S rotors, 200 bucks shipped, you guys can't be that poor

As for what's wrong with the car well a few things,
1. The car's front passenger side brakes, im not sure which pad, is scraping against the rotor, i've changed the pads, the rotors and the clips that the pads sit in, and it's still doing it, making a high pitched squeaking noise whist driving it. I've since taken the wheel off and lubed it all up even more with the caliper and brake grease ****, the noise has gone down a tad, but the only thing i can think of left is the 2 bolts that slide into the slider part of the caliper that you're supposed to grease, which i dumped grease into as well. I'm at a loss there. I'll come back to this later. Oh i also wire brushed and sanded down any rust where the sliders sit and all around the caliper that had rust, so it looks like new ish. The sound has minimized but when you roll the window down it is still there.
2. When you go over a bump, the only way i can describe this is like a match box car who's wheels slide from the right to the left. It seems to do that, and it feels so weird i freak out as if the car is going to fall apart. I believe it might be the sway bar end links are shot or it needs a new sway bar.
3. It needs a new exhaust as her car has this nice grumble to it, but it's only because the exhaust is rusting out by my guess and or might have a hole in it. But it sounds ballsier than it did when she got it. That's how she describes it.
4. The plugs, wires and coil packs need to be replaced for 100% sure. i took them apart and you can see all the rust and corrosion in there and they've never been replaced since stock. The car has an issue when you first start it, it cuts off, and forces you to start it a second time. I believe new plugs and wires and packs will solve this problem.
5. It needs new control arms most likely because what i can only describe as rust/corrosion so bad they look like they thinned out so much, im just waiting for it fall off.
6. It needs new shocks and struts for sure because it rides like complete ****.

The car itself has 110K on the clock as well in case anyone was wondering. Most of the stuff on this car has never been replaced or maintained. So i have a ton of work ahead of me.

I have some pictures of some of the work i did and i'll upload them here in a few.
1. Scraping noise is either the little piece of dust shield behind the rotor at the dead center bottom could be touching and causing the noise or the pad clips are rubbing.
2. Bushings somewhere, might as well replace all bushing anyways since it is at 110k and she needs struts. LCA's are cheap and just slap some GR2 struts in their with stock springs. Also check lower motor mounts on both sides, they are filled with grease and like to break and spill it everywhere.
3. Custom exhaust is cheap
4. Only use OEM coilpacks (or ACdelco) there is a ton on here for cheap used (which will work just fine). Since the plugs and wires have never been changed probably be prepared to break the wires off and having one hell of a time getting the metal boot covering off. Once its done once, it won't ever be that hard again. Stick with simple plugs and whatever OEMish wires.
5. See #2 (go with moog LCA's from 97-03 they fit)
6. See #2

Be prepared to replace the Front wheel bearings probably soon, TIMKEN is the best. Hubs can be done in 15-30 mins really nothing hard about it, no pressing ****.

Replace the Rear trailing arms with something a little better, they are probably rusted out by now anyways. BMI or something Solid.

Flush that coolant, I bet its gunked up cause Dexcool does that. You can choose to switch to Green or stay orange. If you go green flush everything really well or you will still have issues.

Lastly there will come a time when the LIM gasket will need to be replaced as they fail (97-early 05 had plastic ones), get the aluminum ones.


Welcome to forum, I live on the East side of the state!