Thread: low brake fluid sensor

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  1. #1 low brake fluid sensor 
    GTX Level Member cheatah faheatah's Avatar
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    hey guys and ladies, how hard is it to change brake fluid level sensor on master cylinder, 2006 gp 110k? am I gonna hafta drain, refill and bleed? I am hoping for an easy swap for a 5$ part.......
    Last edited by cheatah faheatah; 09-20-2016 at 04:21 PM. Reason: update
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  2. #2 Re: noob to gpona, diyer 25 plus yrs. 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    pretty sure it just pulls out, if it does drain the master res its fine as long as you dont touch the brake pedal, refill and off you go.

    have something to catch the brake fluid too.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: noob to gpona, diyer 25 plus yrs. 
    GXP Level Member Turbocharged400sbc's Avatar
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    a heads up on this issue on cars that dont recieve the brake flush/bleed service every 2 years

    sediment builds up on the float and tower, the float can stick at the low position, a few taps with a screwderiver handle will free it up, if the sediment is bad enough just remove the roll pin and pull the tank to flush/shake it out so you dont pump the debris through the system.

    unfortunatly at that mileage if its never been bleed/flushed regularly the master will probably start to bypass internally after its all done. so you probably should bite the bullet and get a new master to swap on. in most cases ive been able to bleed it out at the master fittings and keep air out of the abs/lines. crack em open, push the pedal down slowly to push the air out at the high point. do it slowly to keep from pushing air past the master fitting.

    after a few shots, compress both front calipers with em cracked to make sure to push air out of the abs to the master.

    most times i dont have to go to the calipers except to finish flushing

    blunt nose chisel and hammer around the bleeder base/caliper scasting to pop the rust free to crack the bleeders
    ~James~ Psychotic Gearhead
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  4. #4 Re: noob to gpona, diyer 25 plus yrs. 
    GTX Level Member cheatah faheatah's Avatar
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    Thank you much, good to know about bleed/flush urgency.
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  5. #5 Re: noob to gpona, diyer 25 plus yrs. 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i agree with the fluid flush too. when my master went bad i had to re use the res, the bottom of it was filthy. i flushed it out with brake cleaner dried it and re installed it on the new master.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: noob to gpona, diyer 25 plus yrs. 
    GTX Level Member cheatah faheatah's Avatar
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    Finally got around to swapping this part out for a new one, (after riding around for months with it unplugged) and YES it's SUPER easy. The sensor just slides into a "tunnel" under the M/C reservoir. All ya gotta do to remove the old one is use a pick/awl/small screwdriver to depress the "Y" type latch opposite the electrical connection. Now I feel like a dope for not doing it sooner but, oh well... 5$ part 1 minute R/R...any idiot (including me) can do it! I just wonder what XYZ garage down the street soaks the unaware folk for?
    For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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  7. #7 Re: noob to gpona, diyer 25 plus yrs. 
    GTX Level Member cheatah faheatah's Avatar
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    BTW no fluid loss, no bleeding....
    For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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