Thread: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine

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  1. #1 How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    I live here. 02NavyBlue's Avatar
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    In this write-up I'll be explaining the process on how I like to flush power steering fluid. (Also chilton's way) I performed it on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix. This should be performed, in my opinion, as often as you change your transmission fluid; but GM does not specify an interval. Most people do this when their pump starts making noise, but I'm doing it as preventative maintenance. Besides, my old fluid had a burnt smell to it. My pump was completely silent before, and still is after the flush. It's not hard to do, but since our reservoirs are in an unthinkable place (behind the engine on the passenger side for those who do not know) you may want to be under the car. You may be able to do everything from above, but you have to get under to put a pan down, and the process is easier with the wheels off the ground anyway, so that's how I'll be explaining the procedure. If done correctly, no air will be introduced to the system during this process.

    This process if very efficient since never will any old fluid that goes through the rack, go back into the reservoir. The order of fluid would be: Reservoir, pump, rack, and back to the reservoir. I remove the return line that goes back to the reservoir so it will not cycle. I've seen a method of removing fluid from the reservoir and replacing with new, starting, and repeating. The problem with that is the reservoir accounts for about 1/4 of the system capacity. So the first flush would change 1/4 of the fluid, then the next is already partially new fluid, and so on. Never would you be able to flush that system out completely, there will always be a percentage of old fluid left that would keep getting smaller eventually but never completely. It is good to flush completely to remove particles or sediment in the system that will wear the components. There is no filter in the power steering system.

    Being that this is a return line, there is no pressure. It is actually often referred to as the suction line.

    Things you will need:
    2-3 quarts of new power steering fluid (Use power steering fluid with stop leak additives if your system leaks. Most 100K+ systems leak into the rack boots and you may not know it), Jack+Jack Stands, 10 mm Socket+Ratchet, Pliers, "3/8'' dummy hose"(To keep fluid from coming out of the reservoir. A bag and rubber band may work too), Drip pan, long funnel, a medium sized container to monitor the flushed fluid's color, towels.

    Things that will help:
    Fluid siphon pump(some way to get old fluid out of the reservoir), Flashlight, gloves, cardboard to put down before starting, 3/8ths line to extend the return line into a container



    Raise and support the car with jack stands. Put a tarp/cardboard under the car if you don't want to make a mess. Remove the coolant overflow tank and set it aside for easier access to the power steering reservoir (10mm). Remove the power steering cap and remove the old fluid. You can do this with a vacuum bleeder tool, a hand siphon pump, or even a turkey baster. If you really don't have any of these, you may remove the return line and the fluid will dump out. I suggest going with the other methods over this because it will drip all over the frame and cv shaft.

    Once the old fluid is removed, remove the return line from the reservoir, and direct it into a container. Some fluid will come out. I used some old transmission cooler line to extend it by inserting it into the return hose. Then make sure fluid will not come out of the reservoir where you removed the return hose. I used some transmission cooler hose with a bolt in the other end.



    You can see the reservoir at the other end of the hose with a bolt in it. If you don't have 3/8'ths hose, find some way to plug that inlet hole. A bag and rubber band may work too. You can also see the return line being redirected with a steel line. If you don't have a line like this, find some way to direct the hose into a pan or bucket. Fluid will come out of it fairly quickly. Position a pan or bucket under the return line.



    Now you can fill the reservoir with new fluid using a long funnel. Fill it until it's nearly to the top.



    Now you will be starting the car for short amounts of time. Take note that the reservoir empties quickly. It only takes about 3 seconds from the time you start cranking to completely drain it.

    Since the wheels are in the air, you will be able to do this process quickly. Start the car for just 2 seconds, then shut it off. Refill the reservoir completely. Check the color of the fluid in the flushing container, and dump it into another container so you can monitor the current fluid color.
    My first flush:



    Start the car again for two seconds, and shut it off. Fill the reservoir, and check the fluid condition. It should start becoming clear by the second time. I could see the fluid coming out of the return line very slowly was clearer than the fluid in the container, so the new fluid had already made it through.

    Now that the new fluid has made it through, you will turn the wheel while starting for the 2 second period.

    Start the car for 2 seconds, during that time, turn the wheel completely to one direction, and shut it off when you get there. This should be a very quick process. You can start turning the wheel while it's cranking.
    Here is a quick video I made of this process to help describe the duration: Flushing Power Steering Fluid - YouTube

    Fill the reservoir. You will see that the flushed fluid is now dark again. Turning the wheels displaces more old fluid in the rack. Keep starting and turning lock to lock quickly until the fluid in the container becomes close to the new fluid color.

    My 3rd time flushing while turning the wheel: It's getting lighter.



    My 4th time flushing while turning the wheel(6 total flushes): This is light enough. My new Valvoline fluid is a very light yellow color. At the time I flushed this, the fluid slowly dripping out of the return line was a little clearer than the fluid in the container. (Unmixed with the dirtier fluid) This is after a total of flushing twice without turning the wheel to start, and 4 times while turning it. I used 2 quarts during this process, and it was already clean enough for me.



    Once you're comfortable with the fluid color, do not add any more fluid to the reservoir because you will have to remove the dummy hose from the reservoir and fluid will come out. Install the reservoir cap(to create a slight vacuum so the remaining fluid in the reservoir won't dump out), remove the dummy hose, and quickly install the original return hose. Make sure to slide the hose clamp back over the end of the hose. Wipe up any drips to accurately check for leaks later. Fill the reservoir only to where indicated on the dipstick on the cold fill line, and install the cap. Start the car and turn the wheels back and forth several times. Shut it off, and make sure the fluid level is still where it should be. Mine stayed the same, proving I introduced no air to the system during the flush. Even if air was introduced, starting the car and turning the wheels back and forth several times is a bleeding process. I would rather not have to bleed it because some systems can be tricky.

    Reinstall the coolant overflow tank if you removed it, and install the two 10mm nuts. Lower the vehicle back down.

    Fluid colors: On the left is the original fluid, the middle is the last flush color, and on the right is a small sample of the current fluid color. Very much like the new fluid color.



    I used 2.2 quarts during the flush. The two on the left is the old fluid put back into the containers, and on the right is new fluid. You can see that the color of the new fluid is not clear, it's just like the color that's in my reservoir.



    So, that's how to flush a power steering system on a 3.8L. This should increase the life of the components such as the pump and rack and pinion. For what it's worth, ($10-$15) this is a great way to maintain your power steering system. It may even give you .1 better mpg due to better lubrication and less heat created.
    Last edited by 02NavyBlue; 06-05-2014 at 09:15 PM.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
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  2. #2 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    nice work there.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    I did something similar to you. When the GM service manual was still available, I followed their instructions. It is similar in that you pull the return line, however you do not start the car, you just keep fluid in the reservoir and (wheels off the ground) you go lock to lock and it pushes the old out and new in.

    Just throwing this in there as an alternative.
    2003 Grand Prix GTP-3.5 setup, sold it, miss it
    2002 Grand Prix GT-top swap, GT1 Cam, SD Headers, 90# springs, 42.5 injectors, 3.4 pulley - sold
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  4. #4 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    I live here. 02NavyBlue's Avatar
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    I have heard of that method too, I'm not sure if there are advantages over what I did or not. Although the only difference is that my method includes starting the engine momentarily. I did a good job I'm happy with how much of the old stuff I actually got out, it's nearly all of it. Can't really get much better, unless I repeated my procedure a few more times.

    I actually followed the procedure how the Chilton manual said to do it.
    Last edited by 02NavyBlue; 06-05-2014 at 09:21 PM.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  5. #5 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    Photos re-uploaded (since imageshack self-destructed my photos) and more information/tips added, changed wording a bit for a better understanding, etc.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  6. #6 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    I guess I just read through that.. but couldn't you just unplug the main harness and turn the engine over and accomplish the same thing? All you need is the power steering pump to cycle.

    I know when I did my ps flush I did it per Gm service manual and it just has you lift the front wheels off the ground and go lock to lock. and it flushes it. no running the car.
    2003 Grand Prix GTP-3.5 setup, sold it, miss it
    2002 Grand Prix GT-top swap, GT1 Cam, SD Headers, 90# springs, 42.5 injectors, 3.4 pulley - sold
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  7. #7 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    I live here. 02NavyBlue's Avatar
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    You could, but the engine running is quicker.

    I haven't heard the no running way before. If it works I'm sure it accomplishes the same thing but not as fast. I like for it to be moving fast so any dirt or particles are stirred up and pushed out.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  8. #8 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    troof.
    some people say it does nothing, some say since it's a hydraulic system it can function better. same debate goes with brake fluid.

    personally I just like clean
    2003 Grand Prix GTP-3.5 setup, sold it, miss it
    2002 Grand Prix GT-top swap, GT1 Cam, SD Headers, 90# springs, 42.5 injectors, 3.4 pulley - sold
    2012 Chevrolet Cruze LTZ-Summit White, 1.4Turbo
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  9. #9 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    Oh well the pump needs to be properly lubricated just like an engine does. Power steering fluid additives wear out like transmission fluid does. Some pumps make a lot of noise when the fluid looses it's normal properties, and doing this flush makes it completely silent again. I've done a handful of those.

    But as far as how it's assisted, I notice no difference since as far as transmitting force goes, a liquid is a liquid. I just want to keep the pump and rack happy.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  10. #10 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    Awesome write up! I'll be doing a flush this weekend and following this guide for sure. Thanks!
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  11. #11 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    Great instructions on this overlooked procedure. I am sure not many car owners give a thought to changing power steering fluid.
    I followed your procedure in a 2002 GP with 185K. Fluid was changed one other time, about 100K.
    I have been experiencing a noisy steering pump at times. Flushing and putting in new fluid made pump much more quiet.
    Before the fluid change, I once saw some power steering fluid on floor, about a tablespoon amount. This was on the drivers side. Can't tell where the steering fluid was leaking from.
    I believe my rack may be slowing going, but I have not experienced any symptoms of bad steering, just the fluid lead which happened 5000 miles ago. I checked the level and had to add a small amount.
    The GP is a daily driver, so I have been watching for more problems to develop, but so far, so good.
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  12. #12 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    check the boot on the rack where the tie rod enters the rack, if that boot is wet the rack is on its way out. well leaking, and will fail some day in the future.

    some of that stop leak stuff may slow or stop the leak, seems like its small still.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  13. #13 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    I used lucas' stuff for power steering, one whole bottle and it doesn't seem to lose a drop anymore.

    That bottle was used over the period of a month, as it lost fluid I was topping it up with it.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
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  14. #14 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    GTP Level Member Impala131's Avatar
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    Great write-up, I plan on doing this soon. Had one question though....

    Would installing a P/S cooler provide any benefit for prolonging fluid life and performance? I doubt it's necessary, but I can get a 9C1 P/S fluid cooler from the local junkyard for next to nothing. Might be a good time to install since I'm disconnecting lines and adding fluid anyway.
    2003 Grand Prix GTP.... the journey begins again....
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  15. #15 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    Well there is a "cooler" so to say, already on the car. It's a bit of extra metal line coiled up somewhere, on mine it's under the pump at subframe level. It would be pretty easy to install a cooler being you'd put it in the suction line, and there is already rubber hose there that you could splice. But I don't know how much longer it would prolong the fluid life, it really only gets hot in the summer months here in MI. Depending on the actual temperature the fluid reaches, it may be worth it for people in places with hotter climates. Someone should stick a probe in the reservoir after a long city drive on a hot day and see what were really getting. I'm sure just like transmissions, anything above 220 is pushing it.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
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  16. #16 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    I did the flush this weekend and overall it went ... messy. I wanted to say it is imperative to route a 3/8th line extension into whatever container you choose. Since I didn't have a way to connect to my 3/8 hose extension, I just zip tied the return line to the tie rod and aimed it down into a drip pan. This work awesome until I started flushing while turning the wheel. Since the mess was already made by the time I realized what happened, I just continued making a mess until I was through the process. My recommendation: use a cardboard or tarp and make sure you have thought out your line extension and catch pan system!

    I was getting some rattling and whine the first couple times I've driven afterward but only for about a half second. I think the noise is gone now but why would that happen? I kept the fluid purges quite short (2 seconds as recommended) but I feel like I must have emptied the reservoir at some point to have it get noisy. Do I need to bleed the system in a particular way? I feel like there is slightly more general whine than there used to be but I'm likely listening more closely.

    Thanks for the writeup!!!

    EDIT: Pump and fluid were at 105k but making no noise or issues, just wanted new fluid inside.
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  17. #17 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    I live here. 02NavyBlue's Avatar
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    Yeah I could make a better point to carefully plan out the return line direction. I made a mess too lol. Funny thing is I got it on video, I should post it here as a "what not to do"

    What fluid did you use? With or without stop leak? If you used p/s fluid and it whines, you can switch to dexron III or VI. Or vice versa. I would think if it whined for a bit then stopped, air got in the system.

    Also it's common for the return line to cause a whine by letting air in the fluid, being it's the suction line. That would create bubbles in the fluid. They usually go bad on their own but disrupting it could push it over the edge. Also at that mileage I would suggest keeping an eye on the level, new fluid may leak past worn seals more than old fluid would. Luckily lucas power steering stop leak works very well. Worked for me.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
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  18. #18 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    I checked my fluid level before I started and it was exactly at the cold line. Since I can't remember the last time I even checked it, it doesn't appear to be losing any fluid. I used the O'rielly brand PS fluid that said (I think) was compatible with GM and other manufacturers. I flushed the first two bottles through per your how-to, then I had a partial bottle of Valvoline with stop-leak from when I bought the car 5 years ago or so. Luckily I had bought a bottle of conditioner because I was out of fluid at this point so I topped of with the Lucas conditioner.

    When you say Dex III or VI are you referring to transmission fluid?

    I haven't heard the loud noises anymore but maybe just a faint whine which is somewhat normal; likely because I'm listening closer now.

    I'm glad I'm not the only one who made a huge mess
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  19. #19 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    Yes Dexron is a GM transmission fluid, and a few other manufactures. It probably just had a little air in it, bleeding occurs while driving lol.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  20. #20 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
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    Thanks for posting this. Much better than taking it in. Seems do-able, even if a bit messy.
    2000 Regal GS - Stage 2 ZZP IC, Ported LIM, 3.2" pulley, F-body brakes, 3" cat-less DP, 2.5" custom exhaust, various handling upgrades, and smaller stuff.
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