How-to change lower control arms

**dsmuts** · 03-01-2013

Take it to a different shop they are probably just lazy

**REDCRAPGP** · 03-01-2013

Originally Posted by dsmuts

Take it to a different shop they are probably just lazy

This. Lazy mechanic I'm sure someone else would like to earn your money.

**Scottydoggs** · 03-01-2013

find a new shop, and do tell everyone what shop you went to so people in your area can avoid them.

**BillBoost37** · 05-22-2013

Go grade 10 or better. You are going to need a serious blade...those are hard bolts.

I'd soak the hell outta them with pb/whatever for a day and keep pounding at them here and there to free them up.

**Burbman** · 05-23-2013

Angle grinder with a cut-off wheel might work better here. I've never found a great quality metal blade for the recip saw, you may go through multiple blades sawing off these bolts.

Before that, how big of a breaker bar have you tried using?

**tdm571** · 05-26-2013

I was able to cut thru the bolt. I only dulled two blades. The size of the bolt is M14-2.00 90mm. I used a metric 10.9 grade bolt which is the equivalent of a grade 8. I also decided to upgrade the sway bar while I was at it. There's a huge difference in the tightness of the steering. Glad I did it.

**fmayo** · 07-01-2014

Originally Posted by tdm571

I was able to cut thru the bolt. I only dulled two blades. The size of the bolt is M14-2.00 90mm. I used a metric 10.9 grade bolt which is the equivalent of a grade 8. I also decided to upgrade the sway bar while I was at it. There's a huge difference in the tightness of the steering. Glad I did it.

I'm getting ready to do this job on my '06 GP base. Does anyone know all the bolt sizes for the LCA? I'd like to replace them all when I swap them out but would like to have them on hand. The car is my daily drive so I'm not running to the store once I start tearing things apart.

**fmayo** · 07-13-2014

Originally Posted by tdm571

I was able to cut thru the bolt. I only dulled two blades. The size of the bolt is M14-2.00 90mm. I used a metric 10.9 grade bolt which is the equivalent of a grade 8. I also decided to upgrade the sway bar while I was at it. There's a huge difference in the tightness of the steering. Glad I did it.

I got lucky with the PB Blaster I guess, the torx bolts came out without too much trouble. I did pick up new bolts before hand though but had trouble finding metric bolts in my area. Ended up using a 9/16" x 4" #8 bolts to replace the torx bolt. Make sure you get some good washers too so the hex head doesn't cut into the aluminum sub-frame.

**Shiftingshaddow** · 05-10-2014

i would recommend cutting the bolt that is on the front bushing of the control arm--the one closest to the front of the car--if you cant get it out with a breaker bar and and a cheater bar. i know the last post on this was a year ago, but i did this job yesterday. its not a complicated job, but i decided to read the forum this morning to see what it said as i had a heck of a time getting that bolt out. it took two hours of heating and banging on it. i actually split the end of the cheater bar i was bashing on to get this bolt out. i put the cheater bar through the top of the hood and bashed down on that bolt very hard repeatedly. the only reason i didnt cut it is because i was in the middle of nowhere and i didnt have a replacement bolt. absolutely buy the above mentioned bolt before you do this job just in case you need it while on site; and have several good sawzall blades. the factory bolt is thick and hard as is the sleeve around it (that is what the bolt is seized to).

**dsmuts** · 05-10-2014

I've done a dozen or so without having to do that but there is always that pain in the ass one lol

**Shiftingshaddow** · 05-11-2014

i did the other side today and it was easy. no issues at all. just wacky how that works. it might have been replaced at some point, though.

**Scottydoggs** · 07-01-2014

21 mm iirc. you can turn the wheels to do a check before starting the job. you will also need a torx t55 on some cars, check the bolt head for a star inside it.

**fmayo** · 07-01-2014

Thanks. Why they used a torx bolt I'll never know. Surprised too that new bolts don't come with the arm...I'm in Massachusetts and everything under there is rusted and fused.

**HighOctaneRacing** · 07-01-2014

Originally Posted by fmayo

Thanks. Why they used a torx bolt I'll never know. Surprised too that new bolts don't come with the arm...I'm in Massachusetts and everything under there is rusted and fused.

Where in Mass?

**fmayo** · 07-01-2014

I'm working in Mansfield now; just down the road from Foxboro.

**Scottydoggs** · 07-01-2014

super rust. good chance they will still be ok. wont know till you try. spray the threads, bolt heads and nuts with penetrating oil for a few days before the job. (every night) PB blaster and such. will help out in the long run.

**dsmuts** · 07-01-2014

I had no problem on my super rusty 98 with 230k miles of IN and OH winters

**HighOctaneRacing** · 07-01-2014

Too far otherwise I'd help you out lol

**fmayo** · 07-01-2014

Appreciate it...just finding this thread was a huge help. Rides an '06 with 112k so everything is starting to go. One of the rear struts died a spectacular death the other day...so that's next.

**SomeDudeAtHome** · 07-01-2014

I used this write up and it made everything SO much easier! And for the rust bolts I just used a fair amount of wd-40 and they all came off pretty easily. I have a 98 that's seen every Buffalo winter since then and they were rusty but i didn't break or have to cut anything.

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