Thread: How to pull an engine: BillBoost Style

Every engine I removed , the headers went on after the engine was in the car.
This leaves plenty of room and provides access to the rear trans bolts

You need to remove the front header, disconnect the rear header from the head and that can stay in the engine bay. Your not going to have a good time if you leave them attached.

Originally Posted by Swiggles

You need to remove the front header, disconnect the rear header from the head and that can stay in the engine bay. Your not going to have a good time if you leave them attached.

It came out with disconnecting the crossover and rear. front stayed on.

Originally Posted by Swiggles

You need to remove the front header, disconnect the rear header from the head and that can stay in the engine bay. Your not going to have a good time if you leave them attached.

Exactly how I do it every time

i too unbolted the headers, not a big deal really.

take the plugs out first so you dont break em. they are the last thing you install after it back in too.

I recommend using header bolts not the stock studs.

Originally Posted by CrazyGuy03

I recommend using header bolts not the stock studs.

if your buying new bolts, stop there and get studs, they work so much better. bolts really do suck for headers.

These ones




bonus fact - during my rebuild I misplaced these and had to reuse the OEM bolts and changing the plugs those posts get in the way
then a week later I found my header bolts

Wait I'm confused. You prefer the ones that have a stud sticking out on top of the bolt head aka OEM bolts?

Originally Posted by CrazyGuy03

Wait I'm confused. You prefer the ones that have a stud sticking out on top of the bolt head aka OEM bolts?

ask any one, studs are stronger then bolts. and you feel them tighten up much more.

studs do stick out, but for the clamping power, ill take it. this is a 6.0 1/2 the bolt heads snapped off on their own. stock crap i know, all the same tho, ill take studs.

I would only go for bolts if they were stainless... Rust sucks.

No kidding ... well shît


maybe I won't bother swapping them then

same reason you use head studs, they just clamp better.

Well to be fair to my own argument - I don't torque the piss outta the headers and anti-seize is on every bolt in my car that allows it

One word of advice is if you go ARP head bolts/studs, to check the fitment of the headers onto the heads prior to install. My pacesetters required some grinding to give room for the nuts on the studs which sit higher than the oem... Pics available if required, lol. After fitment you can and want to take them (headers) off for engine install.

This method worked flawless for me this past spring. It took me about 24 hours of labor to pull engine/trans, rebuild engine, rebuild suspension and brakes, reinstall engine/trans and run some new wires for a top-swap. Did it over a 3 day weekend with air tools.

I am in the minority but I dropped the engine/trans in with the front and rear header installed. Had to use the engine leveler and push the a/c line but it wasn't too bad. I think I had the radiator pulled too but can't remember if it was in or not at the time of install. Did a flush and clean. I remember it being a tight fit and going slow not to damage anything.

Tog headers you could leave on but it's much easier to do with out.

once again, a great help! Thanks Bill!