I plan on going with rockers once I can save up the money, I would go with a cam but Im not paying a shop to do it lol And not to sure if i can do it lol did you notice the gain in performance or at idle or anything noticable
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I plan on going with rockers once I can save up the money, I would go with a cam but Im not paying a shop to do it lol And not to sure if i can do it lol did you notice the gain in performance or at idle or anything noticable
?
You dont need to pull the s/c and lim to change the springs.
ACTUALLY my car hasnt started since the install lol, i had a crank postion sensor go out and i knew it was going out but thought id be okay and my car hasnt started since lol. But idle will not sound any different and the only gains youll really see are from IIRC 5000-6200 rpms.
then i must have read wrong, because from what i read thats a must so you dont drop a valve... you have to pull the LIM to get to top of the heads and put air through them to keep the valves from dropping.. Then how do you do it?Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
its one of those things to be safe than sorry plus youll gain a little more powere doing the springs thats y i did them plus i had a **** ton of money so i just ordered everything haha
haha^ theres the way to go
I may be wrong but cant you turn the motor to top dea center to stop the valves from falling?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchstrp
to be honest with you, idk lol. this is my first expierence with valve train.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky21
turn motor to TDC then put air in via the spark plug holes with an adapter.
Air compressor helps.
or you could do the string trick.
oh i see well thats good to know i may go back in sometime and put in bigger springs.
I wanted to add to this that you don't need to get the motor to top dead center. When I did my cam, I only pressurized the cylinders with air to hold the valves and didn't have any trouble. I bled the pressure into the cylinder slowly since it will push the piston to the bottom of the cylinder. After that it was just a few minutes to compress the spring, pop the locks out, remove the spring and retainer, replace the valve seal, and reassemble.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
that works as well.
Probably safer actually.
yea I heard something about that, probly be the easiest way. Whats the string trick?
The string trick is a nightmare if it goes bad. It's filling the cylinder with string and then turning it to hold the valve up with the string/piston.
To hold a valve closed, you simply have to add air via the right adapter (compression tester) to the cylinder through the plug hole. The top end coming off would not help hold exhaust valves. Once you've removed the rocker, the valve is basically held up and sealing the cylinder. Add air and it holds them closed.
To do rockers, say you don't want to hurt your DD and not do springs only because it's too cold. (wink, wink)... I'll leave it at that. With 1.8's you "should" be ok on stock springs.
well thanks for the input. ill consider upgrading spring.
I got a set of rocker arms from 3800Performance. They came with Comp Cams Replacement bolts. The instructions say to tighten the bolts to 11lbs & then an additional 25 degrees. Now I'm wondering, is that right??
Intense recommends 25 ft-lbs on their re-usable rocker bolts.
i looked at this vid 2 times and wonder do i have to turn the pushrods like he did
YouTube - Installing Lifters, Pushrods & Roller Rockers
no.
for our engines just torque to 25 ft lbs with re-usable bolts (they're only a dollar more than TTY ones from ZZP) and move forward.
For those engines you could just do it while its running. Might make a little mess but its simpler. Loosen till noise, tighten till no noise, 1/2 turn and move on.
wheres the sticky on this