Thread: How to: Remove an axle

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  1. #1 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I don't always extend it fully. It's more of the quick hit like Scott says.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  2. #2 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    SE Level Member red bearded goat's Avatar
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    Joined the forum to thank Billboost37 for this thread. Found it via google while doing research to change out a CV shaft because the inner boot failed on the drivers side of my 99 GP GT. I started to hear a whine between 40~50 MPH, spotted the boot was split and grease flung around the inner wheel well. I've put 148k on the clock since buying it new in 99. Figured that was the source of my GP's problem, but now not sure if it was. This is my DD and its starting to show its age.

    Bought a new replacement CV shaft from NAPA and followed the easy instructions in the 1st post of this thread. Finished the shaft swap in just under 2 hours.... only pita doing the job was removing the balljoint castle nut cotter as it took about 20 minutes to get it out (had to destroy it) and thought oh man here we go, it was a sign of things to come. But, I recently replaced the sway bar with the solid one from Summit so the end link removal was easy, along with disassembling everything in the step procedures to remove the CV shaft. The old CV shaft popped off the stub on the 2nd attempt giving the pry bar a quick jerk. Rotated the retaining ring split to the 12 o'clock position and the new shaft popped in place with little effort. The rest of the re-install took little effort and minimal sailor talk to complete.

    The cussing began on the subsequent test drive. The low pitch whine is gone but its now been replaced with a vibration when under acceleration, which disappears when I lift off the throttle. Wondering about the balance of the Cardon shafts NAPA sells, all suggestions welcome..... Thank in advance.
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  3. #3 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
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    awsome
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  4. #4 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
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    When replacing the axle or CV Joint, ensure that the spline is well seated. I thought it was seated. After finishing the job I test drove it. Everything was cool until I floored it, the spline separated and I had to redo the whole job.


    I ended up removing everything and started over at the assembly stage. Once the spline was positioned properly, I placed the wooden handle of my sledge hammer on the rubber covered end and struck it several times until it was well seated. I used caution not to damage the rubber cover. Reassembled everything, and it worked great.
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  5. #5 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
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    You there Bill?
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  6. #6 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i would think the length does not matter much, its all about that pivoting, ratchet head, and a snap of the wrist, and it was out, literally in a snap of your finger out, that fast.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    GTP Level Member Burbman's Avatar
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    Doesn't look like too much fluid coming out of the axle location...Couldn't you just put a catch can under that and insert the new axle ASAP to stop the flow? Then just top off what was lost? I just did the trans service yesterday, not looking forward to doing it again....

    Do you typically change the axles seals when you replace the axles?
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    I changed my axle seals when I replaced mine half shafts. And on my gp very little fluid came out of the shaft. Those seals are only 8 bucks apiece from the dealership so is replace em

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  9. #9 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    If the seal rips or the metal ring thingy comes off, replace the seal, they normally don't get damaged.

    I didn't replace them on mine. And hardly any fluid comes out. If you jack the car up to that whatever side you are doing is higher than the other, it will slow the leak or prevent it.

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  10. #10  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    If the seal rips or the metal ring thingy comes off, replace the seal, they normally don't get damaged.

    I didn't replace them on mine. And hardly any fluid comes out. If you jack the car up to that whatever side you are doing is higher than the other, it will slow the leak or prevent it.
    That's true only reason I replaced mine while doing the shaft was cause it was leaking tranny fluid

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  11. #11 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    GTP Level Member Burbman's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!
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  12. #12 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Fluid coming out depends on how the vehicle is sitting. If you do the passenger end, jack it higher than the drivers and you'll have minium fluid.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  13. #13 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
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    Seems like it would be easier to take off the hub bearing and just slide the axle out through the hole. Once it releases from the trans it should fold over at the CV joint so you can back it out of the hub bearing hole and drop it out. The you don't have to F with the ball joint and the tie rod and alignment. Any reason this wouldn't work? maybe not as fast as Bill's write up but I work a little each evening, I'm not a speed guy.
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    It won't fit like that. I tried it on my gp and it wasn't happening. But it didn't mess my alignment up at all!

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  15. #15  
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    I took out my passenger side cv shaft 4 times in two months trying to solve a leaking seal and got it down to a science

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  16. #16 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    If you go the ball joint route, you don't unbolt the tie rod, just swing the knuckle over and puch the cv shaft out. Then just install new one and no need for an alingment.

    Also you can take the 2 strut bolts out too and pull the knuckle down to slide the axle out. If your struts have never had camber bolts or been rounded for camber adjustments. I did it that way on my sisters car, didnt even mess with the camber, and even if it did, its such a small amount ( .1 - .2 ) that I wouldnt even worry about it.

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  17. #17 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    GTP Level Member Burbman's Avatar
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    OK thanks guys. It's up on stands with wheels, calipers, rotors and axle nuts off, picking up the axles today. Was looking at it last night and I wasn't seeing how just popping the ball joint would allow the control arm to move enough to let the axle out. I'm sure it will get a little clearer when I dig into it tonite. Figured I may as well ro the motor mount and trans mount while I'm in there, '01 with 146k miles.
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  18. #18 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Burbster, why did you pull the rotors and calipers? Oh..right you were aiming for the wheel bearing route. Since you've lived up this way before, this will probably make you smile. Most of the time the hubs have crusted up in the aluminum knuckle and that makes taking the bearing out a bearing replacement exercise. You pull the bearing and the abs ring and back of the bearing stay in the knuckle. In the process of yanking that out..you trash it.

    Cam when you pull the knuckle bolts, you mess with alignment.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  19. #19 Re: How to: Remove an axle 
    GTP Level Member Burbman's Avatar
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    I dunno....looked like they would be in the way? Was trying to do a little pre-work in advance of picking up the axles. The caliper cage is only 2 bolts and the rotor came right off, so not a lot of extra work. I just changed the RF hub bearing, like 2 weeks ago. Surprisingly, one little tap on the left side axle and it broke free of the axle splines. I noted that when I took out the old hub bearing there was grease or anti-seize on the axle splines...looks like a good trick to make replacing the hub that much easier when it fails.

    I work slow, if I did this for a living I would be one sorry broke-a$$ dude.

    Also thinking I can take some flat stock, weld up something like this to use with my slide hammer:



    3 pieces of flat stock welded in a U shape with a nut welded on the end, looks pretty simple.
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  20. #20  
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    Yea its really not that hard of a job. If u go to replacing the drivers side one its a little more difficult to pop out of the transmission. And get back in. When I did mine I removed the two strut bolts and not the lower ball joint and it worked fine for me. Just be careful putting new shaft into the transmission that u don't damage the shaft seal.

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