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03-03-2014
Well, I thought the Lucas leak fixer was going to stop the rack leak...it slowed it, but now it's leaking worse.
Time to get wrenching again.
Scottydogs, you sent a nice write-up about replacing the rack, but, I can't find it. Would you please post it again? Thank you..
Now for buying the rack and pinion. I've been told, I can replace seals and boots and be fine.
Is that a good or bad idea?
03-03-2014
Just buy the whole thing. And if you want to find his thread just click the username and go to started threads.
03-03-2014
http://www.grandprix.net/forum/ubbth...at&Number=8020 this is easier, its got pics too.
i got the two lines to the rack from under the car, some how to's say to take the master cylinder off and get them from the top, and thats just silly lol.
03-03-2014
Thanks. Now I need to figure out if it has magnasteer.
03-03-2014
Fantastic. Thanks!Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
03-03-2014
Oh yea, I'm gonna have to figure out another place to put the jack stands. The pinch points are too rusted to support the car...I think.
03-03-2014
in this pic you see that wire loom coming from the top of the tranny, if its got magnasteer there will be a plug leading from the top of the tranny to the steering shaft part of the box, you just unplug it, nothing extra.
wire and plug off the rack will be of the side of this part.
03-03-2014
heres a new rack pick, see the plug there.
03-03-2014
Thank you. PartsGeek has them for about $125.00 free shipping.
03-03-2014
thats a good price. i paid 75 for a used one lol
short of working in tight places, the hardest part for most is getting the intermediate shaft back on the new rack.
what i did was start out wheels dead straight, lock the steering wheel, do not spin it round and round or the clock spring will break.
once the old rack is out, leave the lock nuts on the inner tie rods, then measure how far in the lock nuts are, then move them to the new rack.
if your getting new outer tie rods, put the new lock nut on the inner of the new rack then side by side match them up as best you can, (you can measure them as well) same with the angle of the intermediate shaft nub on the racks angle, match it up as best you can.
when it comes to the shaft, you need someone to wiggle the steering wheel a little bit to the left and right till you can get it to slide on the new rack nub there, this is the hard part, or the easy part if your lucky.
03-03-2014
Should I replace the pump as well?
03-03-2014
id leave it if its not making any noise. if you just want to do it, do it, they are cheap, around 40 bucks. but you will need a GM p/s pulley puller. you can rent it.
03-04-2014
Upon further inspection, I believe I have a transmission leak. The level in the steering pump is staying up, but the tranny fluid is going down. Funny thing is, if I let the level stay at the add mark, it barely drops a drop.
Can anyone tell me why?
03-04-2014
What's at the add level? The cv shaft seals maybe? I know the fluid is always above the pan gasket.
03-04-2014
is the tranny leaking on the ground? if so think pan gasket, tranny cooler lines.
if nothings leaking check your coolant for a red slick of tranny fluid. the cooler may have broke inside the rad.
03-04-2014
Well, it's red, and the steering fluid level s staying put. I'll check the coolant, but, I did not too long ago, and it was clean.
03-04-2014
if your seeing drips by the rack it may be the dip stick tube leaking. its on the back of the pan near the rack.
03-04-2014
No oil in the coolant, but that pan gasket looked juicy all the way around......hell, most of the bottom of the car looks kinda "juicy."
03-04-2014
see if you can snug the pan bolts up some. dont ape them they will break.
maybe time for a good old de greasing and then a close eye if its all wet and juicy as you put it lol
03-04-2014
Yea, somebody I know suggested a good engine de-greasing..........I think I'll give the guy a call and get it done. I sure wish I had a good lift to work under.......
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