Thread: Upcoming lifter/oil pan/rear cover seal/engine mount etc. etc.

whenever doing front or rear cover work i highly suggest the first things done after removal are the wiping of the area's around the main oil galley holes with brake cleaner and lint free rags and small discs of blue tape placed over em to block em off while you scrape the gasket material off the block (cover T chain with rag, rear of crank, etc)

when scraping the gaskets i highly suggest buying a 100 pack of single edge blades and a good quality pushable blade holder. on the paper gasket youll find its easier to "slice" the gasket off than to push or cut it off...specially that damn sealant bead.....cut it like a turkey, change blades often and flip new blades over each cut to give yourself more "cut time" before the edge curl is destroyed and it no longer slices nicely.

be clean, i tend to blow 30-60$ on brake cleaner, 10 on kerosene (need a new "clean" batch for each motor) and 20 on towels and 2" blue masking tape.

that ****s cheap compared to a motor.

also get intot he habbit of never handing tools or moving things OVER a motor that open...crud stuck to the bottom of a sealant can...on a socket (you do clean your sockets beforehand right? dont want a barrel of rust from that last brake job fallin in there....

napa/most auto parts stores sell permatex stuff

Yay stuff.

As a heads up, go ahead and shake those cans up, and make sure the nozzles work ok. I got 8 cans and only 2 had usable nozzles (apparently they've had issues with them)

I contacted them and they sent me out 8 replacements, of which 4 were okay.


Just a heads up. ****ing sucked when I went to spray my first can on my prepped SD lip and it just splattered everywhere.

Wow glad I read that about the cans machinesquid. I got some touchup paint in a 2oz bottle from them, which I was happy with. Probably will at some point need some rattle cans to redo my rear bumper cover.

Hey everybody. I've got the engine out, got the rear cover off, and have a question. Why is this hole here...casting mistake?? Does it see coolant or oil? unnamed.jpg

Ready to work..photo 4.JPGsee some axle grease and leaking rack boot therephoto 1.JPGwhat my motor mount left behindphoto 2 (2).JPGmore leaksphoto 2.JPGdirty transmissionphoto 3 (2).JPGwhat's left of my motor mountphoto 4 (2).JPGmy pops directing some engine movement therephoto 1 (2).JPGlittle leakage from the rear crankshaft seal cover platephoto 5 (2).JPGlittle gasket failure therephoto 1.JPG

First day got the engine out, got the PLOG on, new crankshaft cover gasket. Broke some vacuum lines, and vacuum manifold piece as well as boost bypass valve. All plastic welded back together, should hopefully hold. New coolant elbows on, water pump replaced. Tomorrow hopefully replace supercharger coupler and oil, oil pan gasket, VC gaskets, driver CV axle, both LCA's, and rack and pinion. Who knows about getting the engine back in. Maybe by monday.

congrats

now arent you glad you yanked it out and regasketed everything? lol

by now you should have used nearly 50 of the 100 razor blades lol

Yeah. A lot. A little bit of brass wire wheel too. Now I gotta track down a knock sensor pigtail to replace the one I destroyed...

Sooo..finally the car is running again. The alignment is terrible, which it to be expected. I cut the wire bundle leading down behind the alternator to get the engine out cause I'm noobly to it and I was frustrated, and butt splice and heat taped it all back together, but now I'm getting no boost indication, a low oil pressure light, and a CEL saying no signal from my bank 1 number 2 oxygen sensor. I know i have oil pressure because i'm getting oil to my rockers and i loosened the oil filter and it shot everywhere. I also broke the oil pressure sending unit in two taking the engine out, so it has a new sensor installed, and I removed my oil filter adapter to make engine in/out easier. So it could be a bad connection or something with reinstalling that adapter. The no signal from the oxygen sensor I'm assuming also is a bad connection. The no boost indication I'm not sure of...I'm not 100 percent what sends that signal or where the wire is. I know what vacuum line it comes from and that is intact and definitely seeing vacuum...anyway. Troubleshooting more after work tomorrow. Any ideas would be awesome.

The boost thing was an easy fix, the vacuum was loose on the MAP. Everything else was a couple of crossed wires. After an alignment she drives like new.

Originally Posted by Sven Sexman

Good to hear you got it fixed. BTW, if you ever need a hand I'm not too far away.

Thanks man. I will def keep that in mind.

Finally got the shift kit in too, with a new filter and obviously transmission fluid change. With the new suspension parts, PLOG, shift kit, spark plugs, etc it's like a whole new car. Rebuilt fuel injectors on the way, Now I've gotta fix the ****ty touch up overspray, then start planning my new springs/rockers install that I got from GMR B. It'll be a few months so maybe if I'm feeling extra froggy I'll put a smaller pulley on, too. Making my car more fun to drive is addictive. I need to focus on cheaper hobbies...where's my banjo...