Thread: Code 1133

It would be great if you could tell us what you drive, mods, changes that have been made to the pcm and what code 1133 stands for.

Thanks

I used to get P1133 all the time when I installed my headers, the code stopped coming up about a month or 2 after install.

Just clear it and be on your way and see if it comes back.

Buying a new sensor wouldnt hurt either.

Typically this an O2 or O2 extension issue. If clearing it doesn't help, I'd give a new sensor a try. One thing to keep in mind is our cars somehow beat up on Bosch O2 sensors, so a Denso is probably the best priced option.

If someone has headers, often an extension is needed. Often routing isn't high on the list when excitement of headers and the first start up. Next thing you know something is burning...it's the O2 extension wiring...

Switch to a 180 thermo aswell, 160 is far too cold.

Following what vendor website says is usually not the best idea.

I don't recall any site saying a 160 thermostat is needed for mild mods or no mods.

Only if you are hot lapping the car at a track is a 160 perhaps needed. The stock knock sensor settings dont turn them on till 160º, though you have a tuned PCM, they may still be the same.

A 180 is what you swap in as the car would prefer those temps better.

If you don't tune in the lower temp t-stat then it's useless... 180 is low enough, 160 provides no benefit over the 180.

For cereal man, you dont want a 160 in there.

We know what we are saying here.

Straight from Wbodystore's website.

Which temperature thermostat should I choose? - We recommend the 180 degree thermostat for lightly modified supercharged vehicles and all naturally aspirated 3800s. We recommend the 160 degree thermostat for heavier modified supercharged vehicles in hotter climates. Most vehicles are very well suited with the 180 degree thermostat.


2004+ Vehicles should only run the 180 degree thermostat

FFDP know what he is talking about. Do you? lol

Originally Posted by JT2002GTP

Im assuming since wbody flashed my PCM and recomended The 160 I should be good.

the only way to now for sure is by reading the PCM and knowing what's programmed in there (160 fan settings).

But like said already, the 160* will do NOTHING as far as benefit goes! It's not like it will cool the engine to any significant degree... Will only open sooner allowing coolant to flow, but the engine is still going to heat up way beyond the stat settings.

Also the knock sensors are set to activate at the same temp (160*) and if/when in colder environment as I'm sure you get in OHIO, you run the risk of having the engine run at that temp without the knock sensors activated. Overall, people have done it, sure go ahead if that's what you want. But many will tell you it's to no benefit.

As for the p1133, I got it too after my header install. I believe it has to do with the location of the front O2 sensor bung in the headers. I have a high flow cat as well which i think doesn't help. Some have moved the sensor into the crossover, I have yet to try the non fouler trick, but have ability to tune it (code) out which is what I did, sorry.

Replace the O2 sensor, rockauto is your friend here, $30.
And go from there...

Good Luck!