Thread: PCV wtih an IC (Spade and Sin..get in here)

Ok, there was a very good discussion happening in chat and I'd like to see it discussed in a thread to get more insight and understanding. It's a common issue/concern.

Ok guys.. post it up.

Well, Pure is questioning running 2 front valve covers, which I disagree with, because the motor rocks towards the rear and a filler neck or oil cap backthere could leak, causing oil on the rear headers, which could result in engine fire and total loss of the vehicle.

Yes.. so a little background..

Typically a different pcv solution is looked for when an IC blocks the factory pcv holes. ZZP puts a groove into the LIM to allow it to function. However many think that groove isn't deep enough to do the job. Expecially when you are spinning faster, quicker etc. The crankcase pressure can jump quickly and that groove is viewed as not being large enough to handle the volume of pressure that is built up. Some guys tap valvecovers etc.

Now that I'm thinking more about that, it should work. I personally would RTV the heck out of the valve cover you put in the rear to prevent leaks and treat it as if it were a rear (as far as never planning on using the cap).

I do see a problem tapping the cap due to clearance of the PCV valve like PRJ said in that thread, location is key. I would use the filler neck for the added clearance necessary to make that work.

If you are pulling the valve cover though.. why not tap into it and leave the added height of the cap/neck out of the equation. Seems like it would look cleaner w/o the cap/neck.

If you look at an oil cap...The neck is pretty long:

I would think it would clear also because the grommet actually makes the PCV valve sit up higher because of the rubber.

Have any of your locals done write-ups? I'd be interested.

Why do you need to add oil to the rear head? The oil that was sitting on the head when the motor was turned off is still there, except for the oil that drained to the pan, like every other time you turn it off.

How would tapping the valve covers work with Aluminum? There has to be a more effective way.

Aluminum..plastic..whatever. It's tappable.

Tapping a $450 set of PRJ Aluminum Valve covers sounds like something requiring a lot more precision than I have.

Brian it wouldn't matter if it was plastic, aluminum, steel or wood, you can tap anything. And the valve covers aren't thick material anyway. What are they, like 1/16" thick? You're not going to have many threads to catch on at all. I say a grommet would work best in this situation.

Originally Posted by Explicit_Spade

sounds like something requiring a lot more precision than I have.

Do you sit down to pee?

sorry...well almost... it's funny though..you know you're laughin.

... I'm laughing..

sseilmnop on here put up this how to a bit ago: http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-g...her-44478.html Will that not work, it seems a bit simpler?

ZZP, WBS , and my intercooler have provisions for the Rear port to work through the intercooler. The rear port is where the crankcase air is coming up out of the engine, through the intercooler, through the supercharger and through the PCV and into the intake side of the supercharger. 1 hole must be drilled in LIM for this to work.! This one hole would mean that you don't have to modify the rear Valve cover.



The front hole is the problem! This is where you want metered air (measured air) to fill the crankcase. This air should come from between the Throttle Body blade and the MAF and connect to the crankcase somewhere. I drilled the extension tube for the oil cap on my setup. Air in the front and pulled out the back.