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10-25-2011
Looking for tips on how to replace steel brake line that goes from brake control module toward right front wheel.
It follows a path from module downward, bends up over exhaust pipe & then goes downward again & over to bracket on right front side of car 'frame'.
Last edited by matt5112; 10-25-2011 at 10:55 PM. Reason: So we can read.
10-25-2011
disconnect both ends of the line, pull of the car, bend new piece to match
its easy, just a p.i.t.a.
10-25-2011
Don't post in caps, takes longer to read.
Please read the thread section description carefully before posting a new thread there. I've moved this thread to the correct section for you.
Please take the time to type things out fully, especially in thread titles. Makes it easier to understand and easier for others to find this thread later.
I suggest you follow the instructions posted by redlinepontiac.
I also suggest coated brake line and a quality flare tool.
Best of luck.
10-25-2011
I purchased a genuine gm replacement line that is bent as original.
Do you replace the line from the unserside of the car of from the top side? If from the undersid, do i need to lower the engine cradle to make room?
10-25-2011
i also highly suggest this. it will save alot of headachOriginally Posted by matt5112
10-25-2011
more from the side of the car, no you dont need to drop the cradle.
10-25-2011
Make sure the fitting on the ABS valve body is not corroded.
It might strip and then things will get pricey.
10-25-2011
Thanks. Do you mean feed the line from the drivers side of the car, over the exhaust pipe toward the rf wheel & then feed the other end up to the control module. There is no corrosion where the line connects to the ABS module.
10-26-2011
1. qualtiy double flaring tool is a must
2. put the ends on the line before you flare.(this one is big)
3. a tubing bender will help as well as things like coffee can or jar etc to get nice bends.
10-26-2011
feed from the pas side to the abs.
10-26-2011
He has the OE line from the dealer.
Thats good.
How much did that line run you? Just curious.
10-26-2011
The line is pt 10335973 & comes complete with the insulator & wire protective wrapping. I'm in Canada where things rust!!! list was $71. My GM employee price was 56.80 plus tax.... US prices will be less for sure..
Still looks like a real problem to install. Has anyone ever actually done this job? I don't think I have received a real descriptive R&R process yet.
10-27-2011
ive done it. i bent and flared my line on the car. a lift helps.
but raise car and support with jack stands.
remove pasenger side tire.
unclip line from firewall.
unbolt line from ABS.
unbolt line from soft brake hose at clip end.
feed line out tire well.
reverse for new line and then bleed line.
better?
10-28-2011
I did get the new line in last night. Removing the old line from it's retaining clips was difficult because of where they are. Getting the prebent OEM part installed is impossilbe without bending it out of it's prebent state.
The fault in the GM design is that the brake line lies next to the insulation on the driver side firewall. The insulation holds moisture that rots the line. Other than that 3" long spot the line looked as new. I did not re-install the clip in this area so the new line does not touch the insulation.
Thankfully I has access to a 2 post hoist.
10-28-2011
the line is supposed to have its own sleeve as well.
It DOES go right over top your downpipe which gets pretty hot.
10-31-2011
Yes, the OEM line did have the insulating sleeve on it as well.... All installed along with fresh rotors & pads & mobil 1 oil change.... 2001 SPECIAL EDITION....
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